91coMANche

So my options are to buy new drums, shoes, cylinders and hardware for the 44 or go disks. Looks like disks will require fabrication unless someone can supply the bearing retainers. Is there a junkyard disk kit that bolts on?

I have a hobby mill but I doubt it could machine backing plates :( The axle may come with good backing plates but I would guess that I couldn't use the 44 backing plates with the 35 drums... Any particular disk brakes I could get from the junkyard that would work in place of the drums?

You could also just buy some battery cable and run some extra grounds to the firewall. I just bought two and plan on running them to the firewall but on the engine side of the firewall to the block and to a fender. Also, if you look at the back side of the radio you will see a threaded port in the middle. I don't see it doing anything so I plan on threading a ground cable to that and then adding another ground to the firewall off that.

Thanks Spence! To clarify - I don't actually need to go to a machine shop right? I just need to open it up enough until it bolts up to the axle right?

I searched before I posted and found people saying that as long as you go from the backing plate to the drum then it swaps over. I don't know what brakes I have on the 35 but I assume I have the standard 9" brakes. The reason I posted was because I didn't seem to get 100% certainty that this will work. Some say ZJ disks bolt up but I also couldn't figure out what year and whether there would be any fabrication necessary (which would be fine if there was that need I am just making sure I go into the swap informed).

So I have a 44 for an MJ coming to me but with no brakes :( I have brand new brakes on my 35...I know they are smaller than the stock 44 drums but I could just bolt everything from the 35 onto the 44 correct?

In theory and in application its a wonderful concept...mine is leak free and I hope it stays that way. The idea makes so much sense that I think a new 2011 Ram 6.7 Diesel could sell better with this "optional" like a jake brake.

I guess I can scratch that off my list! I figured someone had installed a single filament bulb where there should have been a double filament bulb in the taillight and that is why I was having the hazard flashers stay on when I put my foot on the brake but not with my foot off.

XJ's plows are out there and pretty popular since they are easy to maneuver. I too think if I get 4wd I'll get a plow frame.

Advanceauto.com (google for coupons) or Rockauto.com

Realistically, what you need to do is put a little bit of heat on the drain plug and get it loose. Manual transmission really don't go south before the body is unusable unless the fluid gets thick and tar-like. You have thick, tar-like fluid from condensation and metals depositing. Replace it and it may help but probably won't fix or prevent the inevitable which is catastrophic failure. At least you know its going to lock up on you.

FLUID!? Well the thick Lucas shut it up a bit but once the Lucas shears even that cannot take the place of a bearing. Its much quieter but it could use a new rear. I'm honestly thinking 8.8 except I don't like that they are a little narrower than stock Jeep rears. The other one I am thinking about is a WJ aluminum 44 with quadra-drive vari-lock axles. I've owned lots of WJ's with those rear and they make your tires stick like glue!

You're right. The only time the 242 helped me off the pavement was when running high speed on mountain roads that weren't paved. I only used full-time so I would get good turning in some conditions but yeah its not as vital for everyone.

I can really appreciate the 242 over the 231 for on-road use myself. It also doesn't hurt trying to tow around certain bends...I hated my TJ 231 whereas I loved my ZJ 242...then again my favorite has to be the WJ 247 I used to have. No thinking just goose the skinny pedal as you please

I would because he said the competition is lying and he will save me money. Seems like a simple decision.

It was my understanding that stock for stock the 231 and the 242 are similar or the 242 is a hair stronger. If you update to a non-hack-and-tap short tailshaft then you will get a thicker mainshaft, which is substantially stronger. Even if I am wrong and the 231 is stronger (it can't be stronger by much) the weak link is the case and they are ridiculously difficult to break anyway.

I had some whining in my rear when I was steady/coast on the gas. I knew my pinion bearing was on the outs. Pulled the fill plug and started to suck the old fluid out and it was just pure silver! All the fluids were replaced right before I got the truck and I personally put the 1998 4.0 in it so I know fluids up front are good. Well seeing as how the pinion is eating itself up and making that noise I sucked out as much as I could and then refilled with 50% Lucas engine/gearbox treatment and some 85W-140. It went from whining to almost 100% quiet!!! Now this isn't my "fix" and I think I have a line on a 44 but I wanted to make this post to remind people to take a look and possibly change the oil in those often neglected pigs of differentials. :USAflag: :USAflag:

Oh I totally forgot about the high-pinion v. low-pinion difference. I was expecting the original poster to know how to setup gears...am I correct in my expectation?

It will work if you get the carrier and everything inside with it but I would just swap the entire axle instead of just the innards. The later axles are better in more ways than 1.

I think the best looking valve cover for a 4.0 is the later model steel one from a TJ/ZJ/XJ. I think it should work on your older head...get all the PVC hoses from whatever car you pull it from because all that will change. I have a 98 4.0 in my 91 and it all worked with the factory hoses going to the 98 valve cover.

Loose flexplate?

If you're open diff then it really won't make a difference. I like the thicker stuff only so I don't get leaky seals.

Thank guys...so I'll see if I can find 7/64" rubber line.

I just got my two 97+ XJ mirrors in and I bought them on eBay. I will let everyone know if they flop on the highway or not but so far they just look SOOOO much better than the stock weirdo mirrors.

Its not the antenna because the sound will bounce around the various speakers...when I push around on the faceplate it will help something and fix the problem...go over a bump and its broken again...I have the whole radio apart and cleaned...I just need to find the time to put it back together and test.