Wildman

Yea, I had to double checked this - And the D35 calls for 3.5 PINTS (Not Quarts) of SAE 80W/90. So, if your only getting 2.5 qts in, then your over filled, cause 3.5 pts equals a little less than 2 qts. This is based on <'94. >'94 calls for 3.7 pts.

So......I typed that up side down :D I ment "Fill to top filler hole" So if some one want to stand the MJ on it noise, more power to them :bowdown:

Both the AW4 and the 231 should take Dexron/Mercon ATF AW4 = Appox 4 quarts, run to hot, thru all gears and re-check, Don't over fill. 231 = Appox 2 quarts, filled to top of filler hole. I doubled checked both of the spects for your "mid" '90's equipment ;)

Rokhound - If you go back to the previous page on this topic, I think you'll find the info your looking for. The filler plug in in the rear, middle of the case, on the passenger side, and it takes 4.5 pints of 80W90 oil, 2 and 1/2 quarts.

That's it!!! '90 is went they went to the C-clip axel shafts. You even beat me to the reply to your post :D

Congratulation's on your new Family Member :jump:

:offtopic: So.....Rockhard, your original plan to use them 46" tires on the MJ project is not going to happen now???? I seem to remember your posts on the local board that was your plan?? I think your idea of using a XJ fuel tank in the space of the spair tire need alittle more thought there, also, that is one of the large problem with the XJ on departure angles. I'm sure other's will chime in on this subject. :???: What did you strip down?? it looks like a half of Xj in the background there??? Also, I believe this topic was started by the OP as "options on engine replacement"

First, Welcome to the ComancheClub :wavey: Just like the other post....How fresh is the gas, been sitting along time??? Try some Gas Stablilizer and some Dry Gas in the tank, then add some fresh gas and see if it starts any easyer. You could have a problem with fuel getting to the fuel rail, meaning the fuel pump is not pushing enought pressure at start up, if you can, get a pressure reading at the scherder valve. Then there are a couple of other checks to go thru, like fuel pump relay, ballast resistor. Regardless, change out the fuel filter. Also, drop a note what year your Comanche is.

How fresh is the gas??? Alot of sitting, and in Florida.......I would guest that you collected condensation in the tank, try some Gas Stabilizer and some Dry Gas in the tank now, and add some fresh gas. Try this first before you start changing sensors, and see how it runs.

Alex - Were you gone......didn't even notice :D :teehee: Well, anyways.......Welcome back :waving: :typing:

Twisty - Nice find, you say you got it for FREE??? Humm.....you better double check what you got there, you might not need the title, But you got a gold mine in parts, My next door neighbor in into them, and parts are......well, lets just say, if it has a PTO output on it, that's worth more that what the thing sold off the show room floor. I'll pass this on to the neighbor, he might need some parts for his '46 CJ2A :brows: He drove to Delware last year just to Look at a frame that was for sale for $250, and didn't like it, and came home empty handed. Nice find, Keep finding them :thumbsup:

If you are putting it in a 91+ you will be ok, If something older then a 91 bet you have missed something :teehee: Charles Now, Charles, why would you say something like that :???: Rocky......you better have saved Every Thing, even the door post switches, and every wire, and don't call me, Charles has cleaned me out :D

Gee.....You must be think of the '88 plow MJ, this one - But this MJ, unlike your, is on the road with plates, along with the swb red '89 ;) And FYI All MJ are Flairside style beds, there were no Step-sides style. dfreeman616 - No, I'll say that your has got to be the Rusty box on this site, and the one you refered to on the far left was bad, but that MJ don't exist any more.......well, in smaller pieces, on the pile of scrap :eek: And back to the OP - (Note: On Topic Rockhard) mikec - Welcome to the ComancheClub :wavey: Waiting to see them pictures of that special buy you got. And I really don't see going to leafs on the front, Ask Dirty about that.

Oh yeah Eagle Don't I know it! :headpop: I had figured on giving it a coat of paint, then sealing it up with some realy thick roofing tar, or maybe some sort of caulk. Any suggestions on what to use? Would be a good job for POR 15 ;) But for some type of caulk, use a Polyurethane base material, sticks to anything and everything, dries simi-hard, and still flexable, and will out last, well, everything. You can pick some up at any big box home center. And color's too :brows:

