hgeranium

We're all still thinking about you, cruiser. Your knowledge is still helping countless folks in the XJ/MJ community and will continue to as long as gas cars are still legal

This may already be linked in the tech forum, but for those who need it and are already here, https://cdn.xjjeeps.com/pdf/en-us/jeep-engines-guide.pdf This PDF gives great in-depth information of engine and engine building for every AMC/Jeep engine from the 2.5, 2.8, 4.0, 4.2, 4.7, and the AMC 360!

1) Scribe hinge locations, remove engine compartment light (if equipped) and remove hood. Disconnect battery cables and remove battery. Drain cooling system. 2) Disconnect wire connectors from alternator, ignition coil and distributor. Disconnect oil pressure sender wire, starter wires and fuel injector wiring harness (if equipped). Detach 2 fuel pipe quick connect couplings at left inner fender panel. Disconnect engine ground strap and remove air cleaner. 3) Disconnect the vacuum purge hose at fuel vapor canister tee. Disconnect wire from idle speed actuator and oxygen sensor. Detach throttle cable from bracket and disconnect throttle valve rod at bellcrank. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses. 4) On automatic transmission models, disconnect the transmission fluid cooler tubing. On all models, remove fan shroud and radiator. Remove fan and spacer or Tempatrol fan assembly. Hold fan pulley to water pump flange using 5/16" x 1/2" SAE capscrew while crankshaft is rotated. 5) Disconnect cruise control cable (if equipped). Disconnect wires from starter motor solenoid and disconnect CEC system harness. Remove power brake vacuum check valve from booster (if equipped). 6) Disconnect power steering hoses from steering gear (if equipped). Drain power steering pump reservoir and plug end of hoses. Cap all fittings on steering gear and hoses. Raise and support vehicle. Remove starter. Remove flywheel housing access cover. 7) Remove upper and loosen lower bellhousing-to-engine bolts. Attach lifting equipment to engine. Raise engine off front mounts. Place support under bellhousing. Remove remaining bellhousing-toengine bolts. Lift engine out of engine compartment. TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS TABLE Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m) Automatic Transmission-to-Block .................. 28 (38) Clutch Housing-to-Block Top ............................................ 27 (37) Bottom ......................................... 43 (58) Drive Plate-to-Converter ......................... 22 (30) Drive Plate/Flywheel-to-Crankshaft ............. 105 (143) Front Support Bracket-to-Block ................... 35 (47) Front Support Cushion-to-Bracket ................. 33 (45) Front Support Cushion-to-Crossmember ............. 37 (50) Rear Support Bracket-to-Transmission ............. 33 (45) Rear Support Cushion-to-Bracket .................. 30 (41) Starter Motor-to-Converter Housing ............... 18 (24) There's plenty of tips and tricks that one can find browsing the jeep forums, but this is at least a starting point. It's straight out of an engine removal guide. I couldn't find anything directly from cruiser related to this, but at least now, after I hit submit on this comment, all of cruiser's tips will 'officially' be filled with some sort of information backed by the spirit of cruiser on Comanche Club!

Cruiser never made an official writeup for this but through multiple posts he and others gave enough information. I'll try my best to compress the information so this topic is a one-stop-shop for curious onlookers and link all the threads at the end. The method that cruiser toyed around with involves retaining the closed renix radiator, but adding an inline radiator hose filler, an overflow tank, and a couple of molded heater hoses. The part numbers are here: 11038 heater hose 11039 heater hose 63745 Moroso inline rad hose filler (on the upper rad hose) 730-4514 2.5 reservoir (7304514 is an alternative, just depends on where you can fit the tank; the closer to the moroso the better!) 703-1698 rad cap He also mentions that, while you're doing this, you can switch to "97 [heater] hoses [to] get rid of all that mumbo jumbo crap of the Renix hoses.", although not necessary. It's an easy way to delete the HCV with minimal work. ^ This is cruiser's picture using the 7304154 NAPA overflow tank. There is another example that I will put below. "Used a tank from a Cherokee and placed it where the old one was." Moroso Example of the 2.5 coolant tank as overflow below vvvv; bolts right in. You can also reuse the expansion tank as overflow: "Cleanest and easiest install IMO is to repurpose existing pressure bottle with $5 worth of parts. You don't have to relocate fuel pump ballast resistor or anything else on driver side fender. A couple of clamps and a nylon reducer and the pressure tank becomes the overflow bottle. " Another, albeit more expensive, method involves simply installing a Macs coolant tank and the 2.5 overflow tank, as done by PIKE: However, the moroso serves the same purpose as the macs, but at a much cheaper price; just requires a few more parts. If I'm missing something or get something completely wrong please tell me in the comments! I haven't done this myself so if anyone that has experience can make a step-by-step guide, that would greatly help the cohesiveness of this jumbled mess of a post lol. For some, it may be easier to just go through all the posts that I linked.

