91coMANche

I just got an email that said I requested my password...but I did not request this...

I sent you a message on this. I have a working pedal assembly that is like new and came from a super clean automatic truck.

Good so I have no problem!

So now that I have my AC blowing ICY cold another small issue has shown its head. When I have the AC on high the volts will drop to 12 at idle...when I give it gas the belt squeels and slips but the volts rise to 14.4. Is my alternator dying? Belt is tight and a new gatorback.

Compressor comes on. It's low. What direction turns the low pressure valve open?

On my 91 with stock AC, if the compressor comes on when I turn on the AC that means it has level of refrigerant charge? The system wouldn't allow the compressor to come on if it was empty, right?

It won't fit from an XJ rear. Honestly, your 35 lasted a good while. Just get the parts to redo the gears. You could always break a shaft if you get on it hard with your bigger tires but that is also replaceable. Your 92 is a street vehicle that you keep clean so a Dana 35 is just fine for your usage. Go ahead and get a ring and pinion with install kit. Make sure you don't need spider or side gears too. If you do then just get a nice posi unit like a powerlock. You're looking at around $600 with parts to repair the axle but only a couple hundred to find another 35. You should repair it because you can't do the swap yourself. My 35 needed bearings so I just replaced it with a 44 but I knew how to get driveshafts redone and so forth. You should repair the 35 and be happy with the truck again.

How about just a universal tag mount from the parts store?

So my trucks got the standard R12 requirement. I can get R12 substitute much cheaper and easier. So any tips on charging her up? At the moment no cold air but I feel the compressor come on when driving.

Just use the block and heads with your electronics. Careful that the 2000 doesn't have a cracked head. The 2000 and 2001 (maybe even 2002) 4.0 had a head cracking issue that basically strikes all engines. Some crack early, some crack late after the body is gone. Some crack and only weep water into the bottom end slowly.

So I need bubble flare at valve but double flare at the line right?

Ok so my flare was wrong on that port...but the rest sealed up well... Also, I think I installed the lines wrong. So apparently the line coming out of the front of the MJ valve is supposed to feed the rear on the XJ valve? I just threaded the Xj valve where the MJ one was and left the front port off. Did I do something wrong?

So I installed a 1996 XJ proportioning valve right where the stock MJ one fit. I hooked up the lines exactly as they fit on the MJ valve and did not install the line that fits at the very front of the valve because that port is not on the XJ valve. The lower rear line that feeds the front drivers side caliper is leaking out of the valve. So I removed the line and bent a new 3/8" line (3/8" is the wrench size, but I think the like is 3/16"). The new line leaks at the valve too. What am I doing wrong? Is that line metric or something?

As noted, you do NOT need an XJ proportioning valve if you have the Jegs. Which port of the MJ distribution block did you plug? The one you need to plug is the large one toward the front on the BOTTOM of the metering block. The one you retain is the port in the "nose" of the metering block. I recently installed my XJ valve and the only line that didn't bolt up was the far front port line. I cut that line off at the old block. Was that not the bypass to the rear?

What does that MJ have for lift and tire size?

Unless you had some massive driveability issues, a manual injector cleaning wouldn't give you a 100% increase in fuel mileage. Are you sure your math is correct? I mechanically cleaned my injectors too but it gives maybe 1mpg and mostly it provides balanced running.

If you guys just installed new wheel cylinders or calipers you won't be able to gravity bleed them. Gravity bleeding only works when there is enough fluid in the system to start pulling from the master cylinder. if you're getting no fluid then you need a pedal bleed. If you haven't replaced your master cylinder then you better get that next along with the booster. Those parts do go bad and on 20 year old trucks they are already worn.

Could you put the year and model of your MJ in your profile. That will help us help you.

Yup. No need to "roll coal" in my book. My truck just flat out doesn't smoke. You might see a haze come out the tailpipe but otherwise nothing. Its in tune and has boat loads of power so any fuel that goes into the combustion chamber is fully burnt. If you tow a bunch you almost have to have a diesel but if its infrequently then the gas will do it all and has a much lower base price.

Glad I got my 96 XJ proportioning valve ready to go in so I can bleed the truck like a normal vehicle :)

I have a gas manche and a diesel ram - both 91's. I can say for sure that they are good for distinctive tasks with some crossover. The 4.0 with a stick is really fuel efficient, the 5.9 with an auto is real efficient as well (with the cost of diesel higher they might come out pretty close). The manche is gentler on the back over the road :D and is much more tuned for daily driving than a 3/4 ton diesel. If you don't pull tons of weight 5 times a week you probably don't need a diesel (hence why I'm probably selling my 12 valve soon). Now both my trucks are stock engines. If I was into modifying engines, it would be infinitely cheaper to double the power of my diesel (that could also be particular to the purely mechanical 12 valve Cummins compared to the newer electronic engines that started in 94). Diesels usually come with beefier drivetrains simply because they make so much torque and all over the powerband. I wore out the 35 in the manche but I couldn't imagine wearing out the 35 spline Dana 70 in the Cummins. When my 35 wore out I had to upgrade to a 44 where as you wouldn't have to do that in the diesel truck. Gas truck brakes are much cheaper to work on because gas engines don't have vacuum pumps. A vacuum pump on a diesel truck is usually $400 or so but on a gas truck you just pull a line off the intake. Overall it seems like most car guys get the "diesel itch" (not to be confused with other itches) and will have a diesel truck for some period of time. The diesel itch is the main reason why I bought my Cummins and it gives me a smile every time but the gas manche is still a damn good, and practical car that can do the same thing that 90% of diesel truck owners actually need out of their truck (except it won't make you look official in the Tractor Supply lot idling :):):) )

I would like to plug up the port on my proportioning valve that feeds the height valve in the back. Where did you buy the plug and what size am I looking for?

Do you often say that?

If the one port is plugged then the stock line to the rear can remain with only the necessary modifications in the rear to avoid the valve, right?

I saw that link but I sort of don't have time to wait for production. Isn't there a universal I can get at the parts store that just needs little spacers to work?