AnotherOldJeepGuy

Yeah, well probably good for you cause I would have probably asked you to help install it too

Thanks, figures, I just got new pads in the mail from rock auto today, ordered before I knew the surprise that awaited me.

Plano TX

I hear ya and appreciate the warning. I guess that judgement call is forthcoming once I see the results of trying to refresh the threads....

Can anyone tell me the correct thread on the spindle? I need to make sure I get it right since I probably only have one shot at fixing the threads at best.

Thanks, once I get my threads restored, haven't given up on that quite yet, I can give that a try.

No got that kind of micrometer either, but I am going with @Pete M's version and say it's OK. But what I do got is more trouble courtesy (I assume but can't prove) of the shop that worked on it for me last time in 2021. I should have started working on this myself a lot sooner, even with my shade tree degree I know better than to force a connect to this degree. But that's under the bridge at this point. It was very difficult to remove the "hand tight" nut, and you can see why. I have a fairly large die "wrench" but I don't know if I have a bit big enough (pardon my terminology which is most likely wrong, but I think you can tell what I am attempting to say). I am guessing that reviving these threads is questionable, but at this point I don't have much to loose trying. Also while I am at it, I can't really see where to try removing the rear seal. I have identified 2 guesses for comment before I dig into this and cause damage I can't fix. A? B? Other? It doesn't look anything like the one in the good video I watched (https://youtu.be/Yj6f8crrwZ4), or what I think I remember from the 80s, so I am wondering if the shop that "customized" my threads also installed some kind of rotor that is pre-loaded with a bearing that is not intended to be accessible?.

While I in there, I will probably go ahead and replace the pads. They are 4 years old and look to be about 3/16 pad left. Rotors are the same age so if they are anything like rotors from my high school days, they should be good for 2 sets of pads. I tried to measure, but I don't have the right caliper to get it just right. With the version I have, it measures 7/8 thick, but there is a tiny ridge on the outer edge that is included in that measurement., probably adds a a total of around 1/16 to the actual measurement from my guestimate.

Understood! At this point I don't know if the noise is the bearing, or the tire, or both. Will see what I see once I get it apart, probably tomorrow. I won't be going very far in the Jeep until at least the wiggle is gone! For what it's worth, I didn't notice any noise or roughness when I spun the wheel.

The front right wheel can be wiggled a bit, so will be working on those bearings soon. May still be some tire noise also, but resolving the bearing issue is on the top of the list either way. Will probably just repack both sides but I'll work in a test drive after doing the right just to see what changes....

My expertise is way less than the real experts here, but I can start the conversation with my related experience. The last time my truck was overheating it was because there was air in the system. I believe it got in there when work was down earlier, a new water pump, and the system was not sufficiently burped. The air was worked out by letting it run with the reservoir cap off and adding fluid when it flowed and got low. After that air was replaced with coolant, it no longer overheated. If it were me I would go ahead and replace the cap. [A side note here, to a degree (pun intended), is that my current overflow tank has swelled, I assume during the time the truck was over heating. I mention this because a result of that swelling the cap, which has a relieve valve in to top of the cap, makes contact with the inside of the hood when closed just enough that I suspect it causes it to leak a tiny bit. So, if you get a new cap, which could be taller than the original, and you notice a small amount of fluid at the cap, check to see if it is contacting the inside of the hood. This tiny leak, for me, is not enough to cause a problem other than the need to add a little fluid from time to time.] I recently had intermittent belt squeaking. I could tell the belt was loose just by pressing on it to check the play. And in my case as well a small squirt of water temporarily silenced the squeal. I tightened the belt and the squeaking got worse! Then I loosen it about half of what I had tightened and it became happy and stopped squeaking. I later read, most likely here somewhere, a recommendation to "just tighten enough for the squeak to stop" which is probably where it ended up once I over tightened and then backed off a bit.

So I am used to noise in my 35 year old Jeep , but I am noticing one that maybe I can get rid of. I am noticing a roar, well a minor roar but I don't know a better word, as I am cruising along once I get up to 35-45 MPH. It is in the ballpark of an open A on my guitar, so around 440 Hertz. I don't notice the frequency being much different as I go faster, possible a little, but not much if any. As soon as I veer to the left just slightly it disappears, an comes back just as quickly when I return to straight down the road. It doesn't do the same if I veer right, that is veer right the noise is still there and it goes away if I slow down below 35-ish. I don't know how long this particular noise has been there cause, as noted, there all always noises of some kind. I may try swapping the two front tires just to see if anything changes, but though I'd go ahead a post this and see what the experts say.

Good luck @Smokeyyank, sounds like an interesting project! Never played with a PI, have thought about it from time to time though.

That's a great summary, thanks for taking the time to write all that! Sounds like ooma has potential.

Yeah, I should probably go cell only, but just haven't convinced myself to do it yet! One reason it just I am not one that quickly embraces change (as evident with my presence here as still driving my 1990 Jeep except when I am driving my 1994 car ). I also like my landline when I purchase or sign up for something and they force me to include a phone number, I can give them one that can't get text, and keep my cell off their spam list .

My choice of words used in my OP, "alternative for my current home phone service" may have been misleading as to what I meant to ask. I am wanting to replace my current home phone service that is around $30 a month, with something that works the same, but cost less. And wondering if anyone else has done this and been happy with what they switched to. Using ooma pricing as a starting point, that service would cost the same as what I pay now over the first 6 months, at 1 year the overall expense would be $137 less. and going forward, the monthly $6.85 cost would be around $23 less each month, so quite a bit less than my current basic phone. So ooma is probably where I'll go but if someone has something better to suggest, that still works the same, I'm all ears....

Thanks, I'll look at the raspberry choice, I don't know if I want to tinker that way, but I might. This approach is probably about what the ooma service is doing, then selling that.

VOIP is a fancy term for using the internet connection as a functional replacement of the original dedicated physical phone line. At the user end it operates the same as a classic phone line, so doesn't really work like social media services.

Looking for an alternative for my current home phone service. Currently bundled with my internet provider but at close to $30 a month it is getting pricey for a line that I don't use much, but am not ready to ditch just yet and go cell only. I have heard of one, (https://www.ooma.com/) and the monthly price is good after you get through the start up costs. Anyone else use this? Other options you use and are happy with?

More than one way, but here is how I do it 1. Take a picture on my phone 2. Email that picture to myself 3. Check my email on my computer 4. Save the picture from the email somewhere on my computer, in my case I drag the picture from the email to the computer desktop 5. Start a message in this forum 6. Drag the picture into the forum post.

Please post how it works out, and with some pictures if you can!

I have often put jack stands under the front axle but that was not chosen by any actual documentation. But when the height is sufficient and I am not pulling wheels I prefer my ramps.

You're welcome! And I totally agree, pictures help tremendously!

Thanks for the video @Airborne Janitor. Cool to see what is really in there. I am curious about a couple things and would like to hear the thoughts you and maybe the other experts on here might add just for fun. One, might a heat gun work to melt the glue and get it apart without cutting? The other thing is I am wondering how helpful it is to replace only 1 of the 4 "filters". I get that the filter you access easily may be the only one that is officially a "filter", but it seems if the other 3 "filter like" foam pieces are still dirty, cleaning 1 of 4 isn't doing a lot. Comments?

Some of my recent learning experience here which includes some pics that helped me locate and eventually check/tighten the manifold bolts...