Chico

K Pete. I have an 88 LWB 4.0 auto. Do you know what size tank I have and a good place to get one?

Sold Dr.T Please PM your info.

The parts guy at my dealership laughed at me when I told him I needed parts for my Comanche the first time. The second dealership I called kept giving me an attitude when I kept asking for parts. So I went back to first dealership and once again asked for parts nicely.The first parts guy laughed again and told me to "trade my POS in for a Hundai ." So I found this forum and took care of the parts guy. Anyway, if you gotta deal with the dealer get ahold of BLHTAZ on this forum. Nice guy, works for a dealer, and got me a part that nobody around my area could get.

Well I don't want the free ones because there are only two. i'm looking for four, So Dr Thunder if you have 4, I'll buy them from you.

I have one.

Does it still do this after the car has warmed up and been running for a decent while or just when you start and the engine is cold.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... /115975107

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... /115975248

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... 8/42027626

u got it

I was bidding. Six days ago when my max bid was $25. Then again, I don't need taillights.

Start checking every wire. Something probably melted together and it's only gonna get worse the more you drive it.

That's a good question. Someone please answer because I'm probably going to have the same problem when I do mine.

Wait are you talking about the two holes coming out of the valve cover not counting where you put the oil in?

No Ricky, he's asking about everything under the valve cover connected to the rest of the engine.

Pm'd you. Look under EngineSpecifications CAMSHAFT Hydraulic Tappet Clearance Zero Lash Bearing Clearance 0.025 0.076 mm (0.001 .0.003 in.) Bearing Journal Diameter No.1 51.54-51.56 mm (2.029 - 2.030 in.) No.2 51.28-51.31 mm (2.019 - 2.020 in.) No.3 51.03-51.05 mm (2.009 - 2.010 in.) No.4 50.78-50.80 mm (1.999- 2.000 in.) Base Circle Runout 0.03 mm- max. (0.001 in. - max.) Camshaft Lobe Lift 6.43 mm (0.253 in.) Valve Lift 10.29 mm (0.405 in.) Intake Valve Timing Opens 15°BTDC Closes 75°ABDC Exhaust Valve Timing Opens 59°BBDC Closes 31°ATDC Valve Overlap 46° Intake Duration 270° Exhaust Duration 270° Copyright © 2008 ALLDATA LLC Terms of Use

JT, let me know if this helps you. http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V ... 3/34853860

I didn't ask him about the valves but I'll ask tomorrow. I don't know if he'll know because he's a ASE VW mechanic, but I'll ask. Eagle should know. Let me look at my FSM and I'll get back to you.

Jt, I just talked to a mechanic that told me that you shouldn't try to clean it with anything because he says anything you use might fall into the engine, drop to the oil pan, get sucked up by the oil pum, clog it and cause you more problems than you want. That's his advive if your not going to dismantle the engine. Sorry. Hope that helps a little.

I think that if the coolant is squirting into the overflow bottle the waterpump should be working. He might have a clog in one of the lines or the radiator. I think you're supposed to run a garden hose into one of the lines to check. Don't quote me though because I'm definitely not a mechanic. If you run a search in the tech section a lot of posts have been put up about flushing the system and bleeding it. Good luck

Don't rush man, BLHTAZ said he might be able to get me one 2morrow. Thanks anyway for the help Jeff :cheers:

Jeff, where did you get that MAT sensor? I can't find it at NAPA or Autozone. Neither one says they carry it.

Ok, BLHTAZ, so do thbe rest of us get your discount too? :brows:

I'll take them if they are in good condition.

Jeepco I'm not sure about the 2.5 but the 4.0 the coolant temp sensor to the ECU is located in the engine coolant jacket on the driver's side of the block, underneath the exhaust manifold