Chico

Got it. Thanks MV :cheers:

You mean instead of putting the heater on full blast?

Yup CW, got that. I read to get it to run thru that valve I'm going to have to have the heater on full blast. Here's my plan of action because I want to make sure I get all the crap outta the system. 1)Attach the T-fitting in the heater hose that runs into the heater core. 2) Drain fluid out of my plastic tank, then add Prestone Coolant flush sollution. 3)Close everything up and run the engine till it hits operating temperature to loosen up all the crap in the system that's accumilated after 20 years. 4) Let the coolant cool back down a bit. 5)Attach my garden hose to the T-fitting on my heater hose. 6)Turn on the garden hose with the cap off my plastic tank. 7) Turn on the engine with the heater on full blast and watch crap fly out of my tank. 8) Once all that comes out is clear clean water, shut off the truck and then the hose. 9)Disconnect both upper and lower radiator hoses and let water drain from the system. 10)Send water from the upper radiator hose thru to bottom to make sure the radiator has a good flow. 11) At this point I'm replacing my heater hoses, heater valve, plastic tank will be replaced by an aluminum one with another hose being run to a resorvoir tank (like Eagle's and PIKE.) converting me to an open system. 12)Zip evrything back up and add 50/50 mix. So, anyone think I should do anything else or do things differntly to make sure there is nothing bad (rust, corrosion, bubblegum) left in the system to hinder the flow of coolant?

What 's the best way to flush the coolant passages going thru the engine to make sure absolutely nothing is in there?

No problem.... Thats just her way of trying to get that ring from me... ;) Just do what I did. Get her the rock and everytime she brings up the wedding date thing go, "yeah sure honey, but it's gonna have to wait till next week. I gotta go fix the truck right now!" :D

Damn it people start voting, we're behind 39 votes and loosing to Erin :rotfl2:

I voted, but what up with the single mom thing? Sorry, it's really none of my bussiness :oops:

That looks like an ignition coil for a wrangler. This is what a MAT sensor looks like. I got mine from BLHTAZ.

Hey in the melee, Did ya ever get this fixed bra?

Damn it man, quit spending your money!!! oops sorry, that's my wife talking right now :D

What color is your interior?

OK, the wire coming out of the bottom of the brake switch on the pedal goes to the steering culumn. If you're under the culumn there is a conector on the passenger side. The wire closest to the steering wheel is where the wire is spliced to. On my coonector the color of the wire is white. I had to buy it brand new from NAPA because my original one melted, so I don't know if that's the stock color. Let me know if that helps or if you need something else.

Would be the wire that lights up the tail lights when you hit the brake? I did basically the same swap (92xj to 92mj) and also had to run a wire to the steering column. Even with a fsm around it took a while to figure out what the problem was and how to fix it. That one I think went somewhere behind the fuse box. To be honest it was a disaster. All is working now though. Like I said I'd have to look at it all again but if anyone needs help, let me know.

No convertor cause I've never even heard of it. If you want I can go wire by wire showing where everything went. One of the wires actually ends up getting sent thru the connector on the steering culumn. :nuts: The only reason I got it working right was because I called this little old man that lives on top of a hill smoking weed all day. He can't help anymore, deader than a door nail :cry: Let me know if you need help. You only live 30 minutes from me if you need to actually see it. I'm right off the turnpike on the west side of the Sesquahana river. (I have no idea if I spelled that right.)

:roll: I think he's passed out now................ :nuts: That's funny. He had a couple posts over a couple threads that started getting, how you say in your country, not so nice. But I just read over his 26 posts and he seemed like a nice guy. Must be to much Bud Light Lime. Damn you BLHTAZ :laughin:

Here we go again, (Rocky's theme song is playing in the background) Hey Ex, I don't even think Motion posted anything on this thread. :nuts: Did ya mean to post this somewhere else?

Chico........Is that in case your steering column "fires" up again :teehee: That and crazy ex-girlfriends still carrying long forgotten gripes :rotfl2:

Yep, that way I'm in no way forced to give anyone a ride :rotfl2:

Did you get the front end alligned?

