Wildman

On the float arms............I just measured them for another member here...... one is 2-1/2" and the other is 5-1/2", so there very noticeable in difference. The jury is still out which one fits the swb tank, we were thinking that the 5-1/2" fit the 18 gallon tank, but we're called on that, and no time to pull one apart to double check. For seeing inside your tank, you should buy one of these, then we can all barrow it from you when we need it :D http://cgi.ebay.com/Milwaukee-2310-21-C ... 255a935058

Well.........it's just one of them things, ya know, here, a newbie comes along with a D44, where there are guys that been on this forum for 3-4 years waiting to see there first D44 in person :( That alone should be reason enough for you to sell it to someone for $12.00 just to make them happy :D *Note how the price dropped..........now that it's even a couple days older :eek: * But.......it's in your hands, and you'll have to live with the consequences with keeping it out of the hand of some desperate want-to-own-a D44 person :shake:

I'm thinking you should be able to plug the AW4 harness right into the TCU........you might need to splice, not sure right now :hmm: Just compare the HO TCU with the Renix TCU to see what you have. No, do not change the flex plate :no: You need the Renix flex plate and CPS for the Renix electrical system. Some what common mistake that people make, and get a no run condition after the swap :( The speed-o quill will swap right out from the electrical speed-o to the mechanical, just note the location of the tab and markers, so when you swap it over, it's set correct, there are 3 'notches' on the quill. There is nothing from your 2wd front axle that will fit on the D30, two completely different set-ups, the rotors are different, having wheel bearing, vs. bearing hubs. The only thing you'll have on the D30 is the tone rings, which you don't need, leave them on, or knock them off. Plus, there was a rotor/caliper change in '90. You just need to note what axle you have for future reference, IE: which brake pads you'll need for replacement, for the axle, not the vehicle. Well.......you didn't spell that out in the OP :dunno: I could tell you that it will not work, and you should sell that to one of the members here for $25 as scrap, and then use the XJ's D35 and weld new perches on.........but I don't think you would believe that, seen how your doing all this reading and research :hmm: And yes...........There is a lot of conflicting information out there, I by no means know anything, just by what I've worked with in the pass, and have dealt with, and if I state something wrong, someone will correct me here :D

:huh???: :dunno: OK.......what year did they change the Hot > negative switching, as opposed to Hot switched to negative........Or have I been working with too many door controllers and losing it :nuts: BTW........had a real problem one today to deal with :headpop: Got it fixed with the "extra" relay added from the intercom's door REX :brows: Still had to swap out the power supply circuit board :( I think I'll go sleep some now...........

Off the top of my head, I'm going to say that your good up to '90, after that '91+, Chrysler went to the negative ground, which changed all the electrics in the Jeeps. If you change out the bushings, you will see a major improvement. With the worn out bushings, alot of slop is in the wiper arms, and kind of makes the wipers work really slow. Do you put this all back together, and then decide you need a new motor :dunno: I did one with the new bushings, and then decided that the motor needed replacing, so I opp'ed out for a used motor I had on the parts shelf, it did help some, so that's your call :hmm:

Did you check ALL of the tech pages????? Because, you could have checked the DIY section, and found your answer the 5th sticky down from the top :D viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15904 >>>>>>>How Do I... Drivetrain Go from 2 Wheel drive to 4 Wheel Drive viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13375 Other wise, Yes, you have the perfect donor for the swap :yes: There both auto trannys and the D30 gears will match what you have on the MJ's D35. Plus, the donor XJ has the desired NP242 (full time 4wd) :brows: The only thing to keep in mind, is the '91 XJ will have the HO 4.0, none of the engine parts, or electrical accessories will swap over to the '88 Renix era engine/electrical. The AW4 will bolt right up to the 4.0 you have in the MJ, and the electrical connection for the tranny will plug right into the TCU under the dash. You'll need to swap out the tranny with what you have now with the transfer case to get the 4wd. And, about the only thing you'll need to do, when your all done is get your 2wd drive shaft cut down to fit the New MJ 4wd. Well........read thru the articles and you'll get the just of it. Good luck ;)

OK.........just want to make sure the sending unit your working with from the JY was the same. Others have tried to make a XJ sending unit work, and......... :no: It's a complete 180* backwards to the MJ's sending unit. Yea, but each time you do that, I'm sure your getting quicker :D

OK.......that's new to me :hmm: plus, I don't have anything with 9" brakes.......at least taken apart. And if Geonovast said there not needed, then I'll believe it ;) So........could the OP possibility have the wrong shoes :dunno: The way he wrote, it sounds like the wheel cylinders are bottoming out, over expanding, and that's why his foot pedal it almost to the floor before he gets resistances. Guest we'll find out........if he remembers to stop back in here :roll:

You have the '89, and the tank should have a "Fuel Reservoir" in the bottom of the tank to keep the pump from starving for fuel, there are no baffles inside the gas tank, from '87- '90 that I know of. The pump sits inside the reservoir, and there is a "Cup" that the fuel return sits in. It is possible to install the sender unit, and catch the float arm on the side of the reservoir. If you bend the float arm in the wrong direction, you'll be reading fuel level completely off, so you need to be careful of that. Seen how you 'picked one up at the junk yard'........you didn't by chance get a sending unit from a Cherokee.......did you :dunno:

Let it dry out really good.......... ........so that it will burn faster when you light it up :D :teehee:

Are you saying you don't have the push rods from the wheel cylinder to the brake shoes??? :eek: If that's the case, there's your problem..........don't matter if it a chevy, ford or what ever, all drum brakes, with wheel cylinders need the push rods to the shoes. When you buy new wheel cylinders, the push rods don't come with them, you buy new one separate, or re-use your old ones. Here.......take a gander at this - http://www.familycar.com/brakes.htm Question back at ya, do you still have the load sensing valve in the rear brake lines????

