Dadinator

Today i installed new speedo cable. Then i disassembled the friggin steering column because last time i did not reassemble properly and the bright light switch wasn't working. All good now.

Thanks!

I have no experience with those. Have the chevy ones on my truck. I think the only way you bend them is side forces. If you are hitting it hard enough to bend those puppies, something else is breaking/ bending with them. Imho.

Yes that can happen. I have tested it and have no problem with it. It is safer because now when i press the brakes, the truck stops instead of going oh say 30 feet further than it should. The brakes sucked before i did this. Scary sucked. I had replaced everything in the system. The valve must have been clogged or something as i only had fronts as far as i could tell. Now truck stops normally.

Bypassed the rear load level brake proportioning valve or whatever the damned thing is called. Truck stops like it should now. Yes i can lock up the rears first if i slam it, but really worth it as now the truck feels much safer. Now it is time for new tires, steering stabilizer and another alignment. Gonna get some cooper at/3s. Have them on wifes tj and could not be happier with them. Then i have to see if i can diagnose that annoying stalling problem. Have to go through cruisers tips.

Agree with all. Grab that axle too. Get rid of the stupid vacuum disco. I would also check the little bracket that mounts in the tranny tunnel that holds the t/c linkage. I know they are different from auto to manual. Not sure if different for your application.. doesn't hurt to grab it. See if they will just sell you the whole xj. I actually got my donor xj for $450 from a small local yard. Not as new, but money well spent. Then if i needed something, i just pulled it off and swapped it. check my build thread. Might give you some ideas. Good luck!

Are these upgrades all legal? I would think the harness is, but some of you going brighter and brighter. I would think that you would be blinding oncoming traffic. No?

Depends on your needs. 32's on it will bog it down. I wish my 4.0 had more power. :) The wifes tj with a 2.5 is a dog with the 2.5. Have had it for 17 trouble free years though. It will do what you want, but will be slow doing it. if that is ok with you then go for it.

Thx

Cruiser, somehow I knew that was coming. :) Have not had time to really diagnose it yet. The things i have done so far were kind of while i am doing this, i will try that. Like the egr i unhooked while i was bypassing the rear brake prop valve. I will do those sometime in the future.

I replaced the icm too from the donor. Forgot about that. Didn't fix.

My truck has been stalling for years. I have had so many other things to fix on it, that i haven't spent much time on it yet. My symptom is it doesn't stall when it is cold. Once it is warm, i will start it, run it a short while like down my driveway and when i press the clutch, it dies. Then i will start it and it will not die again unless i turn it off for a few minutes. Then if it sits a few mi utes and i start it will die 1 time like described above. Then won't die again. Same way every time. I just bypassed the egr the other day and had no effect. Will probably hook it back up. In the past i have bypassed the fuel pump regulator. Replaced the whole throttle body and iac with one from my previous donor xj since it was laying around. None have had any effect.

She did a great job on the cup holders. Got them online somewhere. Dakota seats using comanche seatbelts. Dakota seat has the flip open console. No cupholders within. Thanks for all the props!

Rockfrog, Check the last page of my build thread in my sig. I have the chevy drop shackle/ 2" puck metric ton combo with 31's. had the 31's stock too. Could not be happier with the 2". I use the truck as a truck and not an off road toy.

Just an update. Bought a chain on ebay. Installed pretty easily. Frankly removing the tcase from the truck was the hardest part. Sat on the workbench for a bit as other things got done first. You know how that is. Reinstalled this past weekend. All is good. now back to the brakes. :)

Yep the only thing that is direct swap that i know of is comanche seats. The dakota seats required fabrication. In my build thread, there are pics of me grinding. You have to adapt the comanche brackets to the seats you are using or fab some new ones up. Mine sit up higher than mnkyboy's. You can see he went to greater pains to lower his. Mine are the same height as the middle one. I like the sitting up higher. Took some getting used to at first, but i like it.

Just another option. Check my build thread last page i believe. 2004 dakota seats.

I have never seen that cluster you are switching to. But as said before, it will swap with only the addition of the sending units needing changed. They are very easy to change as well. Check my build thread if you need details. Easy as pie.

220+ on the MJ, but it is not a DD. 95K on the 2010 Focus that is the DD. Wifes 2.5 TJ has 196K and is her DD.

Guess I was too slow. :thumbsup:

The clocking on the xfer case will be different. I believe. Will work, but it will be different. Not sure if you lose ground clearance or if it gets up in the floor some.

I found an aftermarket 8 ball one at the jy in a mj they had. It was in perfect shape. They gave it to me because I was buying Dakota seats at the time. I love it.

Offer less, but if it is worth it to you, it is worth it.

I just scored a set of 97 doors with power windows, locks, mirrors (Though 1 is broken) and interior panels with 2 lighted sun visors for $75. Questions: Will the locks from my old doors transfer over or will I need to get keys? Will the ignition switch from a newer one fit my old column? If not, I will just have to get 2 keys. Anyone have a wiring diagram for the newer doors before I start this project? Thanks!

Get an auto from the JY and swap out the pedal assembly. I did the opposite. Went from Auto to 5sp. Pretty easy really.