lostissues

is it the factory alarm? can you look under the dash and see if there are any aftermarket looking things. if there is something there you should be able to remove all the related wiring and hook back up anything that was cut and you should be good.

Spelling is automatically and continuously checked in Firefox. :D (I sometimes have to tell it where new text boxes are, but it's very good at remembering after that) So there's no way to do it with IE? http://www.iespell.com/ just install, then r-click in text and click spell check

it doesn't look the best but all that means its time for a new bumper

splitting the remote turn on will be fine for both amps. you will not need a capacitor, if you do find you have problems with your lights dimming you can either: replace your battery with a better one, upgrade your big 3 (google search will give good results on how to do this) or invest in a high output alternator. what are the true RMS ratings of your amps?

So far this thread has addressed most of the questions I was planning on asking when I (attempt to) remove my bed. Is there any chance that someone could take new pics with exactly where the bolts are on the bottom of the bed and on the frame rails? both long bed and short bed. and also post up what you guys used when the factory bolts/studs broke off? and then we could have an official wright up and that would be a Huge help to people (me) in the future. Thanks, Jonathan

I used to work with a guy who had a beeper style alarm. Watching him drop everything, and blast out the door with the crazed axmurder look on his face brought the lolz (all were false alarms :clapping: ). Tip of the day: Don't set the sensitivity too low, unless you need the exercise. :D Openning a door is what will set it off so it won't be a false alarm. what is the point of that? I have a 2 way pager on my car and I have a shock sensor on it and it tells me when something bumps my car, if you have it set off only with a door being opened. well they are going to check if its locked and then smash out a window. at that point your window is gone and your alarm will tell you. if you have a shock sensor or a motion sensor it will warn if they get near or bump your car and they will probably think twice about picking up that rock.

The only thing to worry about with Booby trapping your stereo is that in this day in age you can be held accountable for a person being hurt, even if he was trying to steal your stuff. its dumb but it does happen, so be careful.

Thieving really bugs me, but I guess what really bugs me more is lazy stupid thieves I see that the situation for you guys that have had your radio stolen is really $#!&ty, but to the person that attempted to steal windows radio is a moron, it looks like they only made out with your faceplate, if the idiot had any sense at all he would have been able to take the whole thing with ease, you just need some specific tools and common sense. for fitch it looks like they did way too much work then what was needed, your radio is more then likely a din mounted radio so there is no need to take off the dash bezel and probably break the screw hole that was behind the ashtray. I would rather (well I would rather low life pieces of $#!& not ever go near my stuff but...) if they attempt to steal my stuff then they steel the radio, not destroy stuff in the process then give up and just take my face plate, thats just plain laziness. I worked in an audio install shop for 3 years and i have seen my share of theft attempts and missing face-plates, and we always joked that we were going to go out and become "courteous thieves" we would remove the radio without breaking any dash pieces, unplug the harness without cutting all the wires off and even look around to see if you had the factory radio and put that back so at least you had some music to listen to. All in all a $#!&ty situation and I'm sorry for your loss. Jonathan

I would understand where you were coming from if these people were peddling their wares that had nothing to do with the site. if someone wants to sell me pills to enlarge my manliness, or diet pills, or tries to hock a bunch of sham-wows on this site then by all means ban them because they are spammers trying to make money off of anyone. the people that pop on to sell their trucks or parts, I have no problem with. I would rather them target an audience that appreciates the trucks and the parts then someone that is just looking for any truck and would treat it as a truck and not as a Comanche. maybe they don't contribute to the community as a whole by sharing their knowledge but they could give members of the community a chance to purchase a Comanche, or the part they have been looking for to fix/improve their trucks. I just don't see how banning anyone that just wants to sell and item that is related to the interest of the members of this site if a viable way of running a forum. the thing is that YOU may not want something that these people are selling but someone on here may just want to buy that truck or those parts. maybe some people are not as capable of finding parts or trucks, it not like we all live near JeepcoMJ where they have Comanches growing in the fields :fs1: I'm not denying your 1st amendment rights I did not call out for Pete to ban you because I did not like what you were posting, all I'm saying is that just because you don't find these peoples contributions helpful doesn't mean that they are not providing resources that could help others. how often do you see people link to craigslist or ebay? pretty often. now they skip they middle man and post on our site about OUR INTERESTS. if they poped on here and tried to sell us tires because they see we drive trucks, then yea that is a stretch. why get mad at people for finding and hitting up a target audience, thats the way selling stuff works. "I have crafts, I'm going to sell them at a craft fair" "I have some baseball cards I'm going to sell them at a baseball card show" "I have a Comanche/Comanche parts to sell I'm going to sell it at the Comanche Club" It just makes sense. Jonathan

I usualy go right to his XJ bumper page where the prices are still the same, I had no idea he had a deal on the slimline winch bumper. for that price I'm thinking very hard about buying one. thanks for the info. Jonathan

nice build so far. but damn you people and your rust free trucks :fs1: do you already have your Nate's 4x4 bumper? I need to get some sort of bumper for recovery (prefer a winch with a stinger just to get it all at once instead of upgrading in the future) and I had been looking into them. its down to Nate's and JCR, JCR is more expensive but they look amazing and have a warranty for if it breaks off road, Nate's is once they send it to out their hands are clean of it. so let me know what you think of it. Jonathan

I made up some cables, what info were you looking for? I have pics of the cables I made in my project thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1678&start=45 part way down the page. other then that I have seen others do the cable upgrades and I'm sure they will chime in with some help. Jonathan