The part you'll be looking for is the "Window Regulator" Yes, many of them are stripped, and act just like what happen to your. If you can get a hold of the glass, not using metal pliers, something plastic, and pull it up enough, to get the snake back into the handle crank, you'll be able to roll it back up until you get the parts you need. The good news is...........your not the only one :D I've replaced a few, there not hard to do. Drilling out the rivets is no big deal, and you can replace the rivets with 1/4" stove bolts or like I've done, installed new 1/4" rivets. And Yes, Cherokee 4 doors, the front (not rear) are the same as the MJ's from '86-'96+, and I forget what year they did away with the rivets, and went to screws to hold it in the door panel, I'm thinking '92+ :hmm: But note - they are handed, left (drivers) and right (passengers) Here is a DIY on the power window, but you can easily adapt it to just the manual window regulator's. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12404&hilit=window+regulator A little info on removing the glass *you'll need a spanner wrench* viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7245&hilit=door+glass And the super duper article about replacing the window regulator - http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Bod ... or_Fix.htm I don't know of any source on "new" regulators, except from Team Cherokee, but you need really, really deep pockets if you go that route :eek: http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... r&catid=95 If you can get a Good used one shipped to your door for what you wrote, go for it, I charge more that that for them :roll:

I would agree, But.......he spell Comanche wrong, so it's only worth about 50 bucks to me :roll: Other wise, it is a nice MJ for the asking :D What's wrong with the spelling? :dunno: That is worth it all day long, if it's not been infested with those metal eating termites. :D :cheers: The C-list add is spelled.......C-A-m-a-n-c-h-e, that's what's spelled wrong, nothing Mr. Hornbrod spelled........he, like me have spell check :D I will agree that for the price, location (too far for me) and the shape that MJ is in, is a very good/fair price :yes: I was only kidding about what my offer would be for the wrong spelling :roll:

I you want to get more pictures, just look up sureshot007 or PM him, I'm sure he'll post up some more pictures for you :brows: (Oh, and here Rob.........I'll help ya with that :D )

I would agree, But.......he spell Comanche wrong, so it's only worth about 50 bucks to me :roll: Other wise, it is a nice MJ for the asking :D

That almost sounds like you want one of us to shell out the 100 bucks and be the guinea pig on this :eek: :no: Oh......and :fs2: :teehee:

I think your a little off :hmm: 4.0 with out accessories = 625 +/- AW4 & NP 231 about = 120 +/- Total gross around 750# 87Warrior - Glad to hear everything came out OK for ya :thumbsup:

Yes....... yes I did :doh: Been a bad week around here :roll: So, I'll try again, but you seam to have the parts on the way :dunno: You know that when they list the sizes........ {Redi-Sleeve; 1.257" x 1.263" x .315"} it really not a bad idea to mic what you have :brows: And generally when you speak of the 2wd tranny, it's the seal in the tail shaft that is listed as the 'output' seal. I'm also thinking that the last time I ordered the output seal a couple years ago, I had to order a 2nd one to get the correct one :roll: Sorry I just don't have the seal number on hand.

I don't have one........But.......you could use a 2.5 auto ECU to find out if that's your problem. There were not alot of 2.5 in the era either. What you could try.......is run a separate ground wire from the ECU mounting plate all the way to the negative post on the battery, I've had a XJ with the same "no fuel pump/pressure" and it was the separate ground wire that's on the plate to the negative stud on the engine that went bad. Also........you can pull the ECU, pull the 4 torx screws out, and pull the circuit board out, and visually inspect it to see if you have any burnt resistors or bad traces on the board from a dead short.

Well.......now that you found one.......and the same color too.......you still need to paid the finders fee. :teehee: Other wise.........Great luck :thumbsup:

I've pulled the complete contraction with just one bolt on the AC/alternator bracket, and pulled one back bolt on the intake manifold, and used a longer bolt, just 2 points X-cross, and had no problems :dunno: But.......I have found that you need a 2nd chain around the tranny to counter balance the additional "off-set" weight of the tranny/T-case :brows: And.......I don't use that light gauge chain that comes with a load leveler, I use at least 5/16" chain for the lift.

:hmm: ........... :dunno: Rockauto.com 1989 JEEP COMANCHE 4.0L 242cid L6 MFI (L) OHV : Transmission-Manual : Input Shaft Seal NATIONAL Part # 710164 More Info {Oil Seal; Fluoroelastomers / Shaft Size=1.26" Housing Bore=1.969" Outer Diameter=1.974" Width=0.315"} Peugeot BA 10/5 5 Spd. Manual Transmission $12.93 NATIONAL Part # 99128 More Info {Redi-Sleeve; 1.257" x 1.263" x .315"} Peugeot BA 10/5 5 Spd. Manual Transmission $26.79 TIMKEN Part # 710164 More Info Viton; 5 Spd; Peugeot BA10/5 Choose: $4.71 Take your pick :D OH, and you should pull the output shaft seal, and the NP231 input seal too while you doing it :roll:

Wow........all this education talk is giving me a headache :ack: Nothing wrong with doing all the diagnosis testing that you have already done. So, the starter bench test OK........you don't have voltage to the starter solenoid??? I read that right??? So, us layman :dunce: would check the starter relay first. :idea: But, did you pull the plastic loom off the battery cables to check to see if the cables are shot/corroded or insulation missing???? Sounds like the typical bad battery cables to me :hmm:

Search can be your friend around here :D viewtopic.php?f=2&t=21162&p=217634&hilit=bench+seat+removal#p217634

Check out Keystone Last time I checked, they had them for about 1/3 less what they were selling on e-bay :roll: If you can't buy thru Keystone, Advance can get them for you thru their "network"