Gee.....Thanks for the plug Charles :D I would 2nd the used motor idea, much less $$ way of up grading, that way you don't have a thousand dollar MJ with a 3 thousand engine in it :eek: There are alot of good use motor to be had for the price, even if you find a rotted out XJ, or totalled one, there's the engine. I would just look for something with less that 125K on the clock. I was thinking the same thing about rejeep, I do think he is in your area, you should contact him, if he is pulling engines, I'm sure he can put one back in :D I would say if your MJ is in Show room condition, then spent the $$ and get a high preformance engine, spend some serious money, and keep it that way. If your MJ is like the rest of ours, then just up grade to a good used engine, and you'll get many more years of life out of it. I don't think an engine swap would run much more that $350 plus additional parts, but what you want to do is change all of the gaskets, and check all of the freez plugs before you install it into the MJ. If you go with a junk/parts XJ, then you can change over some additional goodies like the alternator, or a newer water pump......so on. You would want to do all of the preventative matenance items while you have the engine out, slide it in, and go :driving: The big advance on getting a doner XJ is that you can pick one up for a couple hundred ($200-500) take out the engine, some other parts, strip it down for what ever, and then when your done, have the scrap man pick it up and get another $100 for the scrap. Some JY's sell you just the engine for $450-$600, and that's all you get , the engine. Note: No MJ's were harmed in the above statements Good luck!!

Yea....Welcome to the ComancheClub :wavey: Nice stock find.......I find deals like that but there all rusted out :eek: Still a good deal, and something to start with :thumbsup:

Yea.......I seen this on ABC news this morning, strange that all that was standing were the fireplaces/ chimneys of the houses :eek: Glad to hear that the worst bi-pass your place. That's one thing I would not want to experance. Good luck with your efforts :thumbsup:

Yea, I can......" Let the drilling begin " :D Wow....full 1 HP, and 3/4" cap' ....yup, that's a real drill press. Going with annular bits are alot more $$ but in the long run, much more production, and larger hole capacity. A good way to go in the long run. Con'grads on your new toy......ah, er, tool :D

I know, you got to use what ya got :D But one tip, if you can get a Copper backing plate (alumium will work in a pinch) the plate will displace the heat, and help with burn thru, plus, if you burn thru, you can fill on top of the copper, as weld will not stick to the copper plate. I know it's not posible to get to the back side of every weld, but over all, it will help you, and if your doing over lay work, drill/punch some holes in the new piece, and "plug" weld it to the piece under, this will help you get the piece set, and aligned. Plus, do short, 1/2" - 1" runs, and jump around the piece to help with distortion. For other tips, check out this site- But this link is kind of what your doing- http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.htm And we want to see PICTURES when your done ;)

Charles - I still have the '93 engine harness if you need something off that, connector or what ever, I don't know if I can put a stamp on the fender and mail that to you :brows: Keystone sells new fenders for around $35 If you need some small parts like the headlight bucket, drop me a note ;) And now that you have a live sample, you can trace down that AW4 connection :D

Well, some of you know that my obsession with the MJ has gotten alittle out of hand, and while I was moving a '87 parts Mj today, getting it ready to go into the shop, I just could not resist taking this picture Left to right, '88 Plow MJ, '89 MJ from York, PA, '86 MJ e-bay special from Lancaster, PA, in the foreground '89 run-around MJ, which I just got done re-doing everything mechanical, Body work next :brows: And to the close Left is the '87 going in for parts removal, that will turn this 2wd into a 4wd- I got to get some newer picturs of that one ;) And what I thought would be the last one for a while, '87 MJ with a Meyers plow hanging on the front- And then the MJ bug bit me again, and I got this one last week- But this '87 will fill the void in the York, PA MJ, like the drive train. Tought finding a AW4 up here. To date, that makes 8 MJ's But a couple will be for parts. So, a year ago, I joined the ComancheClub, with 2 MJ's(the Red one's) and over the past couple of months, it grew into this :nuts: And I know......I got to get a new hobby :D

Looks good Charles.......Did you end up getting the tow dollie then, you didn't say anything about that. Yea, except for the floor rot, which we just see on a white XJ, it really don't look bad at all for the deal you got. I guest we should have loaded up a left fender for you too from the load ;) And I guest you'll get your black rims too :brows:

Pete - I'm suprised that your "slice right out of the pond" don't have one on these on the bottom Kind of works with that Dew can :teehee:

I guest you didn't read my reply in your project post :dunno: I don't know anyone that would rent a welder, I know I would not rent my welder out. As stated above, your best bet is to get it prep'ed, take it to a welding / Body shop and have them do it for you. Very little time, and very little cost. If your just doing floor pans, I just use 3/16" pop rivet, and seal with polyurathane (or Por 15) If you doing alot of body work, structural welding, then you justity the investment in a GOOD mig welder, not a Hobo fright unit. Stick welders are not very good with 24 gauge sheet metal, burn right thru, and .023 solid wire w/shielding gas is the best for sheet metal. (Charles - good deal on the Clarke - good machine) :brows:

Welcome to the ComancheClub :wavey: And thanks for saving another MJ from the crusher :bowdown: Got to love what some PO's did to the poor thing :eek: Keep us posted on the progress