Yeah, well I started blowing coolant out of the top of the expansion tank and I hit it with the laser thermo again and the outside of the thermostat housing is reading 217* to 225*. The engine bay is noticeably hotter now and due to the lack of carpet/insulation I can feel every degree :headpop: :grrrr: Anyway, the system's not under pressure anymore so I'm sure that's one cause of my engine running hot. What's upsetting though is that this is my 3rd plastic tank bottle with the same issue causing me to believe that maybe, just maybe, I might have a blockage problem somewhere. Anyway the good news is ,all that's left in the coolant system if this doesn't work out is a new radiator and waterpump :brows: And hey MV, thanks fer cutting in, I was starting to get cotton mouth. :D

Ordered some parts today for my cooling issue. From Teamcherokee.com Heater conrol valve= $39.95 http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/847.html Heater hoses w/tee= $84.95 http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/1763.html From Mac's Aluminum expansion tank= $122.00 http://www.macsradiator.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=28&HS=1

We're pretty much up to date. A couple current problems have popped up. Problem #1: The truck is running above 210* but under 225*. Possible solutions include flushing out the system replacing hoses and changing out my plastic expansion tank for an aluminum one. We'll see how that goes. Problem #2 When I went to remove the carpet to replace the interior parking brake cable I found an extreme amount of rust. As I pulled out the carpet a couple of pieces of the floor board went with it. :headpop: Haven't decided yet but it's either going to get fixed with POR-15 and tape, or new pieces will be welded on. I'll post pics in a while.....

Sometime early 2008. New exhaust manifold Down pipe exhaust manifold, gasket egr valve, gasket, and related crap June 2008 New rear shoes, springs, wheel cylinders and parking brake cables.

Here's a pic of the cluster with the gear shift indicator cut out. I'm actually changing it back and adding what Hornbrod has on his.

Looked pretty good. Auction ends, I show up with the money and everything is not as described. The new paint job I believe was done with a roller. The interior looked well worn (it was to be expected) but what really killed me was the smell of $#!& that came with it. Oh well, I took it home and started my project. August 24, 2007 Before I found this site I took my cars to a couple differnt mechanics. I dropped the truck of with one and told him to give it a good look over. Front calipers were on upside down. Both front brake lines were replaced. Passenger front u-joint was shot. Both were replaced. Transfer case fluid replaced. Transmission flushed, pan removed, no debris was found. Replaced filter kit, cleaned pan and system refilled. There was a noice coming from the front of the engine. Harmonic Balancer replaced. September 20 2007 The $#!& hit the fan. The PO had the horn wired to a seperate button on the dash because the original was not working. What actually happened was that the wires in the steering culumn got old and lit up. This burnt the whole interior and under harness to one big plastic and wire mess :headpop: A used harnes was pulled out of a 1988 Cherokee. Dismantling and instalation took me close to 100 hours :eek: I can probably do it again in 5. The only set back was that the connect on the interior harness that goes to the fuel pump and rear lights is differnt causing me a good week of headaches trying to splice wires. Replaced part of the rear brake lines after a section blew. Replaced all exterior light bulbs. September 26 2007 Truck is back on the road. DW has appeared. Steering box was adjusted due to play in steering wheel. Found the track bar was junk. New track bar. September 27, 2007 Vibs are still there. Found out front brakes were locked up. New master cylinder. October 24 2007 Replaced all the emission hoses with parts from NAPA. (I'm going to switch em out again. I don't like the quality) Put in a full gauge cluster. Changed the temp sender on the back of the head. Added the oil pressure sender by the filter. November 2 2007 New TPS, adjusted it with instuctions on CC. New O2 sensor. November 8 2007 New spark plug wires Distributer cap Rotor Spark plugs November 28 2007 Went to replace thermostat and found there was none. :nuts: New thermostat. New CTS New Knock sensor December 1 2007 Replaced 6 relays in the engine bay December 4 2007 New electric fan switch December 10 2007 New CPS January 14 2008 New injectors from Precision Auto January 21 2008 DW's back. Balanced the tires. Found two wheels to be bent causing the vibes. January 28 2008 New MAP sensor New MAT sensor February 16 2008 New Monroe sensa-trac shocks March 14 2008 Bought a set of used wheels from LEAD not FOLLOW. Had the truck alligned and wheels balanced. No more DW. :D Here's the pic