acfortier

Yeah, this probably makes the most sense. I'll have to see if I can track down the grounds and improve them. Interesting. To me, the way it moves, it doesn't seem like it's actually gas sloshing around, but like an electrical issue. Like it's reading one second, and not the next. I tried to take a video of it going back and forth, but of course, as soon as I started recording, it wasn't doing it, lol

Replaced the thermostat, housing, and radiator hoses the other day. Coolant was extremely rusty, but that’s really it, so I guess that’s a good thing? Got everything connected, and started to fill the radiator back up, turned it on to get the thermostat to open—it just wouldn’t stay running. Even giving it throttle to rev higher, it was just running poorly and died on me like several times. Never had an issue with it running, so not sure what was going on—let it sit for like 5 mins and tried starting it again, and it idled like it had before, no issues. We did run it out of gas (oops) so maybe something got sucked up? Really odd. Anyways, got up to temp, put in more water/coolant until it wouldn’t take anymore. Unfortunately, the coolant turned back to its rusty color, even from what I did add. Never dealt with rust this bad, so I’ll have to do some research. Another things, the temp gauge in the cluster reads incorrectly. When the thermostat finally opened, it was at the very end of the green portion, pretty much on H. If you turn the key to RUN after it’s been sitting/cold, the temp gauge will shoot up more than halfway. I also noticed that the gas gauge was “waffling” after I put a quarter tank in—it’d move from a quarter tank back down to its resting spot (which is way below E) and then move back again rapidly. I’m thinking it’s a bad ground on the cluster, which I haven’t taken out yet. I did buy a spare because the clock is missing the knob to change the time (broke off of mine) and that would annoy me if I didn’t have it, lol.

No worries--I have the vacuum lines tucked close to the transmission, so I'm hoping they won't move and get sucked in by the driveshaft, lol

Thanks. @89 MJ might want to snag it? Now, I actually figured out what I need--a starter relay from a 1989-1991 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. This will allow me to keep the function of the NSS with the newer style starter that has the solenoid on the starter itself, and will allow me to connect to the coil/dizzy. 33003934 seems to be the part number... any NOS for that @eaglescout526?

OK, so I think if I replace my current some-what useless starter solenoid with this: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHSR3?impressionRank=4 I'll have a similar setup as above, and should be golden?

Hmm, with the new starter, since the solenoid is actually attached to the starter, I don't think hooking up the NSS to the correct starter solenoid with the ground post will actually make a difference. Here's the diagram for an '88 MJ, which is the same starter I currently have: The NSS grounds through a starter relay, which I assume is just a standard 5 pin relay? So I'll need to put a relay in between the new starter solenoid and the old one (that has the 12V+ from ignition) in order for the NSS to work correctly... @eaglescout526, may not need that NOS starter solenoid after all?

You've convinced me... let me know if it's something that you can get @eaglescout526. I also definitely need a thermostat, which I'm 99% sure is the same as the one in the 4.0. Jury is out if the temp. gauge is bad, or the temp. sensor is.

$28 from O'Reilly's... heh

Yeah, it's probably the same starter solenoid across a multitude of vehicles. I'm not bothering with NOS for this, for the most part... but it is tempting, lol.

I wonder if someone bypassed that one, too. Lol. Yeah, it's kinda rats-nest-y but it's not terrible. Most connections are intact--there's an orange wire there that was cut at some point, so not sure what that goes to, if anything.

