AnotherOldJeepGuy

Once you are done with it, if I am understanding correctly you don't intend to use it in the end, I'd wouldn't mind being the next owner of this item if you are interested in passing it on when you don't need it anymore. I'd like to eventually add gauges to my 1990 that currently just has lights....

Thanks, glad to see this post! I am pretty sure mine is going to need replaced sometime soon. I replaced the thermal resistor block about 6 months ago when I lost all but high speed. With the new resistor block I got back all 4 speeds, but lately I have to switch to high, or high-1 to get it started, then I can dial it down and still get the slower speeds. And sometime the fan gets a little noisy for a while when I start it, but not that often (yet)! So, it's on the list.

NAPA's website doesn't think this fits, but I am guessing the expertise here is more accurate than that of the NAPA website!

Got it, thanks!

Searching for "4.5 1/2" seems to overwhelmingly return lug nuts sized "1/2-20". Is this the same thing?

Yeah, it's a fantasy rather than hope!

True, I should have said "I am holding out for the a new 2-door Gladiator with a Comanche sized bed."

I am holding out for the 2-door Gladiator with a Comanche sized bed. Granted, I anticipate a wait most likely longer than I have....

I sure wish my 1990 looked as good as yours! I assume you must have gotten it repainted. I did ask a shop once if they would quote a repaint and they said they would not touch it, apparently way too much prep work would be needed..

Round 2 was a success! Starts with shifter in either Park or Neutral. And to revisit the thread title, Park=Park, Neutral=Neutral, etc once more! The difference from Round 1 to Round 2 was I pulled the lock out farther, and made sure I could move the cable part on the transmission side in and out of the other side before I put things back together. As always the expertise here is invaluable! Thanks again @Gojira94!

Looks like I will head out to pull it apart again and pull the clip out farther, and see if it appears to be adjustable before remounting the bracket.

Round 1 was a failure. I was not able to get the U shaped locking thing loose without removing the bolts from the cable bracket and disconnecting the at the transfer case lever so I could get to the locking clip. While I had the cable disconnected I did manually move the shift lever at the transfer case into the Park position, and at the point the truck did start. So if I can get the cable correct it seems like that would fix things. With the cable disconnected and the bracket loose I could get to the lock and pull it out (well pry it out). I pulled it out about 1/2 inch then reassembled everything, connecting at the collar with the lever at the far location (Park), then pushed the lock back in, but the end result was that nothing changed. How far out do I need to pull the lock piece, it 1/2 inch enough? What is too much? If I accidentally pull it out all the way, does the assembly fall apart, making the job more difficult? I can repeat what I did with the lock out farther, I just don't want to get to a point that I have to hire a tow truck to take it in for repair if I pull the lock out too far and things blow up on me!

Thanks @Gojira94, I appreciate the details and time. I think you are saying once I disengage the locking "U" piece I push from the collar in the direction of the red arrow until is is snug, or more snug than it is with the shifter in Park, then snap the "U" shaped lock piece back in. That's what I'll attempt once it dries out a little more outside from this morning rain.

Just trying to confirm I understand what you are saying.. Kinda hope I am wrong as I have interpreted where the adjustment is, since if it is where I have it marked in the pic, can't see it to adjust it

Hmm, well that would tweak the adjustment. I didn't hit anything or run over anything recently that would have been able to bend metal though. The metal doesn't look deformed in person although I can see that the picture angle could be interpreted as if it was. I'm hoping there is some way to adjust the length. Later today after the storms move out I'm going to see if I can get it disconnected and move the transmission switch through all the gears to try and determine there isn't a problem in there, and then maybe I can find out if the cable is adjustable and how. About 2 hours of YouTube hunting and found no examples that look like the cable I have, and I hate to start prying things that I don't know how they come apart, too many odds against me that something will break, but, it's that or go to the transmission shop for an adjustment there.

Mine is on the column. I think this is the linkage in question, correct? I don't see anything that would appear to be damaged. Weird that it just all of a sudden went out of adjustment if that is the problem, but I guess today was as good as any.

I looked at that section of my Haynes manual. The information there is written quite well for an experienced mechanic, one that already knows how to do it, to follow it. But not enough detail for my ASTM (Advanced Shade Tree Mechanic) degree. I'll continue my search for a youtube video that shows how to tell what a proper adjustment looks like and how to achieve it.

Just backed into the normal parking spot, moved the shifter all the way up, indicator on Park, full to the left, but when I let off the brake the truck went backwards, so the transmission was in reverse with the indicator in Park. It gets more confusing now. Indicator on Park - Transmission appears to actually be In Reverse - I CAN turn the key. Switch to ON works, Starter will not engage. To get started I have to put in the key, move the KEY to the ON position with the indicator still in the Park position, then once the key is in the ON position, move the indicator to "R" then turn the KEY further to the start position and the starter will engage. So when the indicator is at "R" the transmission is in Neutral which is allowing me to engage the starter. Indicator on R - Transmission in Neutral Indicator at N - Transmission in Drive Once started as described I can drive using "N" as Drive and Park as Reverse. Doesn't seem too safe though since I don't really know what to expect. To shut down I need to put the shift indicator in Park (transmission in Reverse) which will allow me to turn the ignition to the off position and remove the key. I'd like to assume only one thing "broke" rather than many things failing simultaneously, so, what might that one broke thing be?

Cool

Just for fun I'll take a guess that the black piece on the left is one of the tailgate rubber stops and the part on the right is a windshield washer pump. It will be interesting (to me at least) to see what the experts say they are .

Well if you happen to find and install the power window mod, I could use the manual cable mechanism if you would like to get rid of it (well and it still works ). Both sides of mine are bad!

If you don't have power windows, you could use that space as I did...

Makes sense. I will look for some Oil Eater and give that a try. We do have a couple coin washers in the vicinity still.

Does oil eater have the same warning to cover electricals first?