Wildman

Same here.......just seen the PM ;)

mvusse - If you want, I can toss a couple LCA in your pile-O-parts ;) let me know. They will be good used arm.

Loved them old F250's :yes: Had a '68 2wd with the 360, 4 speed, the truck never died......30 years ago :cry: Oh.....and welcome to the CC :waving:

No, the Light Gray and the Dark Gray glass are both the same price :D Actually less that that, I got you marked down for 3 JT, and a couple of other inquires :D

OK.....drop me a PM and your shipping info, and I'll give you the details :D

Update - Seeing how our Comanche's are 20 years old, there are only some accessories available any more :cry: So, with checking this out, calling to find out whats on the market, this is what's available- Rear Slider This unit is available in Light Gray glass OR Dark Gray glass. And only the 4 panel is available, the 3 panel is discontinued, the power slider is discontinued. As far as price - One- EDV700BT will cost $132.50 and I will include two tubes of Urethane with each unit. Shipping will be between $20 - $32 depending on your location. Now I know there selling on e-bay for less, and the only thing I can come up with is old stock?? bought 500 of them and trying to dump them?? Could be a gasket set unit?? I don't know :dunno: So.....if anyone is interested, drop me a PM and we'll take it from there. Yes, there is a discount for buying 50 of them, but the discount is not that great. I also looked into this Sun RoofAnd if anyone is interested in this, the price will be $143 plus shipping.

Aww......I was way off, I thought you got your screen name, cause you use to work at the Hooter's bar in Pittsburgh :cry:

The rubber trim?? on the rear window, It's on the outside, just 'glued' to the sheet metal of the cab. The window it's self, stock one piece or factory slider is set in Urethane. That's the hard part. You need some special tools to "cut" the bond. Like this Or this And this is the best tool The hot knife I'm thinking of getting, I have a MJ coming in that I'm stripping down, the body and frame is rotted out, and it has a new windshield that I would like to save :brows: If I get this, yea, I'll have tool loaner program ;) The hot knife works about 90% better than cutting the bond with a cable, plus you can use it to clean up the old sealant. The last one piece rear glass I cut out with a cable, I was 1/2 way thru with it, and well, lets just say, I was picking up 2 million little chunks of glass :cry: Tempered glass kind of dose that :oops: With the slider's, I have seen some after market's use a Gasket and those are easy to remove, just "peel" the gasket out of the opening, from the inside. Plus the slider has a frame around it, which makes removal much easier.

I got my account at CRL just this week and working on numbers.......I'll post up the info tomorrow (Sunday) morning.

Yes, it's applied with adhesive, with a good stiff putty knife, it will "peel" right off, and it is reusable.

I really don't know the 2.5 engine. But you had to knock something off while you were changing the valve cover, I'd hate to say this, but you just need to re-trace your steps and see if some thing came off while you were working on it. If the coil is good, check if you have spark at one of the plugs, that would tell you if there's a problem with the distributor cap, or the wires (I'm thinking coil wire) Are you getting fuel??? Check that.

:rotfl2:

We had one here about 3 years ago, the guy went to a Ford dealer, broad daylight, cut the cats off 2 pick-ups, one of the sales man saw the guy under the truck, but the time the PoPo got there he was gone, the found him 2 blocks away walking down the street with 2 cats and a hack saw :nuts: I had 3 rear axles stolen Thursday from right in front of the shop, kind of out of sight, was peed about that, came back Friday, and they took the D30 and D35 I had there, and a set of metric springs :cry: I guest the guy couldn't get all 5 axles in his car / truck at once.....left nice tire tracks in the mud thought.....all four tires :brows:

:agree: :yes: And have a great time in the Bad Lands

Yea, couple of the OEM radiators that I've replaced had metal tanks.....'87 &'89, the replacements I've bought had plastic tanks, 2 core radiators. Could be just the after market supplier I got mine from :dunno: http://www.rockauto.com And your right NO radiator shop will ever touch a plastic tank. And for what some of the shops charge, your better off with a new after market in the box ;)

Oh :eek: .....I read that wrong :oops: I know, and it's been said that the XJ sending unit is "turned" 180* from the MJ sending unit. Like I wrote above, "re-building" the supply tubes worked for me, DrThunder had wrote that he replaced the tubes also. I think with our 20 year old trucks, we're at the point that some of the parts need to be made to keep them running :roll: And Yes, I'll see you at the end of the month :D

Most all radiators for replacement, in any make of vehicle are 'set-up' for the automatic transmission cooler lines, and as you wrote, have plastic plugs to close off the trans cooler. Your right to just leave the plugs in place if you have a manual transmission. Also you should have a larger plastic plug on the drivers side that would be for the sensor for the auxiliary electric fan. If you don't have the fan, leave this plug in also. Most of the replacements have the plastic tanks, virus the metal tanks on the OEM. These work just fine. And don't for get to take your old radiator to the scrap yard, their worth about $5 in scrap ;)

Yea, that's an option......I think my method cost about $4 in parts and an hour of time. Seams like the same results.

Quoted from the '89 FSM - Fuel Reservoir The fuel tanks of all Jeep vehicles are equipped with a fuel reservoir (Fig. 34) that provides fuel to the fuel pump inlet (fuel injected vehicles) or the inlet tube of the sender (carbureted vehicles) during all driving conditions, especially when the fuel tank has a low level of fuel. The reservoir is a small tray with raised sides that the fuel pump inlet or fuel sender sets in. The fuel return tube empties into small cup in the reservoir that is ported to the rest of the tank. When fuel from the return tube enters the cup a low pressure area is created causing additional fuel from the main tank to flow into the reservoir. The combination of return fuel and fuel from the main tank keeps the reservoir full even when the fuel level in the main tank is below the level in the reservoir. I posted that, cause I thought the reservoir pan was for fuel injected, so I looked it up first. It saids all Jeep vehicles. What your looking at is got to be an after market, which is nothing wrong with that. I don't think a fuel tank from a XJ (Cherokee) would work, I have both at the shop, and tomorrow I can take pictures of them side by side. I'm thinking that the XJ tank is "flatter" and wider than a MJ tank. And you only have a few inches from the MJ fuel tank to the drive shaft. Of course, you could toss it in the bed and use it that way :brows:

On the lower front of the transmission, where it bolts to the engine block, there is an inspection plate, held on with a couple of screws, you remove that plate, and you will see the flex plate, with "teeth" for the started drive, and the bottom of the torque converter. To turn the flex plate / torque converter, use a 3/4" socket on the front of the engine, at the harmonic balancer / crank end, and turn the engine clockwise, every 90* will be a small bolt where the flex plate bolts to the torque converter, you'll see the bolts from the inspection plate, looking from the front of the transmission., towards the back.

OK.....I'll pass on how I've repaired 3 sending units in the past couple years. Correct!!! the XJ sending unit will not work on the MJ. Correct!!! the MJ sending units have not been made since like '94. Your doing this at your own risk. Remove the sending unit. Remove the fuel pump, and the sock. Flush it out with water, let it air dry couple hours. I get 1/4" brake line, 8" long, I cut it in half, I bend each cut end 90* and remove the old steel lines at the end of the sending unit disk. I ream out the two existing lines and make the new steel line fit into the exiting lines. Then I mig weld the new lines on to the plate/old lines. Die grind the welds down. I use RTV sealant (gas ready) to seal the entire unit. Water test it. and done. Oh.....yes, it's easier to bend the tubing before you cut it in half. Using the brake line give you a 'flair' end for the soft line to slip over and stay on, with hose clamps of course. Using the 1/4" line fits into the pressures line with no problem, and the return line is slightly smaller. You could solder or braze the lines in, but I prefer the welding. Steel to steel, welding is better. The RTV or any GAS sealer is just to make sure there are no pin holes. After your water test for leaks, blow out any water in the lines and let air dry couple hours. Install in the tank and done. I'm in the rust belt, and found out years ago the sending units don't exist, and had to come up with a repair for the old sending units. Every one I've done was the same, the 'tubes' rust out at the base / bend. The next one I do, I'll do a write up and put it in the "project" section.

