91coMANche

Go to the app store for your Mac and the top free game has a Comanche on its cover! Its called Alpine Crawler!

Is it maybe just loose?

4.10 isnt beef its ratio. You'd want a Dana 44 with stock sized tires if you beat on it. Well I think I'm gonna go with that idea for now. Get the 4.0 system running and save up to get the 4.9. How much beefing up would I have to do? My rear axle is already running 4.10 gears.

Lube locker is more for someone that constantly changes their diff fluid. For most of us with the sense to just raise the breather tube and check for fluid in the oil before just haphazardly draining the fluid, RTV would make much more sense. Further, RTV is a positive seal that bonds to both surfaces.

Wow thats a really good price. Only thing is that I've never been that impressed with the strokers. Probably because the stock 4.0 is so powerful that I've never seen the increase really that impressive.

Any chance you could snap a picture of the water flowing side of the housing? I wouldn't want any of the iron ones (doesn't dissipate heat fast enough/not good for cooling) but if it looks like they could use a good porting and I can find a way to chuck it up under the mill I'd be interested in seeing if I could offer a Renix thermostat housing.

I was looking for HO but I've never worked on a Renix one. I'd be interested in looking to see if they can be ported for more flow on my Mill. Can you explain why there are cast iron and aluminum models out there?

Does removing a 4.0 oil pan require dropping the exhaust or my 2wd axle?

Friends, A couple members here had me use my machinists mill to bore out some 4.0 thermostat housings for higher flow. Well I ported the housings but now I don't have anymore for other wanting a ported housing. I am offering $7.50 shipped for each good thermostat housing you send me. Thanks and if anyone needs a hi-flow ported thermostat housing send me a message and I'll try and find someone that has a stock one and then mill and hand finish it for you.

Haha Quotes: "small crack in the window" - reality is that there is a gigantic break in the window "small scuff on the bed" - reality is that it was hit on the side of the bed and needs body work "bumper is pushed up a bit but no damage to it" - reality is that the bumper is all bent up and the ends are both bent badly. "front fender has some discoloration" - is that all it has? I love his quotes!

Nice! If you are going to customize a rear bumper then get a junky one. Sounds like yours just needs a little beating out, sanding, bondo, and paint?

Filling over the top doesn't necessarily mean anything. If there is any water shooting out or even good noticeable bubbles then you need a new headgasket/head.

Well if you took off the radiator cap, started the engine, and it shot out...then you need a new head gasket or head!!! Luckyyyyy youuuuuu :headpop: :fs1: Don't fret, if you haven't driven it too much then the bottom end is probably find and a fresh head will give you a good power boost from what you're used to.

On the 4.0 you do NOT have to remove the rockers. Just the pushrods. Its pretty easy to remove the head. If you've got a little experience turning wrenches you should be able to have it off in an hour or two. I would first do what they say above about taking the radiator cap off cold, starting the engine, and looking for bubbles. Also changing the oil should tell you a good deal about whether waters getting in there. If you go to a machine shop they will steer you correctly in what needs to be done. Just so you know you won't be pulling out any valves yourself. Just take it in there and have then check the head for cracks and flatness, and then lapp valves and do stem seals.

If its not leaking out of the outside of the slave and there is none leaking up under the dash then it could be a couple things. 1. A leak elsewhere? 2. Most likely you have air in the system. This shouldn't have just happened on its own so you need to figure out why its there. Nonetheless you could always start with a bleeding. I bled my slave cylinder on my own without a buddy so you can do it solo if you don't have a helper. I just cracked the bleeder and let it drip for a little. Then close the bleeder and pump the pedal, release pedal, open bleeder for a little. Keep doing that while topping off the slave and see where that leaves you.

Any link to pictures of said RE Comanche?

I would take anything Comanche only. That would include the bed, interior, back window, trailer hitch, rear frame brackets, cab metal that is solid (possibly). Otherwise the rest is just XJ. Your ratio should be 3.07-3.55 if 4.0. Make sure its an AX-15 before pulling! This is what I would do but I also spend lots of money buying spares for my Comanche project and haven't gotten anything free for my Manche so I'd probably be all over a free parts truck.

I will be watching this post closely. ANYONE that can help would put our community at a huge advantage.

I'm not entirely positive if the 99 has the improved impeller but I also heard of it having one. You could probably just have them grab one off the shelf for you to check. Just so you know I have an A1 Cardone one on my truck and it runs fine. Also, if you have an advance auto parts near you then order it online for in-store pickup and use coupon code "VISA" and you'll get it the cheapest you can find anywhere. I'll PM you about the thermostat housing.

You should get an XJ water pump instead of a Wrangler one. Why did you suddenly decide to get an 03 Wrangler one instead of a 99-01 XJ one? Also, the best cooling upgrade I've seen occurred after I ported my thermostat housing on my mill. No matter how much I beat on that 4.0 it will not even approach the 210* mark. If you want to try one let me know - I still have a couple left.

I have whatever comes with a LUK clutch kit and its been working really well. I shouldn't have posted this because now mine is going to die :(

Wait, lets clarify...the bolt on mounts are different but you will just bolt your stock ones on. I put a 1998 Grand Cherokee 4.0 in my 1991 and everything from the 91 engine just bolted onto the 98. Just get a 96-99 engine (best block, rings, and pistons) and then swap all your Renix equipment and mounts to the newer 4.0. You'll love the PAWR!

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2784770 Thats the part number. Its formally called a knuckle. They wear out where the caliper sits so if you get a used one from a boneyard make sure its got good meat on that edge. Be sure to do balljoints while you're in there because the 19 year old joints will likely show some age when you beat the knuckle off.

I got a good temperature sensor for you. I am sure someone can chime in and get you an oil pressure sending unit too. PM sent.

I DD the Manche and I figure thats how it should be. Try and fix up the crown vic like this: