Wildman

Check this out from 'Blhtaz'- Does a complete run down on the springs - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... c85da21eb6

If your talking about Chrysler Parts Direct (Mopar) Forget them, I called them last year, there's not a single part on there listing in stock or anywhere to be found for a MJ :cry: Every part I asked for, the guy on the phone just said.....Junk Yard every time :nuts: Face it, we're on our own to find the odd ball parts.

Here's the sticker from my '88- And NO.....I didn't buy it new, did get if from the original owner thought :D

Well.....seeing that my sister just sent this to me today - Tis the season and all - deer santa: I wud like a kool toy space ranjur fer Xmas. Iv ben a gud boy all yeer. Yer Frend, BiLLy Dear Billy, Nice spelling. You're on your way to a career in lawn care. How about I give you a frigging book so you can learn to read and write? I'm giving your older brother the space ranger. At least HE can spell! Santa Dear Santa, I have been a good girl all year, and the only thing I ask for is peace and joy in the world for everybody! Love, Sarah Dear Sarah, Your parents smoked pot when they had you, didn't they? Santa Dear Santa, I don't know if you can do this, but for Christmas, I'd like for my mommy and daddy to get back together. Please see what you can do. Love, Teddy Dear Teddy, Look, your dad's banging the babysitter like a screen door in a hurricane. Do you think he's gonna give that up to come back to your frigid, fat mom, who rides his @$$ constantly? It's time to give up that dream. Let me get you some nice Legos instead. Maybe you can build yourself a family with those? Santa Dear Santa, I want a new bike, a Play station, a train, some G.I. Joes, a dog, a drum kit, a pony and a tuba. Love, Francis Dear Francis, Who names their kid 'Francis' nowadays? I'm giving you a doll instead because I bet you're ghey. Santa Dear Santa , I left milk and cookies for you under the tree, and I left carrots for your reindeer outside the back door. Love, Susan Dear Susan, Milk gives me the $#!&amp;s and carrots make the deer fart in my face when riding in the sleigh. You want to do me a favor? Two words, Jim Beam. < BR>Santa Dear Santa, What do you do the other 364 days of the year? Are you busy making toys? Your friend, Thomas Dear Thomas, All the toys are made by little kids like you in China . Every year I give them a slice of bread as a Christmas bonus. I have a condo in Vegas, where I spend most of my time making low-budget porno films. I unwind by drinking myself silly and squeezing the asses of cocktail waitresses while losing money at the craps table. SantaP.S. Tell your mom she got the part. Dear Santa, Do you see us when we're sleeping, do you really know when we're awake, like in the song? Love, Jessica Dear Jessica, Are you really that gullible? Good luck in whatever you do. I'm skipping your house. Santa Dear Santa, I really really want a puppy this year. Please please please PLEASE PLEASE could I have one? Timmy Timmy, That whiney begging $#!&amp; may work with your folks, but that crap doesn't work with me. You're getting an ugly sweater again. Santa Dearest Santa, We don't have a chimney in our house, how do you get into our home? Love, Marky Mark, First, stop calling yourself 'Marky', that's why you're getting your @$$ kicked at school. Second, you don't live in a house, you live in a low-rent, ghetto apartment complex. Third, I get inside your pad just like all the burglars do, through your bedroom window. Sweet Dreams, Santa :D

Well, if you have a '89 MJ, you'll have the NP 231 for a transfer case, and that is a 'Shift on the Fly' type case. Yes, you can shift from 2wd > 4wd high from a dead stop, moving, anytime, Just not at high speeds, like 65 mph, you can shift from 4wd high > 2wd the same way. You Need to come to a complete stop to shift to 4wd Low. and stoped to shift out of 4wd Low. Don't drive on DRY pavement in 4wd, the front and rear wheels Need to be able to slip some what or you'll bind up the transfer case and blow that out.

:D

:eek: I didn't think it would sell for almost $8K, I thought it would be around the $7K range, but :eek: So my guest was $1166 to low, oh well, I didn't need the air freshener that bad :cry: After 1999MJ checked it out, and told us about the condition, If any one had that much interest in it, they would have looked at it in person too, buying something for that kind of $$ needs a look thru. Buyer be-wear comes to mind :brows: This is kind of good seeing what some of these MJ's are going for, kind of makes my herd a little more valuable now :D And, I was thinking about the low mileage on that MJ, I wonder how long the speed-o cable was broke :roll:

Yes, It could have, There was a Service Bulletin latter that added the Ballast Resistor to the '87, Thru the Dealer Service. 2 '87 MJ's I parted out this summer, nether had the Ballast Resistor. The one '87 MJ I have parked now, No Ballast Resistor. The '88 and '89's have the Ballast Resistor.

