Wildman

JT........this is still working..........Saved me $18 on todays order :banana: Thanks :thumbsup:

Not on hand, couple days I can post up some pictures of my set-up :D

Easy fix.........just mount it on the XJ's "rocking" brackets :D Although, it will sit a little higher than stock :hmm:

I think it's a 50 or 60 amp fuse (circuit breaker) Never popped it yet.....just there for safety in case something gets shorted out :eek:

I see you turned the MJ around in the garage in case you ran out of room for the drive train pull :D

From what I read........it sounds like you have a battery for the vehicle and a battery for the generator, like in stand alone, just for the generator starter.......Correct??? It takes a 110v charger several hours to "trickle" charge a 12 volt battery, unlike the vehicles alternator which only take a couple of minutes to charge up a 12 volt battery. I have a cube van for work, I installed the inverter in the back of the box, I ran some #6 copper wire, (negative and positive) to the rear of the van, and hardwired to the inverter. I then used the 2nd battery stud terminals to feed the inverter with a fuse on the positive side. This set up keeps the inverter at the source of use, and what I was saying about the extension cords, were out the back of the box, to the job site. What some RV have is a Auxiliary 12v power source, which your might have, that power the generator starter, plus the 12v lights in the RV, if thats the case, then I would run the inverter off that, and make sure you have the isolator switch, or add one, and the wiring and that would be your best set-up, and install the inverter inside the RV. You don't want the inverter to get wet from road splash or just from rain. Oh, and make sure the deep cell battery is at the auxiliary location. When I set mine up, everything I read said to run the inverter off a deep cell battery. If you have a stand alone battery at the generator, your still in good shape, cause your vehicle battery is only set-up for the engine, and at worst case, if the generator battery goes dead, you can start the vehicle and use jumper cables to jump the dead generator battery, until the alternator recharges the auxiliary battery. Like I said, mine has the alarm and shut down on it, but.........it was too late in the couple times I first used it, and thats why I now carry the jumper box, just for the times I forgot about the darn thing running and draining down the main deep cell battery :oops: The first time that happen, I just caught the plumber leaving the job, and got a jump from him, after that, I bought the jump box and had to use it a couple of times :doh:

Inverters are Great!!!! I've been using one for over 6 years now, and it's a big help :D I'm sure if you have a newer inverter, just make sure it has a "swine wave" protection for you electric devices. You should run a deep cycle battery, which I do, and see you do. The ideal set-up is with duel battery's, one for the vehicle service, one for the inverter, that's what the RV guys are telling you, they make a voltage regulator switch for running duel battery's that will charge both battery's when the alternator is running on the engine. here's one write up - http://www.bajataco.com/dualbatts/dualbatteries01.html And another one - http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz ... teries.htm And very detailed - http://www.fridge-and-solar.net/dual_bat.htm (Note: Google was my fiend) But.......my set-up, simple, I run a 3000W inverter, off a deep cell battery, I keep a jumper box in the truck for back up, and used it a couple of times :oops: If I'm running the inverter of any period of time, I start the truck up every 2 hours and charge up the battery for 10 minutes or so, and I run my power tools off the inverter, I work on the outside of buildings, going around the building working on doors, and never had to hut down the closest outlet and use 200 feet of extension cords, I've run a sump pump off it when the power went off, I've run lights and TV off it in power outages, and like I said, pull up to a door opening, pull a 50 foot cord out the back of the truck, and use all my power tools in one location. Plus charge up all the cordless tool battery's off it. Yes, mine has the alarm on it for when the main battery gets low, like 10 volts, but by that time, there is not enough juice left to fire the truck over :( so the jumper box is a must. I don't know if I would "trust" a inverter for running an RV AC unit, but, you'll only know by trying it and see how it works out. Running a battery charge at the same time your using the inverter, will limit your total amp draw on just the single battery.

This link should answer your Q3 - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm I don't have a picture of the CCV hoses, but from your picture, your missing something there.

Ah.....yea....... ......the last time I heard from you was on 12-18-07. Did you forget about something??? Best send me a PM and an a explanation.

Yes, thats the Rear Load Proportioning Valve. Must of us have removed them, and the brake lines "T" in the rear, but the Front Distribution Valve needs to be plugged off. Check this topic out, and also follow the links within - http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4917

Interesting..............I think a have a few projects to try that on :D Thanks for the info HellCreek :thumbsup:

In the DIY department - viewtopic.php?f=9&t=8093

Check this link, it will give you the Walker page on the MJ, with Walker part #'s http://info.rockauto.com/Walker/Detail. ... 8-2643.jpg also.......you mentioned some thing about not installing a Cat. If you don't you need to make up a "test" pipe in place of the Cat. Mine, I run the Cat w/o sniffer tests up here, plus with the 4 bolt square flange, it all bolts together easier.

Not really.........2 weeks ago, I welded up a aluminum gate lock box, 1/8" thick with oxy/acetylene, #2 tip and Aladdin 3-n-1, 1/16" rod with no problems. Get a Good name brand mig welder, either 110 0r 220, with the gas set up and practice, after a few hours, you'll get the hang. As far as brand........I know my next (real soon) mig will be a Clarke. And I'm up grading to 220 for the shop, and keeping the 110 for on the job.

Wow......lot more response than I thought :eek: My point is............yea kidding around, taking little pokes here and there, we all do it. Jumping on some one else's topic and bashing one another........thats over the line. Last week was pure "political" topics, and I stayed out of the comments of those. I don't think thats what this form is all about, or was all about to begin with. I got alot of things going on outside this form, and really don't have alot of extra time at night to go thru all the BS on here. Just remember an old saying..........'It's all fun and games, until someone gets hurt' Oh, and as far as how many times a day you walk by your MJ, or think about it, I really don't give a stit, if your going to contribute to the form, do some thing productive and then post it up, stop wasting band space, and our time :shake:

A fully dressed 4.0 weights in at about 600 pounds.........2 less cylinders........I'd say about 400 pounds fully dressed, on a pallet.

So, for the past few weeks, this is has become a common problem- Under topic - viewtopic.php?f=3&t=16462&start=0 So, I propose a "time out" for a couple members until they graduate from the 7th grade. I'm tired of wasting time reading this :bs: And trying to read the form. Enough is enough........and this is way over due :doh: Any other comments????

:agree: Don :yes: But like I said, it's like a 8 hour trip for me :( Plus.......need a new cuber for a tow rig :D And your right.......MD, not VA........I got to stop typing late at night :nuts: Plus.........I got that Western plow now........if anyone is interested :roll:

:rotfl2: No, I think it was all original, plus I don't think the salt truck hits that part of Virgina too offend :hmm: One that I pulled from York, PA 2 years ago, the only rust was on the drivers side floor board. I'm surprised you didn't jump on it JT. You could have used it for that one or two snow storms you get down there :yes: Of course........the 2.5 would have a hard time pushing the 1 inch of snow too :roll:

And the winner is _______________ (Place members screen name here) for $2,225 :D If it was a 4.0, yea, I would have been in the running :roll:

A lot of the "common" repairs and upgrades are in the DIY 'section' Like this???? viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11891

Yea, I've been watching it all week :D Found it when the auction started, at $200 :D The same dealer had a cuber go out on Monday night. Same thought here........drivers side floor (easy fix), and the 2.5 :roll: Other wise, it's a great MJ. Super low mileage, and almost rust free body :yes: Factory plow set-up.......but with out the extended bumper ends :hmm: Plus, the front coils need a little help. I'm full of MJ's now........and I have a plow set-up that I can't seam to sell, plus I don't have the time to travel 8 hours each way to pick it up.......and my "tow" rig is in need of repair/replacement. It's up to you guys........I'm passing on this one, but hurry, the auction ends tonight. I wouldn't be surprised to see this end up at the $2500+ mark.

You asking about the interior wire harness?? The only difference in the gauge cluster, either dummy light or the true gauges, is the sensor or sending unit on the engine. There is a adjustment that can be done on the tach if switching from 2.5 - 4.0. The interior harness is "clipped", strapped to the back side of the dash, the dash comes out with a couple pita screws at the lower windshield, and a bolt on each lower side, drop the steering column down, and it's out, and easier to work on from the back side. If your asking about the engine harness, you will need to change the harness out for the 4.0, the 2.5 harness is not adaptable to the 4.0, and the ECU must also be changed out. The best part about all the harnesses is, there all plug and play, all the sensors and accessories have a connector on the ends, just pop the connector apart, and your done. there are no two connectors alike, so putting it back together is not a problem. I would still change out the interior harness for the 4.0.

For a D35, you need the 1-3/4" X 9 Shoes. The 2-1/2" are for a D44......if your lucky enough to have one :roll: Also.....here's a little DIY on the rear brakes...... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... ervice.htm Note the location of the shoes, one is longer surfaced (rear) that the other.

First of all.......you have a Pressure tank, not a "reservoir bottle" This is apt to leak thru the plastic cap, and easy to replace. I'll second the over the counter thermostat being bad. You also have a 20 year old radiator, and for the less than $100 for a replacement, I would go that route :roll: If you have the '89 FSM, check page 7-30 for the fan clutch test. And you are correct, with AC, the auxiliary cooling fan kicks on at 190*. You are filling the cooling system by the book, but the way I've filled them, is thru the upper radiator hose, taken off the thermostat housing, fill the radiator / block, and when the anti freeze comes out the thermostat housing, the block is burped. Then attach the upper hose, fill the pressure tank 1/2 full, run till hot, shut it off and let it cool, and it will suck any additional fluid out of the pressure tank. Do this 2-3 times, and the system if full. Also note that the cooling system takes about 3 gallons to fill.