I'm glad I took it! Apparently, the magic combo is torque converter, flexplate + starter. Can't mix and match from pre-'88 and post-'88 (apparently, this was when they swapped starters to the newer style). So, had a new NSS and newer style starter in hand, started to tackle the rest. My stepdad was able to put the transmission cooler fitting on (that he broke) yesterday. I swapped out the NSS no problem, then removed the old starter. Here's a picture of the old style starter that was installed: As you can see, just has the one post for the cable to connect to. Here's the newer style starter that I got: Which has the extra post. Since my Eagle uses a Ford style 4-terminal starter solenoid, I realized I need to jump the ignition switched 12V to that post down on the starter now. Had to run back out to get some ring terminals, and was able to connect it up and see if I resolved my ability to crank the engine in any gear... aaaaaand still able to crank in any gear, and no reverse lights. So clearly, there's something going on. Got a test light, was getting 12V to the correct terminal at the NSS. Perfect. Taking a look at a diagram, it seems that the middle terminal of the NSS is blue w/ tracer that connects back at the starter solenoid. OK, cool--was just looking at that: (Ignore the Romex in there. Apparently a PO used it to wire up a subwoofer/amp in the trunk... wild lol). So, big terminal on the left side goes to the battery, big terminal on the right side goes to the starter, small terminal towards the bottom (green wire and the red one I added) is the ignition 12V+, and the top is the "I" which one wire goes into the cab (uhhh?) and the other to the dizzy. No sign of any blue w/ tracer... I took a crap photo, but you can see it off on the right, and it had a right-angle plug on it. Clearly someone bypassed the NSS at some point in time. Wonderful. Here's a picture of the starter diagram for the 6 cyl: So, let's hook it back up--there should be a ground post for the NSS to connect to... except... there isn't. Someone replaced the starter solenoid with a manual transmission one, which grounds through the bracket, which seemingly bypasses the NSS. GREAT! I have a feeling that someone was chasing down a no crank situation, as the original NSS in the car was chewed up/rubbed down internally, decided to replace the starter solenoid in a troubleshooting attempt or did it to bypass it completely. Not a huge deal as I doubt the inspector would actually test the functionality of the NSS, but still no reverse lights. I *think* it's independent of the NSS actually working, but didn't have a chance to troubleshoot further. Will need to put the car in reverse, run an alligator clip from the NSS connector to the correct pin on the NSS, then use a test light to see if the other pin has 12V at it. If it does, there's a downstream wiring issue (bulbs could theoretically both be out?). If not, then the NSS is bad (which seems unlikely since it's brand new). I do think I will probably replace the starter solenoid with the correct AT version instead of the MT one they installed. Here's what it should look like: There's that spark-plug looking ground post. Here's what I have now: No ground post. So I assume if I get the correct solenoid, and plug in the NSS plug, it'll work as intended. The bracket on the solenoid with the ground post must not be a ground, like it is for the solenoid for a MT. Either way, it's not a real blocker, let's see if she runs and drives! Filled up the T/C all of the way, and put 5 qts in the transmission. Got it started, put it in gear, let the wheels spin (was still up in the air at this point), and got it warm. Decided we should take it for a spin around the block to make sure everything is OK. As I was lowering the front, my stepdad noticed that while in Park, the rear wheels were still spinning. Huh, odd. He shut it off before we continued to lower it down. He asked about the bolt that holds the shifter rod in place, if it was ever tightened. I couldn't remember, so I checked--it was tight, so should be good. Continued to lower the vehicle down, and went to go back it out to take it for a spin... ...when we realized that while in "Park" (according to the shifter), it is actually in reverse. And so on and so forth--until it reached 1/2 and it wouldn't go any further. Need to adjust the shifter rod back more, if possible--it was at the end, so will have to take a closer look. Anyways, we could still put it in R, N, and D, so we took it for a spin, started to slip going between R and D before we got out of the driveway, so added some more fluid, and took it around the block. It lives! No issues with slippage at all, and no major problems with what we've changed so far. Thanks again @jpnjake for the transmission--it works beautifully. Oh, also--the exhaust was pretty much cut off around the T/C and had been blowing directly on the now-mangled speedo cable, so instead of risking more heat-related issues, I bought a 90 degree elbow to turn it down right past the crossmember. And I mean right past--it was a tight fit. Found out the the thermostat housing and upper radiator hose were both leaking, but have both parts (one already here, another on the way). I think the coolant temp. sending unit is also bad--the gauge cluster shows it 3/4 of the way up in the green section no matter what. That was it for the night, but the list gets somewhat shorter!

Compared the two starters. The 4.2L starter definitely engages further into the transmission than the 4.0L. It might actually work, if the gear is physically long enough, or it could overshoot the flexplate. Either way, I got the 4.0L starter since I don't want to risk messing up the flexplate I have, lol

Honestly, $10k really isn't that bad for it... Looks to be in great shape.

No rush! Thanks.

Hmm, I think the answer is yes, according to this thread: https://forums.amceaglesden.com/index.php?topic=43513.0 Seems like the 4.0 flexplates are 3/8" closer to the engine, so there could be an engagement issue using the start from the 4.2L. I'm going to go to the parts store to compare the two tomorrow.

So, I'm putting a 32RH from a '92 YJ in my '86 Eagle. Eagle has the 4.2L, a '92 YJ would have had the 4.0. I had to use the flexplate from the YJ since the one in the Eagle had some damaged teeth. The YJ one has the tone ring for the CPS, but it's obv. not needed for the Eagle. Do I need to replace the starter as well?

