91coMANche

Thats a good question. 91 and older use one size. If you can measure the snout on your NV3550 I can give you a hand. I had to custom make one to fit a 98 4.0 to a 91 AX-15.

I am getting a Dana 44 this weekend! Its got the 3.07 I have and I like them because I get good mileage and the 4.0 has plenty of power. Problem is that I am going up to a 31" mud tire so I need better gears. Would anyone have some 3.55 or maybe 3.73 Dana 44 gears? I could also use a posi if you have one for sale.

Diesel wrangler doesn't excite me. I used to have a TJ and they are literally useless. Now they are really fun and I am sure the 4 door is quite useful BUT a diesel should come in a new mid-sized pickup. They could call it the Comanche and build it on the Durango platform but with a 4BT and dual Dana 44's.

Now that you mention it, I think I've seen some of that wood around. Sounds like good barn-building wood.

As to the Window: Thanks guys...I know where there is a good flush mounted back window but it looks like I don't have to get that since what I have could be factory. I'll probably just leave it alone if that is the case. As to the Wood: I think its honey-locust. I picked up a splitter with a 1940's wisconsin engine on it (1 pull starts) and I'm just having fun splitting up all the wood. I know how to identify lots of different hardwoods and softwoods but I didn't know Hedge is a good burner. Actually I've never heard of Hedge. Is that an east-coast tree?

Is my back window factory for 1991? Also, if you look through the front window you can see my Locust logs...they burn HOT!

11 years!? you mean 20+ years!!!

It is a horrible idea. I had one in the front of my ZJ and it is impossible to turn if you are even slightly on the throttle. If you are not on the throttle it still has to unlock, which can be delayed in the cold. If you want a front traction device you could look at a powerlock, which is a 4 spider gear version of a traclock and a really good device. Why do you need a front locker anyway?

The MJ is my fuel saver :D Modern 4.0/2wd/AX-15/3.07 and an empty bed :banana: :jump:

You'll just need a new pilot bushing. If you can't figure it out let me know and I'll look it up for you. Make sure you get a 94+ AX-15 so that you get the external slave cylinder model.

Is axle hop caused by the same thing as axle wrap?

I only have wrap with it loaded up BUT remember that I have A LOT more power than you have. I have a modern 98 4.0 with all the updates and you have an older 2.5. If the truck is unloaded its fine and the most I get is axle hop not wrap. The wrap is when I have it full of LOCUST LOGS and taking off from a start. Wrap can break a u-joint and is annoying so I am going to build an antiwrap bar or I could get the extra long perches for when I swap out my D35. I've got more power than you, 91comanche...and I have no wrap issues. I'd peg your issues to weak springs.. Could be weak springs...could also be the 3.07's?

I only have wrap with it loaded up BUT remember that I have A LOT more power than you have. I have a modern 98 4.0 with all the updates and you have an older 2.5. If the truck is unloaded its fine and the most I get is axle hop not wrap. The wrap is when I have it full of LOCUST LOGS and taking off from a start. Wrap can break a u-joint and is annoying so I am going to build an antiwrap bar or I could get the extra long perches for when I swap out my D35.

How do you prevent axle wrap!? My spring under wraps...I can only imagine spring over.

Got any pics of MJ anti wrap bars?

How will you measure quantity? Did it leak?

Ok so here is the breakdown: on the front if you get adjustable uppers you can point the pinion up and toward the transfercase. This should also give you better handling. Adjust the uppers toward the transfercase then point the pinion down 5*. You could get longer lowers in theory but it won't make a difference. Long arms wouldn't make any difference either. You just need some adjustable uppers (assuming all else is new) to compensate somewhat for your lift.

Sure looks like he does. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and say that they aren't just welded to the stock crossmember and there is going to be strengthening going on. Remember that the stock control arm mounts aren't much but if he's used the crossmember he is putting pressure on a part that is already holding a transmission/transfercase and isn't really intended to take horizontal forces like a control arm.

A 12.5 tire is perfect on a 8" wide wheel. If you go any wider you'll debead so easily. Now in the 1980's you wouldn't run a 12.5" wide tire on anything less than a 10" wheel :brows:

"Minor problems...300 lbs 'in the bed'" - Listen we won't make fun of you for too long but just say "Guys i got up to 112 with my fat girlfriend in the truck. P.S. - a fat girlfriend is more than just a minor problem. :banana:

Thermostats on 4.0's should always go on with some gasket sealer. There are those little ketchup-like packets by the register at parts stores and they sell the perfect stuff for thermostat housing sealer. Its a gasket sealer that seals perfectly but is not difficult to remove if needed.

Because almost 100% of his vehicles weight looks to be on the back bumper. I would guess...but obviously none of us can be sure that he went up the wires pretty darn quick. He probably went up too quick and now theres not enough pressure on the rear tires to back him down.

haha i like that never noticed that "jeep" upside down is "beer" You never noticed it because its not. To be clear: the original poster just purchased a sticker that spells Jeeq when placed right side up. Funny nonetheless and the vast majority would have no clue! Good buy!

Absolutely. There will be silicone rubber ends on it. I just don't like the way the rubber hose lays across everything. It could be rerouted better.

I want to replace my upper radiator hose with a mandrel bent aluminum pipe. Can anyone replicate the stock rubber hose in aluminum?