JeffN

the fan won't kick on till it is around 230 degrees i think, or if the A/C is on or defroster (which turns the compressor on). I believe only trucks with A/C came with an aux fan

Buy both and use the rusted one to convert the better one to 4WD

if you bent a pushrod you may have bent the valve, run a compression test on the cylinder to confirm

Distributor is probably not set to number one cylinder and the last person probably put them on where it worked, set it on top dead center and see where the rotor button points. It should point to the number one cylinder.

Mine does the same thing, new wheels/tires and a new alignment. It is not the death wobble people have, just a vibration over 60. I am thinking i may have a ujoint or bent driveshaft issue. I am hoping to check it out today and will report back

clean and tighten battery cables

If it is a manual it won't have a neutral safety switch, I am not sure if it has a clutch switch or not.

I'm not sure it could be done without tons of work, you distributor is what sets the timing and on a dis system the pcm controls the spark, i am not sure if you could even put a camshaft sensor in the engine for the pcm to know the timing, it would require a pcm that was designed for dis.

if it's loose in the knuckle then you will most likely have to replace said knuckle and i would go with a new tie rod end to make sure it isn't going to fit the new knuckle loose. Of course you could try some JB weld to fill the gap although i would never do that.

If there is slop there the only thing to do is replace the tie rod end, and you should do it as soon as possible.

if you can still get some power to the battery put power to it and make a rod that you can use a wooden wedge, pry door frame at the top just enough to get a coat hanger down to push the unlock button. http://www.amazon.com/Access-Covers-Rem ... 839&sr=1-4

http://www.compperformancegroupstores.c ... e=A6CAMSHE

Should wire to the negative side of the coil, speed sensor is for speedometer

Do you have lights? Alot of stuff could be wrong besides the starter motor. check to make sure you have good power to the starter from the battery. Get a multimeter, test light or power probe and make sure you have power at the starter solenoid when someone turns the key to crank, don't just go throwing parts at it until you find those key things.

2nd the silverstars, made a huge difference at a low cost

full reading is usually a ground problem

I have Dick Cepek DC2 wheels and they have a bit more offset than stock. I love them and my truck is 2WD

Seems he used a 97 seat search.php?st=0&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&keywords=dakota+seat&start=15

Some people have put Dodge Dakota seats in and love them

are you using LED lights? if so they may not pull enough power to activate the flasher modules and you would have to go with a digital flasher

NEVER unhook the battery cable while the engine is running, it could spike and destroy electronics, vehicles without ECU's you could

Do they come on solid? If so there are 2 flasher modules in that vehicle, one for 4 ways and one for turn signals.

just pull fuel pump relay next time

I noticed that my wheel is dead on at certain times and off just a bit at others, I have found it to be the road and the amount of crown it has built into it for water drainage. Easy way to test is if your in the right lane and you have to put some left pressure on the wheel, move to the far left land and see if you have to compensate the other way.

low fuel pressure can cause it to go real lean and detonate and that is very bad