Tackled some more stuff today. * Replaced all 4 u-joints on both driveshafts * Figured out the transmission cooler lines are 1/4 NPT. Had to scramble and find two 1/4 MPT to 1/8 FPT so that my 6AN to 1/8 NPT fittings would work. Unfortunately, after creating the new lines and routing them, my stepdad tightened down one too much and it broke. Luckily I had already ordered more 6AN to 1/4 NPT fittings, and should be here tomorrow. Just have to screw it in and we'll be good. * Put on the wheels and tires. It looks AWESOME! * Re-attached the vacuum actuator to control the 2WD/4WD. Although, I'm not 100% positive I've got it correct. It seems the vacuum lines could just fall off the actuator, or might come in contact with the driveshaft? @89 MJ, any chance you can snag me a picture of your transfer case vacuum shift actuator-thingy? * Still couldn't get the NSS connector on the short-style NSS, so decided to just splice the new one on since that one went on easily. However, getting a weird issue--after getting it all connected, I was able to crank the engine in any gear, and the reverse lights didn't come on in reverse. I guess it's possible it's no good, so going to try to get a replacement for tomorrow. Wow, after writing that list, I realize that we wasted a ton of time going store to store to try and find the correct AN fitting or something else that would work, LOL So, hopefully tomorrow, put in new fitting, fill with fluid, and see if she moves!

Got a lot of catching up to do... Haven't had a chance until this weekend to dive into the tranny swap due to house projects. Now that it's colder, of course it's time to work out in an unheated garage! LOL Purchased a handful of things since the last update: Replacement headlamp buckets since mine are chopped up. Found someone on FB marketplace who was parting an Eagle out, seems like they run a business doing this sort of thing. www.AllUsedTruckParts.com Tires! Got a set of 215/65R16 General Grabber A/TX (my new favorite tire) while they were running a $100 off rebate. Oil dipstick + tube for a 4.0, since they don't make them for a 4.2 and I don't currently have one. Should just need a little modifying to work. Bunch of misc. seals, ujoints, hoses, etc. Nothing too exciting. I'm terrible at taking pictures while I work, and not too keen on using my phone since my hands get absolutely destroyed by dirt and grease, but a rough order of operations: * Replaced input seal for transfer case. Didn't bother taking apart the yokes and replacing those seals while the unit was on the bench, since they're easy enough to drop a u-joint and replace them in the vehicle * The replacement T/C didn't have the studs to connect to the transmission, so had to use the double nut method to remove 4 of the 6 from the old to put them on the new. Got everything bolted on and in place, then moved on to the transmission. * Replaced the input and output seals on the transmission. * Dropped the pan on the bench and drained the fluid. Man, was it milky! I guess it's to be expected sitting out for all that time. Got out as much water/milky fluid and replaced the filter and gasket. * Mated the transmission and T/C together on the bench then moved it to car * They don't make direct replacement transmission mounts for these anymore. BUT, the Anchor 2921 is pretty similar--the only difference being it has studs instead of just holes to connect it to the crossmember. Just had to grind down the welds and smash out the studs, and it was ready to be used. At this point, we were jacking it up and attempting to align it to mate it to the engine, when we realized that some of the teeth on the flexplate were worn down. Greeaaaatttt... "While we're here" was our attitude, so we took off the old flexplate, and put on the flexplate that came with the transmission I got from @jpnjake. The only difference being the old flexplate didn't have the section for the CPS to work, and the new one did. Don't think it'll really matter anyways? The new flexplate was solid so we threw it on. * Figured out which bolt went where, got everything connected. Had a b*@ch of a time getting the transmission crossmember lined up, but some physical coercion got it where it needed to go. * The NSS on the old transmission was the long style, the one on the new was the short style, but the plug didn't seem to want to go on the short style. Before I did some research (they are swappable), I removed the old NSS, knowing that it would connect to that, but there was an issue with the sensor and was ground down a bit from something and wouldn't spring back if I pressed on it, so not going to use that. May buy a pigtail tomorrow and see if I can get the short style to connect, or just splice in a new pigtail. Easy enough. * Also realized I needed to change the shift/kickdown linkage on the new transmission to the linkage from the old transmission... after it was already in the car. Ugh. That took some time, but was able to get it done, and that's where we left it for the night. Going to tackle it some more tomorrow, hoping for at least: * Replace u-joints on driveshaft and connect * Fill transmission + T/C with fluid * Swap wheels Then see if she runs!

No worries! I'll keep an eye out

@ghetdjc320 are you planning on making/selling these? Washed my turbines today and one of mine blew off, lol

Did you buy it? Cause if you don't, I'm extremely tempted to own one of these rare diesel MJs...

I plan on getting my '91 repainted and would love to have the correct replacement decals. I wonder if they'd be willing to make them.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/562716058999926/?hoisted=false&ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Aab010935-37ef-4701-b8c1-830c4bac18d3

I got my set of turbines powder coated about a year ago. Haven't driven that much, but they seem to be holding up. If anything, I've neglected to clean them, and it's evident by the amount of brake dust visible on the fronts, lol.

I feel like any Max Tow package usually requires an auto. I know it's true for today's Gladiator. Doesn't surprise me it was required back then.