Wonder who the heck that is???? Wow :eek: We're amongst international celebrities here :eek:

Which Plugs did you install??? You might want to re-view this- http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... park+plugs Also change the distributor cap and rotor, and install new wires. You could have a 'mis-fire' in one cylinder causing the un-burned fuel going into the exhaust, causing the back fire. You could have a plug wire not tight on the plug. Good chance your only running on 5 cylinders.

OK.....I'll type real slow here - I assume your talking about this - 89 MJ Pioneer - 4x4, 4.0L, SWB, 5 Spd A crate engine is a good option, BUT - is your truck worth $6000?? Buy the time you get the crate engine, about $1600 and all the new accessories, your going to be up about $2000. If your truck is worth that much, then yes, it's a good investment. If your truck is not worth that much, then a good used, low mileage engine is the way to go, plus, it's easier to swap a used engine in, IE: you don't need to mess with the distributor. Also, for less "work" if you get a 4.0, first generation ('87-'90) there is no addition work needed, if you opp for the 2nd generation ('91-'96) HO (high output) then all the wiring harness need to be changed out, both engine and dash. Plus additional item, IE: ECM. Do you go with a stroker......others can answer that. Do you go with a "Supercharged 3800" NO, that's not what you want, you'll need everything changed to make that work, electrical and transmission. That that out of the equation. That's only an opp if you have the 2.8 engine now. One thing you would want to address, if your going to replace the engine, do the additional work, like replace the 20 year old radiator, replace all the 20 year old hoses and go thru the entire truck, and replace the input output seals on the transmission and transfer case. In other words, rebuild - replace everything at one time. Install a new clutch unit. If you have "friends" help you, fine, but don't expect them to show up on time every time. You will be doing most of the work your self. You could find a "shop" that would swap out the engine for you, and if you don't have the tools and equipment to do this your self, that might be a better option for you. If you have plenty of time, and want to invest in the tools and equipment, and take your time to do this, that is a good option, you will learn, you'll make mistakes, and you'll get greasy and dirty and stand back and say "I did it myself" :D The first engine I swapped out (20 years ago) in a Ford van, I paid someone to help me, and I learned, after that, I did others by my self, and I invested in the tools and equipment to do this. Now, I have the tools to do any engine swap, just not the time. As my Jeep projects pile up and the engines sitting in the shop. :cry: I hope I typed slow enough for you here ;)

Wow :eek: 3 pages on towing. I've towed with car hauler, tow dolly and flat towed with tow bar. Car hauler for long (350+ miles) and not knowing what shape the MJ was in, IE: Tire condition, Tow dolly for shorter hauls (200 miles) and I take off the rear drive shaft, and I don't plug the t-case output. Shorter hauls, tow bar, like around town, short 30-40 mile hauls. I prefer the tow dolly, better on gas, easier on the truck going and hauling back, except for the bouncing around when it's not loaded. If your rent from u-haul, pay the $5 insurance, it covers the tow dolly, AND the vehicle your towing, yea, cheep insurance. If you getting a tow bar, Harbor Fright has them for like $29 on sale, BUT, you need to make up your own safety chains. And I go tow vehicle to towed vehicle with the chains, not just to the bar. Also, you need to add, or make some GOOD frame tie-ins on the towed vehicle, not just to the bumper, them couple of small screws will come out, when you turn, and I know :roll: I take the bumper off, and re drilled the holes on the frame cross member to put grade 8, 1/2" bolts into the mount bracket of the tow bar. And yes the cross member will bend too. And yes, you will need mag lights if you flat tow, or tie in your tow vehicle lights to the towed one, did this before too. You don't need to add lights if you use a tow dolly, but on a long haul.....not a bad idea. Oh, and have fun in the BADLANDS!!!! And that's my 2 cents :D :popcorn: Nice video :D You said it best, the T-case in neutral is "FREE SPOOLING"