Yea.....aways the simple things.....like the ballast resistor :brows: From what I remember, you should replace the ballast resistor, It's like a $7-9 part, it is designed to make the pump run quieter and last longer than having full voltage applied all the time, after start up. although, '87's did not have the ballast resistor installed. Does this make a big difference :dunno: Well, glad to hear you had a simple problem to fix......this time :D

I would check the fuel pressure first, you can get a 'cheep' gauge for this, and see if the pressure is up to spec's, And if you have not changed the fuel filter in some time, will not hurt to change that out. Check the body ground, that grounds the tail lights and the fuel pump. In fact, check all the grounds, battery to engine - engine to body. Check the ballast resistor on the left front fender, even by-pass it to see if this is causing your problem. Check the CPS at the connector, the wires and do a reading on the CPS, and even go as far as replacing the sensor. A real pain, but something is causing you to cut out. Leave this for last.

Rquarte - I would say that '91 Eliminator is NOT completely shot. The bed, yea, but that's replaceable, costly, but do-able. Typical NY vehicle :roll: Great runner, body gone :oops: (And the bullet holes too :teehee: ) Other wise, the 4wd Eliminator is a rare MJ, and for a '91, yea. If it's at the right price, and the frame is not rodded out, and mileage is not real high, might be a good find. But I would check it over really good if the price was a little high, like check the floor boards, I'm sure there gone with the rockers the way they are, and you would have to figure on alot of additional repairs, like all brake lines, all seals. I looked at a '91 lwb couple months ago, With a factory roll bar, body about in the same shape as your pictures and the guy was asking $800, I make him an offer of $500, and someone came along and gave him the full price he was asking :nuts: Thing is, I've done a couple of these MJ's, and the one I'm DD now, yea, $500 for the truck, and then another $1400 into it just to get it in shape and running down the road, and not leaking oil all over, and braking when I needed to ;) And I still need to repair the rear wheel wells, and total paint job.

Oh.....I read it too fast :oops: Should have seen the 4X4 on the side. ( I got to stop working weekend :nuts: ) Yea, for a '91 4.0 4wd, then I would save it, new box, or even the right side would be the ticket, as long as the frame is Not Rotted out. What kind of $$ is he asking for that one??

If that's the MJ in the pictures :eek: I wouldn't pay more that $200 for that. And that's if the motor was puring like a kitten. I've bought better looking MJ's than that, ran had 4.0 4wd, AW4 for $300 and better looking body that that. Just a rodded out frame. I said in my reply, a little rust over the wheel well, that don't even have a wheel well left. Oh, it's repairable, but for a 2.5, 2wd :shake: There are a lot better MJ's out there that that one, for the $$

The trim is just held in place with some plastic clips (that are some times in bedded in the sealant) just pry off the trim from the glass side/edge, and it will pop right off, start on the top piece, down the sides, across the bottom, and done ;)

1999MJ - Thanks for the update :D I think you said it all 'Pictures can be deceiving" Well......I'll still stick to my high bid number, and with 4 days to go, and sitting at what, $3k plus now, We'll sit and watch :popcorn: I really didn't need a tree shape air freshener anyways :cry: I still think the thing will go for a good number, that plow is a hot item right now, tis the season and all, I've seen plows in this area for XJ's going for $950-1100 on the high end. Thanks for checking that MJ out and letting us know ;)

We'll be waiting for your report 1999MJ :popcorn:

If the truck is in good mechanical shape, runs good, low / average milage and priced right, don't let a little sheet metal rust hold you back. If the frame / uni-body is rusted out, yea, it's a junker, but alittle sheet metal around the wheel well........ever one I own has the same problem, eather the floor board were rusted out, or the rear wheel wells. Has nothing to do with the 'turn the key and go' So there not that great of curb appeal, so what, they run great, drive great, and keep on going :D If it a perfect 20 year old truck, with no rust, and perfect paint job, well, it's been stored in a climate controll room for the past 20 years, or it been re-painted, and worth a fortune. The best thing you can do is use the little amount of rust to your advantage, hagel down the asking price, tell the seller you'll take it, but the body work and paint job will cost XX$ and work some of that off the asking price :brows: Just keep in mind, these trucks are 18-20 years old, and the seals are all shot or dry rotted, and the brake lines are about gone, if not already replaced, so if the seller has not done anything to the truck, expect alot of repairs down the road. Or just get it, go thru it, replace / repair everything at once, and then your good to go.

