AnotherOldJeepGuy

Based on the part numbers on the receipt these are what I got. It looks like the part number on the receipt is not correct for the nut because I know it was also M12-1.75 and it fit the bolt. The nut that matched the bolt, of course they only had one, that's why I went with the lock nut version because that is what they had.

The bolts I got were pricy Napa back room stock for what that's worth. I had already headed out to do the work before I saw this, so I'll double check for a grade. They seemed heavy duty, not the economical home depot stock. They felt as heavy as what I took out. If I can't verify a grade, I'll look for replacements that are graded and swap them in.

Yep, metric. The bolts holding the sway bar to the frame came out in good shape. I did work them back/forth along the way being mindful of the force and soaked them good with penetrating oil. The other two bolts fastening the link to the frame were completely trashed, as were the threads at the top of the old link, sure glad I got the suggestions to just replace these! I managed to get them out, it took breaking loose force the entire way for all 4 of them, no way I wanted to put them back in. For the ones at the bottom of the link, which did not come with the new links, I matched it up at Napa to M12-1.75 bolts. Added washers since the original nut was a nut/washer combo. The washers they had were not optimal but they will work. I managed to get get 27Ft-Lb on new link top nut, but I stopped short of 75 for the bottom link bolts, at under 50 they seemed to already be 500-lb gorilla tight so I stopped. (I never used a torque wrench from the 70s or so until a couple years ago and the target numbers always seem to take a lot more force than I am comfortable with anyway to click, so I'm calling my intuition good enough). The smaller bolts on the bottom I tightened them until the seemed plenty tight, tighter than they were when I removed them and called it good. The result seems good. Test drive good. I don't know how much effect this has on actual sway, but several of the loud "clunks" I was hearing when I went over a bump now sound like a new truck, I'll take that!

Today's the day. I have soaked what I can get to. Doesn't seem to be any way to aim at the threaded side beforehand [for the bolts to the frame]. I'll plan to take these out slowly and working back/forth, and when I get them part of the way out I'll soak them again and put the back in to get the oil up in the threads. Are these a standard thread I could get replacements for at the hardware store if I wanted to go back in with new ones?

@ratrapp, I would like to swap in a new light switch but I have heard this swap is "a PITA". Having just done it, what is your opinion? Any tricks or gotchas you would like to share for someone before they tackle the swap? Any good pics of the process you would like to add? TIA

@hgeranium was generous enough to share his supply of o-rings with me and he gave me 2 each of the smaller o-rings for the job just in case. Since I managed to get new ones in without damaging them, I have 1 each left. If you want them, just PM your address and I'll mail them to you. You would still need to get the large one, but the 2 small ones are up for grabs to the first one to claim them!

Got 3 new washers in. The old ones were totally flattened. I don't know that mine bolt was tightened by a 900 pounder, but 700 at least. I did not put it back as tight, maybe 450. Breaking that loose was for sure the single most difficult part, but I think I must have socks that are somehow more difficult to put on that the ones @watchamakalit apparently has. The other hard part for me was not physically hard, but with the tools I had anyway I had to do somewhere around 500 micro-wrench-movements to slowly get the bolt out, and a similar number getting in back in. But in the end I don't see any leaking at the first startup and it was almost gushing before, so this has to be an improvement. Since I monitor my oil once a week and mark it on the calendar, I should be able to tell how much of my overall leak this was, and with a little luck it was a big part of it that is now fixed! . Moving on to the next job, suspension parts....

So you jacked the engine up to make more maneuvering room between the engine and things that live below the pan? I generally put my jack stands at the front axle, does that count as body in this case?

I guess if you cannot get a replacement you could get some of these and attach the wires one at a time. Clearly not a preferred solution, but in a pinch. I see some 90 degree ones on ebay too that would probably work better in this case. Just a thought, hopefully someone can identify the actual connector. or https://www.ebay.com/itm/127679278912?_skw=crimp+one+wire+end+female+blade+connector&itmmeta=01KMTSW5C8YATP8X0HVYCH7YHV&hash=item1dba472f40:g:vV8AAeSwbmhpjFnh&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xB2%2FlyiKsG7kSgCKJHLqhIWNgXL8AHcxnYz4BdMxUldxxLwvFO955orUvxnLZlGw5aSXrfh6TwMmIa3LCBvzTwkV%2BxDCYdHP9cAiRW8Dy1bKeRhr%2BkrRQfF3JclKwVLL4s5FdDei%2F6%2B4%2FCjwMMlB412R%2B7N%2Bx4lr%2B6%2BEJAYvP7UsL9gVkC%2BMY7445xE%2FSXcn%2FSO6SGl7jQo%2F4mhVCEkjGzN6xCWxOpPpyAW8HSXWKbPAKC6rwEPWGmm0mAlV5aQy%2BBpUYmRMnz%2BRi0rvwMrU1ugi6Y2gOIY%2FqHpumUtxFSSYlcr0O7IvXm91S9uug6V3Y0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7DW8NmmZw

