foreman1063

All you ever wanted to know about Wranglers

Can the headliner be made with a grey vinyl type material vs the felt material?

Try a MAPP torch to heat the flange around the bolt. If you can get it good and hot they will usually break free. Vibration (from a steel hammer) and penetrating oil usually help too.

That's good to hear. I would drive it and keep an eye on OP and engine sound. 4.0's are pretty tough but definitely keep a closer watch on the oil level. Good luck!

Is the oil level topped off now, how does the motor sound?

I have "onetonmj" on my tag, get questioned about it quite a bit. Not many people know what an MJ is and especially a Metric ton MJ.

I did a resistance reading on the CTS when the motor was up to temp and it read within specifications.

Thanks, I'll be checking the sensor ground. Maybe technically not a "heat soak" issue but definitely a heat issue. Only happens when the engine warms up and the higher the OAT the worse it gets.

Thanks Cruiser I'll check it out, although My MJ does not have a C101 connector. I know 88's are supposed to but mine does not. The VIN verifies it's an 88 and the wiring harness appears original/OEM, not chopped up. :dunno: :???:

I'll check it.

1988 Pioneer 4wd, 4.0l, 5 speed. Motor is stock with 240k miles on the clock. The only modification is the EGR has been disabled and a valve cover from a 92 XJ installed. I've read every heat soak thread on CC, tried a lot of stuff but still have hard starting and rough idle issues when motor gets hot. It started last summer when it was hot out and only happened occasionally but now it pretty much does it all the time, even though the air temp is cold. Once the motor is warmed up, subsequent starts are hard and the idle is rough, pretty much like it's missing on one or two cylinders. It smooths out when you start accelerating and driving but still idles rough when you come to a stop. Runs like a top when driving down the road. History of work completed within last year: - New dizzy with cam pos sensor, dist cap - New timing chain/gears - New plugs and wires - Rebuilt, Precision, 4 hole injectors - Cleaned TB, IAC, and cleaned/adjusted TPS - New fuel filter - New knock sensor Within the last two weeks: - Swapped MAP, CPS, coil / ICM - Tested coolant temp sensor, was good - Bypassed fuel pump resistor - Cleaned and tightened dip stick ground stud and terminals - Checked connectors/pins on most of the sensors listed above - Tightened intake bolts I'm getting a fuel pressure test gauge Saturday to check out the pressure when warm, also going to insulate the injectors in case they are getting over heated. If FP is good, I'm not sure what direction I'll go then, maybe pull the wiring harness apart and start checking for broken or chaffed wires. Any other ideas from the Renix gurus? Like I said, I've searched but I'm running out of ideas.

LKQ in Durham has a nice MJ with the insulated rubber floor liner. Looked to be in pretty good shape from what I remember. About 110 mile drive for you though, not sure how bad you want it.

I know it's along the same lines but Goof Off usually takes off any residue.

Looks like a six cylinder to me. That's a sweet Dana 35.

Same here, one in the yard nicer than 90% of the MJ's on the road. :shake:

If you open the throttle body butterfly to WOT by hand will it start? If so, check the TB IAC for crud. Clean IAC and TB and try to start. My sons XJ had the same symptoms and that's how I fixed it. Had fuel, good spark but no start. TB and especially IAC were filthy and caked with crap, cleaned with carb cleaner and started right up and ran like a champ. Good luck.

Tighten it down, looks like it's just spread apart more than 2-5/8". Probably spread when it was welded to the CA.

I got the replacement block for my 88 MJ form a 89 XJ Automatic. If you get one from a stick you run the risk of having similar issues. Plan on spending some time under the dash, on your back doing the replacement. I'm glad to have that job behind me. :wrench:

I get around 19 MPG, mixed highway and city driving. I get slightly better oil MPG but not much, ol Leaky :yes:

Mine did the same thing. I dropped the oil pan and the pump pick up screen was full of crap. I replaced the pump/pick up and cured the problem. It runs a solid 55-60 PSI driving and 45-50 at idle and hot.

Good short bed at the Durham LKQ right now. I think they go for $150.

Don't worry about missing it, it sucked!

Yes. So that's why people say it's not much better then a hp d30. The rubi 44 is low pinion and has d30 shafts, and knuckles... so really the only gain is a stronger carrier and the ability to get lower range gears. Little bigger 30 spline shafts but that's about the only extra beef.

Haven't used them but I'm pretty sure they are Yukon's lower end line. Give Chase at East Coast Gear Supply a call, he can give you the 411 on these or any gears.

These are what I used, they are a direct replacement for the old single hole OEM injectors. The old 4.0l is nice and smooth now. :thumbsup: