Wildman

I do not know 2.5 engines that well. Generally back fire is caused by the timing being off. That means the distributor is off time, or the timing chain is stretched. I'm thinking the 2.5 has an "guide" on the timing chain, and others have had problems with the guide being worn and causing the timing chain to "slop" around. I don't even know it the timing can be set on the 2.5, I know it can't on the 4.0. If you can, check the timing off the marks, and see if it's even close to specs, before you start tearing into the engine. How many miles you have on this '86??

I did this "layout" with a swb...........This 'picture' of the stud/bolt locations?? Not really a picture, like a photo :hmm:

Yea, and he's from Rhode Island, not Kentucky :dunno:

Man........you got more gremlins in that thing :shake: Can you change the speeds, like slow to fast, or does it just stay at one speed???? Might be in your multi function switch.........Its sticking in the close position, and not releasing. Try spraying some contact cleaner in the there to see if that helps.

:teehee: I'm even worst..........I bought my last 2 just from a couple of pictures on Craigslist :nuts: Last Monday.......seen the CL add in the morning, called the guy at 8:30, he called back about an hour later, and at 6pm, he delivered it to the shop :D Then I got to see what I bought :doh: But, it had some nice surprises, AC (that works) and Cruse :brows: I got to get a new hobby :headpop:

Fastenal, is spelled with just one 'L' http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex Any fasteners that you can find on the web site, can be ordered and shipped to the local store for pickup (for no shipping charge) also, if you do alot of business with them, open an account, the savings are well worth it :D Con......all the fasteners are sold in boxes/bags of 100, Large bolts and some concrete anchors are sold 25-50 per box. If you need only 2 bolts, thats not the place to buy from, but........whens the last time you threw out extra bolts :hmm:

You didn't really need to drop the tank to get the sender unit out. To test the pump, a bucket of water, run a + and - lead to the pump, but don't stick it in the bucket of water, keep the leads out of the water, and see if it is pumping. With the sock filter having a hole in it, theres a chance it suck up a piece of "junk" from the tank (rust scale) and that's what killing you pump. Every MJ fuel pump I've seen is the Bosch, and most parts store carry this set-up, which is the Bosch replacement. http://info.rockauto.com/Carter/P74155_ANG.jpg

Nice Pictures :D Perfect looking FC.........with a dump box :popcorn:

Man.......I had to read that 3 times, I kept reading it as something else :hmm: (good thing you left the n out)

Don, Us Northern people have to wait until all the snow melted before we even think about doing body work, ya know :roll: Now those floor pans look much better that the other ones, yes, little more pricer, but "ya get what ya pay" Plus, being die stamped and 19 ga just would work out better in the long run........Yes, I seen the rocker they had, might be the way to go in my case :hmm: The thing I don't like about the e-bay floor pans, in some cases, the pan don't cover enough of the tranny tunnel, one I did, I needed to come up the tunnel about 4 inches, and the 'pre-made' don't extent that far up.

:agree: ........But I'll 2X the EGR valve. And like JT posted, do a fuel presser test first to see if your getting 39psi on the fuel rail. Check this link out, about 1/2 way down is the "test" for the EGR valve- http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm I've been running my MJ for 3 years with the EGR vacuum line plugged with no bad results.

At that price.......for only ONE floor pan....... :nuts: At also, reading the add........the floor pan is for XJ's, MJ's and Wagoners :hmm: Almost as costly as this place........http://www.rustrepair.com/BODY_PANELS/o ... HEROKEE.84 Why don't you check out what Continental has to offer........there up your way. Other wise..........I'll keep that piece of galvanized sheet metal handy for you :D

Yea, I seen that picture the other day...........Had no Idea it was your MJ. The way I see it...........contact the guy, your owed some type of "royalties" on this, and if the seller don't answer you in the way you feel fit, Flag his add to e-bay and I'm sure you'll get some results from the seller :brows:

Theres a J10 For Sale right down in Wellsville - http://buffalo.craigslist.org/cto/1208760186.html I think fair price, not bad condition, and comes with a plow set-up for them "Buffalo" winters :roll:

You mean the rest of us don't............ :eek: Yea, good luck with the interview..........And like Dr. Hornbrod said, if you need us to do a e-mail campaign..........just say the word :yes: (or just show the boss man this topic :brows: )

I know some one was just looking for a pair of tail lights, here's a pair in Indianapolis, IN 16 hours left to bid :eek: The high bid is at $76 :eek: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... MEWAX%3AIT And.......you have to pick them up in 3 days after the auction ends :hmm: Of course.......theres some extra baggage that comes with them.......... :teehee:

Only Mr. Hornbrod could answer that question :yes:

This is Quoted from the '89 FSM - Class III Hitch - 70 Series Vehicles The following basic equipment is required for class III (heavy duty) trailer towing applications (IE weight=distributing /equalizer type hitch with a trailer having a maximum gross weight of 5,000 lbs/2250 kg and a maximum tongue weight of 750 lbs./332 kg) *P205/75R15 or larger tires *Full size spare tire. *low profile mirrors. *trailer sway control. *trailer wire harness. *Heavy duty flasher. *heavy duty axle (with synthetic lubricant) *heavy duty cooling system. *heavy duty alternator/battery. *auxiliary automatic transmission fluid cooler, and *4.0L engine. So, your right in assuming that the MJ can handle a 5000# trailer, but, are we talking about a large, wide trailer, kind of like a 6 foot X 16 foot trailer??? That's the size trailer I have, rated at 7000#, with brakes, and I've only pulled it behind a E250 and a E350 cuber. And loaded, it's got some heft behind it. I wouldn't pull a trailer over 3K with out brakes. I under stand you don't have a choice, but then again, your figuring final drive at 65 mph, and with a trailer that size (5000#) I don't think I'd be hitting the thruway with it :roll: Good luck.

X2 After you get the mount re-attached to the engine, do a very good check on the oil filter adapter, and check the oil pan out really well. If your lucky, you might have just punched a hole in the oil filter........if not, good chance you punched a hole in the oil pan :eek:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=94961 ( I did the 3/8" grind down )

This is the best I can pull up........ http://www.rol.ac.psiweb.com/jeep/xj_88 ... agrams.pdf Check pages 6 and 10. The brake switch feeds thru the turn signal also, and some times the turn signal stalk is the problem to what your having. Also the brake lites feed thru the 4 way flashers, check if the flasher are working.......at all 4 corners, and at worst (easiest) change out the flasher unit, or just swap the 2 flasher units to see if that where your problem lies.

Here's a few topics on what your looking for - viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16115&hilit=power+windows viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16111&hilit=power+windows viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14944&hilit=power+windows viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14582&hilit=power+windows viewtopic.php?f=2&t=12970&hilit=power+windows

First of all............I don't think I would be pulling a 5000# trailer with a 3500# truck :hmm: Your having problems getting up and going............what about stopping??? The general rule of thumb is to tow with something heaver that what your towing. Second..........You can upgrade to a 8.25 rear that would be a better choice than the D35, and might even be able to find one with 4.10 gears from a XJ with the 2.5 and auto tranny in it. That would be a closer swap for the D35, just burn on some new spring perches (SUA) Then you would need to change out your D30 with the same gear ratio, and change your speedo gear, if you want to keep the speedo working correctly. Third.........I think we're neighbors :doh:

Got with Spencer today and hes got the goods. Thanks for the contact CW Spencer should have the "Pioneer" side decals, I bought a right set 2 years ago, and sent it to him, to copy and make the left set, and never heard a word about them :dunno: At least he came thru with the tailgate letters that I found and he was able to copy :D Thats not like Spence!! Drop him a note, I'll bet either he never received them or something like that happened. he is a really good, trustworthy guy. CW Well.........2 years ago, when I sent him the side decals, he got them, we dropped note back and forth for 2 months, I even sent him a bunch of pictures, and it was aways something coming up on his end, I know he got them cause he even commented on how old and rolled up they where.......So the balls in his court :dunno: If You see him all the time, you ask him about them :roll:

Got with Spencer today and hes got the goods. Thanks for the contact CW Spencer should have the "Pioneer" side decals, I bought a right set 2 years ago, and sent it to him, to copy and make the left set, and never heard a word about them :dunno: At least he came thru with the tailgate letters that I found and he was able to copy :D