"Speedo, Volt, Oil Pressure, Temp and Big Gas Gauges." that is the gauge cluster I have. and even though gas level is an important piece of information to have I have no idea why they needed to make it as big as they did. so I should be able to unplug this cluster and place in a cluster with a tach and everything should work? no need to replace sensors because they are already there. just have to make sure to be careful with the spedo cable. There have also been threads about changing the odometer to match the old one. has anyone done this and is it hard? I just want to match the 2 gauge clusters and not take miles off because that would be shady. I for some reason I can't do the cluster swap I was thinking about cutting the top of the cluster bezel and fit it a little recessed into the top right in between he two large gauges in the cluster right in the center. Thanks for the help Jonathan

can anyone suggest a nice simple aftermarket tach, I don't want one that will go all the way up to 10000 Rpm and blind me with a 2 inch led telling me to shift. my gauge cluster just lacks a tach so i would like a simple one to put in. specifications: cheap without dipping into the realm of "crappy" no chrome self illuminated (stock green would be nice, maybe a dim dark blue like a lot of the new cars are coming with) maybe 8000 rpm or whatever the stock tach has something tastefully sized (I don't want a wall clock sitting on my dash, or wherever I decide to mount it, maybe stock gauge size) I have been checking my summit catalog every time it comes in and see ones around 40 bucks all the way up to ridiculous money. Thanks, Jonathan

what do these landing lights run price wise? a 4 light light bar with 2 of these in the middle and 2 wider focus would be pretty sweet. are they normal size? or are they behemoths?

get one of those spray gun tops that snap on the rattle can. your finger will not cramp up and hurt afterward. Jonathan

circuit made a lot of stupid decisions, the one you are talking about is probably the dumbest. they decided to fire... or "separate" some of the more knowledgeable higher payed associates and replace them with new associates so they could start them off at the base pay. they even offered to hire some of the employees back, how nice... did i mention that they were hired back at significantly less pay? yea a$$hole move on their part, a few of my good friends lost their jobs on that round.

not positive about other stores but I'm pretty sure that most of the people working are still circuit city staff. at my store we have one person that is in charge from the liquidation company. he is in charge of at least 2 stores. other then that it is all people that have worked there for a while.

All I have to say is do your research first. most of the items at the beginning are marked up to MSRP and then marked down from there. some things you can get for a very good price but it will be hard to get a spectacular deal because in the time that it takes it to get down to that price someone with less sense then you said "wow what a bargain" and took it for the OK discounted price. on a side note all I ask is that you try to be as nice as you can to the employees, I'm not saying don't get pissed if they are being an @$$, I'm just saying don't get pissed if they tell you the price of something and you do not agree. the employees of circuit no longer have any say in what the prices are, are going to be, and how much they were. I work at circuit city and I have seen and heard my fair share of people that I would like very much to punch in the face. from comments like "there are no bargains here" (which is not bad but to hear it 10 times a day in varying degree of annoyance really gets to you) to "wow this place sucks no wonder they are going out of business" (because you had a bad customer experience means that 32,000 people deserve to be jobless). everyone working there know that they will not have a job in about a month or whenever the decide to close down that particular store. if you were put in that position and then verbally abused by customers all day long, it would be pretty hard to keep a nice face on. End of off tangent rant. other then that keep an eye out for great deals and do your research to make sure that great deal is in fact all that great. Jonathan

Ha, you should see the new toyota wiring, and I'm sure there are more that use the same thing but the switched wire is around a 22 gauge wire.

best way to test speakers is with a tone generator. batteries is a quick and dirty way to do it but should not be used all the time. a lot of new vehicles have lots of safety equipment in them and also a lot of sensitive computer systems. Sending voltage to some wire can damage electronics or even worse blow out air bags which could be very dangerous. as for the grounding I have never encountered a radio that needed to have a wire run from the radio chassis to ground. most vehicles stock ground wire will provide enough to run the radio perfectly fine unless the vehicle had the stock radio bolt into the car using metal brackets where it would receive a chassis ground. the bolt on the back of the radio is used for support purposes. as for running new power wires while it it nice it is not necessary. there are not many radios that needs to have a separate power wire run. the only one I can think of is some of the older Alpines. even in my own car I have a touch screen with a separate brain and a few accessories attached and it is running fine off the stock wiring. if you are tapping power off the radio harness for things like satellite radio, ipod adapters, radar, whatever else all at the same time then yea you should run a separate power wire but you should also just make a new circuit and allow the stock radio wires to power just the radio. Jonathan

hate to do this but did you turn the radio on? I don't want to sound like an @$$ I just know that with pioneers when you install them and turn on the car they don't do anything until you hit the source button or on button on the radio. If that doesn't work make sure your wire are the correct ones, if you power the radio off the dimmer wire it does test right but it may not have enough juice to power the radio. or the dimmer wire may test like a ground until you turn the car on. if you checked the fuse in the back of the radio then the radio should be fine unless it suffered some sort of catastrophic failure twice. did the switched or constant wires on the pioneer harness have in line fuses on it? hope the info helps out. Jonathan

the stock rear speakers should be a 4x6 size. Jonathan

pretty sure you can get that game for the ps2 also. Jonathan

They can be had for about $240 here is the manufactures page on the mini rock crawler http://losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0222 I think I'm going to go the tuber route with mine also, we just got done with out first attempt at brazing and I have to say we don't totally suck at it. I think my brother in law is going the scaler route with his. if you guys are interested you can see a lot of other peoples rigs and get more info at this forum here: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=152 Jonathan