I've pieced together what cruiser was intending for this tip. He has a short explanation in this post above: It helps if you add a ground directly from the wiper motor ground point to a wiper pivot mounting screw. Otherwise, the ground is running from the motor, to the right inner fender, across the front and to the left inner fender. This writeup here is also fantastic for a total overhaul, but still goes into detail about adding a second ground for the wiper motor:

Thanks for posting about this! I never knew if that violent parking brake release was just a Jeep thing or there was something missing lol. It has so much force I’ve seen it very slightly move the numbers on the odometer. I never use the parking brake for that exact reason except on hills but good to know there’s supposed to be a stopper. Before I make another thread: anyone have any stoppers to spare?

RIP Don

Bump. Still on the hunt for 2 more center caps!!!

I love my 4.0 but if I could find a 2.5 XJ/MJ I'd definitely pick it up. When I'm driving around town it's not super fun to be getting less than 11MPG and not even have enough power to tow anything lol. Maybe if I had a metric ton.

I’m obviously pretty biased but I genuinely think A&M has the best chance to beat them. And I still think Ohio State is the best team in the country right now

What a great looking truck! And the build seems to be coming along quite smoothly. 2.5 4x4 5spd long bed sounds like the perfect combo to do all sorts of small truck stuff. I bet it gets pretty decent MPG too with the 4cyl stick.

Agreed. Any Facebook or reddit group that I've ever seen doesn't even come close to CC!

Oh cool. Might as well unplug it now for peace of mind. Thank you!

I do have the sentinel light feature. And there is the headlight buzzer and the seatbelt buzzer, of which the latter has not worked for quite some time. With the headlights coming on? I wouldn’t be surprised if the sentinel feature came on as you said which made the buzzer for it half go on or something. It was similar to a buzz but more of a whir/grind sound. I really don’t use the feature at all, it’s more of a nuisance as I have to intentionally turn my lights off early or else they’ll stay on for 30 seconds and blind a neighbor or shine into a store’s window. Might be worth it to disable it if I catch the sound again. I’m most worried about the lights being stuck on at night and draining the battery.

I’ve never even heard of that. I wouldn’t be surprised if the PO already did it. This is the first time I’ve ever heard it though. The headlights coming on are what’s really weirding me out.

If they don’t beat Texas next week I’m going to be disappointed

When washing the truck, I first noticed that the headlights randomly came on and turned off for about five seconds, then noticed a whirring sound coming from the inside of the truck. It was loud enough for me to hear from the outside. When I opened the door I could hear it coming from the dash/fuse box area but couldn’t see anything obvious. Turned the key and it immediately stopped. Truck turned on just fine; I was worried I was somehow shorting something out. I heard the sound again after I turned the truck back off for a second and it stopped on its own. Something about a headlight switch? I’m so confused.

Put those C101 wires in some wire loom! Or at least tape them together.

It’s so sad that Indiana pulled that comeback win off against penn state. I would’ve love to see yall finally topple them.

Standard Ignition PR21 is ~$58 on RockAuto. I would do some research first before replacing this since it is relatively expensive.

It goes into the fuel rail but it is its own separate part that you can replace.

I was having an issue like this in 2022. It would stumble over itself sometimes during acceleration but would never fully stall. YMMV but for me it ended up being a mix of the fuel pressure regulator, vacuum leaks, and possibly the CPS. But mostly the FPR