Can't answer but as a related comment, you might want to install the headlight rewire harness to make sure it doesn't melt again or worse. See this thread for some additional details.

Ah I did not know this would have that effect. Well I'll still do the OFA rings first and get a new status. I suppose I can always remove the bolts and try to wiggle the pan out, and if I fail I can put it back together and take it to the shop. Of course this experiment is likely to result in a bigger leak but if the plan is the shop right after a re-bolt, maybe that will not be a show stopper.

Gotcha. Thanks. I don't have that same good fortune, so this is a repair I will probably pass on to the local jeep repair shop. But I'll go ahead and put new o-rings in my oil filter adapter first and see how much leak I have left before moving forward with the RMS and Pan seals.

I have been putting off trying this because of the anticipated difficulty getting the pan out/in (and also concern that I won't get the new RMS in place correctly as well). @pizzaman09, It sounds like you are planning to redo this without actually removing the pan, so just lowering it. Sounds like it's gonna be difficult to clean the pan and the mating surface. Also, basically, how do you "lower the axle"? If you were also replacing the RMS would you still try to do this without fully removing the pan? To the group, how do each of you do the gasket and RMS with regards to the pan, pan out or pan just unbolted and lowered?

The option to have your vehicle drive itself seems like a controversial option to me.

For what it's worth, I replaced my valve cover gasket a while back with FelPro and a bit of blue shows in lots of places. Back when I did it I seem to remember asking here if that was a concern and IIRC someone told me it was not. That was in Nov 2024 and it seems to be holding. I don't know how much apples to apples this comparison is, but, again, for what it's worth... There's a few pics in that thread.

Got my new headlights in from RockAuto today and put them in. I went with SYLVANIA H6054XV because of the manufacturer description "SYLVANIA XtraVision® sealed beam headlight bulbs provide brighter light on the roadway to improve your visibility without impacting oncoming drivers, when compared to SYLVANIA Basic bulbs". I like the "improve without blinding oncoming drivers part", since I get aggravated at all the new vehicles out there that use lights that seem [to me] to be high beams in my face all the time! The harness improved the existing light even with my damaged H6054 bulbs, and the garage test looks like the new H6054XV bulbs are putting out a lot more light. These may not be the absolute brightest option but I think I'll be more than satisfied with the improvement. Update next morning: Tried out the new harness/lights and the results are great. Combination highly recommended!

Thanks! Even knowing what numbers to look for I can't find this info in the FSMs posted. Interesting, the 84-93 FSM posted looks a lot like what's in my Haynes manual, probably not a mere coincidence!

I took a look just for curiosity on eBay and found several of the Bosch pumps. I also noticed this apparent alternate from Herko at 1/2 the price. Not an endorsement, just what I saw. Says it is compatible, perhaps anyone here has used it and can comment?

Parts are on order. My Haynes manual doesn't include torque number for any of these points, can anyone tell me the torque I should be using at "A", "B" and "D" from my pic?

Well I have at least one example of a 1990 Renix with blinking side marker lights .

Hmm, that's interesting.... I know I had a pretty good visible leak at the VC before I replaced that gasket, so seems like you are on track for replacing that next. Others on here can comment with much more expertise than I where else to look when you don't actually see the leak. Without any justification for why I would do it, I guess I would just top it off the first time and see if it drops a second quart. Maybe it just was not full enough at first? I actually have a calendar in the garage and I write down mileage and oil level on the stick every Sunday morning before starting it up. Of course I am hoping the new OFA gaskets will do it for me, but I won't celebrate until it actually happens .

Just wondering @hgeranium, since it's been a bit since you finished, are you seeing any other drips now?

FYI, if you think you might want to swap these o-rings, RockAuto has the large one (FEL-PRO 70301) currently for $0.66! Of course you can't get it by itself for that cause of shipping, but if you have other stuff to order, you can add it in for next to nothing.

Thanks, perfect timing I was placing an order today!