I think you answered your own question - I would think you have a problem with the ignition switch, shutting down, or not making correct contact to keep the fuel pump relay on line. Could have been the problem all along, hit a bump in the road, switch gigles loose, shuts off ignition for a split second, shuts off fuel pump.....and so on. Yea, wiring the fuel pump direct to the battery is not a great idea, well, it got you to point 'B' but your pump was still pushing fuel when you shut it off, and well, you heard the results. I know you changed alot of parts, but, some time it's just the little things, like a ignition switch that screws alot of other things up, or just a bad ground wire, and your changing tons of sensors and relays cause of a bad ground. Put the new $16 ingnition switch in, and see what happens, bet it solves a few other problem too.

I think once you get to the wiring, you will find that the factory used an 'open' crimp connector to splice the wires, IE: running lights. This is where your problem could be coming from. Ones I have found, the crimp and the wire are all corroded (green color) Just cut the crimp out, and cut the wire back until you get rid of the corrosion, clean copper color wire. I use "B" caps to splice the wires, filled with die-electric grease, and crimp them on. CW is right, clean any and all connectors you find with Contact Cleaner, and then pack them full of die-electric grease. Also while you got every thing apart, check the ground wire behind the left tail light, even scrap off some paint, and re-mount it with a new tek screw, and coat it with the grease. You'll not only solve your problem now, but future problems by spending alittle time to 're-do' every thing back there ;) {CW - I think we answered at the same time......but you beat me :D }

I'll PM you, were getting off topic here :teehee:

:hmm: Now I remenber were I left that plow And I take it you want the coil air bag too????

Hey wahoosteeler - I'll get into this game with you :brows: The way the bidding is going just the first few days........hummm....... I'll say it's going to top out at the winning bid of.......$6,785.00 If everyone read the discription in the e-bay add, yea, from an estate, never hit the road. I'll buy the milage at under 13K That truck has a repaint, no side decails, and no badges. That plow is a factory set up, you can tell from the front bumper, with the extened end returns. The Myers plow, 80" (Modle # 2 Meters) weights in at about 300#, another 85# for the pump/motor, and about 120# for the undermount. That's why the front end is drooping. The factory set up also had air bags in the coils to compensate for the extra front end weight. Oh.....how do I know this?? Cause this is my '87 - And this is the plow.....Some where in Ohio now - I knew I should have throw this up on e-bay before I parted out the plow :cry: And that MJ only has 76K on the clock :brows: But mine was missing the front bumper. And you can see what plowing does to the fenders and the rest of the body :eek: Still a nice MJ on that e-bay auction, I'll stick with my guest ;) And I like the Snoway plow much better, weights 360# total. Just don't have a picture of that right now, on one of the '89's

PM sent ;)

Yea, I was watching that one, surprised is sold for under $2K :eek: I thought the price would go way up to 3+ for that one. At least for the 'nice' paint job (but bad interior) feerocknok - Kind of odd that you would buy the whole MJ just for the steering wheel :nuts: But I know where one is in Red :brows: You know how to get hold of me :D

You might want to check / adjust the T-case linkage, it sounds like it's popping out of gear, I had this problem after a clutch change, took me 3 times to get the linkage right. Also check ALL the front U-joints, one bad one would cause a clunk. When was the last time you checked / changed the t-case fluid?? At worst, put the truck up on jack stands, and turn the front drive shaft by hand to see if it engages, or loose, or turning the rear drive shaft when in 4wd. I wouldn't change out the vacuum system, but would lock the front CAD if your having problems with the shift motor, or replace the shift motor. IIRC......when you shift out of 4wd to 2wd, the front stay locked for a short time, or back up 20+ feet to unlock the front axle.