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Oh I didn't realize my non c-clip 35 had 10" drums. So unless the brakes look good on the spare axle its not getting swapped in.

I have a terribly howling Dana 35. I have an 88 non-clip 35 in the bed of my truck and a 91 c-clip 35 running in the truck with brand new brakes. If I put the 88 in the truck that is running a 91 D35 will the brakes swap over? Driveshaft U-joint the same?

If anyone has another let me know! I keep going back and forth on the 44 idea!

Any American brand has been good for me. I believe Bendix is a especially good.

Buy the tires and then find a small shop ( :USAflag: ) that keeps the money in the USA to install them. I always take my tires to one of the local used tire places to have them mounted and balanced. Also, 30X9.5X15 is right around 235/75-15 and will give you some other choices and fit on a stock ZJ.

What is a ubolt eliminator?

I am told the junkyard is your only hope for a hitch unless you purchase the Reese universal hitch, which seems to bolt up like factory. Do a search for universal hitch to see users results.

I found it impossible to turn with the Powertrax in the front axle. I wouldn't install another in the front. Not only was turning difficult but it would also understeer in rain and snow more easily because the front didn't want to turn under power.

GOT IT! There is a live wire by the parking brake with a spade connector attached. I have no idea what it is but I saw it sparking...too bad I went through 10 fuses until I figured it all out. What does the live black wire by the parking brake pedal control?

Now its blowing fuses INSTANTLY. I don't have trailer wires but I do have some shoddy tag light wiring. Could those do this? Quick I'm taking a road trip in an hour and a half!

Would super sloppy wipers mean the wiper motor is going bad or the linkage? I can pick up the wipers and swing them back and forth before they hit a stop. I suspect that issue is the linkage. They are also kind of slow at times which I suspect is the motor. Would any XJ system fit? Could I get it from a 97+?

I guess the tolerance on the header panel isn't appropriate. I guess I will source bigger adjuster snaps or get a MOPAR header panel.

If you stick with 235/75 15 you can get the Goodyear Wrangler Radial for really cheap new. I have them now and they are good tires for low traction times. $78 a tire new. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Goodyear-Wran ... al/4404150 Its the original "all-terrain" tread.

Could someone post instructions on how to install new buckets and lights...perhaps I'm missing something.

Any reason why my headlights are loose in my new header panel? Its just a spring and the two adjustment screws right? I snapped the threaded inserts into the new header panel (before someone suggests that).

The 97+ HO engines use a single temperature sensor that both tells the computer whether to be in open or closed loop and to feed the dash gauge. I have a 1998 4.0 (ridiculously amazing and I suggest the swap to everyone) and so I don't have a head with a hole pretapped for a temperature sensor for the gauge. I will drill and tap a thermostat housing and install my sensor in that.

Bud Coors Miller mmmmmmmmm

The fuse is definitely clean and firmly planted in the fuse box?

Will do. So far it seems as if everyone is getting the standard carpet instead of the Essex. I have yet to find anyone that gets the "massbacking." When my 20 year old vinyl came out there was normal surface rust under it and as we all know the vinyl holds lots of moisture. So hopefully even though the cheapest carpet will have the woolen like backing, now it cam breath up through the carpet instead of just sit there.

Ordering my carpet kit from Rockauto.com unless anyone has anything negative to say in the next 30 minutes. I will be ordering the most basic one since I cannot find a single person telling me I have to spend all the extra money for the "upgraded" units.

There is nothing wrong with the stock port in the head if I was still running the weeny 190hp 1991 4.0 :D Lucky me is updating and upgrading to all my dream Jeep parts and one of them was an upgrade to a 98 ZJ 4.0. These did not use a sensor in the head. So where the hole was in the 91 head is just a cast-over on the 98 head. I am not sure what the 98 ZJ used to fire the temperature gauge but it didn't come from the head. I am pretty sure it would just use the main coolant temperature sensor. Anyway, are there any block drains except for the two on the exhaust side of the block?

I was just about to start drilling and tapping the thermostat housing when I realized that I could just as easily find a spot on the block thats already drilled and tapped. I know there are two coolant drains on the side of the block that is shared with the intake/exhaust. Are there any other drains on the block? I would get a reducer to fit the sensor into the hole. Are there any other drain ports that are away from the exhaust side? I am a little scared of running a wire down near the header.

I found a really good low miles one from an automatic so I am getting ready to swap that into my Jeep this week. Once that is complete I am going to try and rebuild the original unit. I will post back my results as soon as I can. Until then if anyone has pictures of YJ components that will help the process along.

So anyone get it with the mass backing or get the Essex premium carpet?

No matter how much fuel is in my tank I cannot have the gauge go to full. It sits at 3/4 as a maximum. This occurred with the stock cluster and the new cluster I have in the Jeep.