AnotherOldJeepGuy

I am trying to visualize what you are saying.... Are you saying you hold the screwdriver in one hand bracing against two of the nuts while you tighten the others with the other hand?

I like the home depot option if I can't reuse. Since I'll need to go there anyway maybe I'll look to see if they have any high temp Teflon, just in case.

I like that idea although it looks like if I want to finish tomorrow I need to manage to salvage and reuse cause none of the close by auto parts outlets stock these, at least that's what they tell me on the phone. What are you using for tape?

There's a short piece of pipe for the top hose connection. I hope I can reuse the one I have, but if not, is this a standard part I should be able to get at the autozone in walking distance? Also I assume I need to put some type of thread goo on there, I have plumbers tape but I suspect it can't handle the temps, so what do I use on this? Can I use the same RTV I will be putting on the mating surface when I install the new pump?

The fan cowl seems to be impossible to get out of there with the fan on short of cutting it in half. At least that is the way it seems to me.

Aren't there special tools needed to take off and install pulleys?

I had a chirping belt at first after I replaced my lower hose due to some coolant but I sprayed it down with some soapy water and rinsed it, and after it dried the squeak stopped, but this sounds more like clicking. What is a bit odd though is that I didn't loose all that much based on the level in the overflow tank. My doctor gave me a bag of water so I could top it off before driving home, and when I got home the drip was not there anymore, and the coolant level was about the same, but I do still hear the sound, and the pitch definitely follows the RPMs, does that sound more like the pump if it follows RPMs

Ah I do have some de-greaser, but no pressure washer. I have degreased it, somewhat, a few times recently before and after replacing the valve cover gasket and an injector, so it's not bad but could still use a bit right in the area of the pump.

At my doctor appointment this morning I looked out to the parking lot and there was coolant dripping from my front end. I just replaced the lower hose 2 weeks ago cause the old one split, so this was unexpected. Now I have a chirping water pump. I don't see leaking from the new hose. A few questions before I attempt the replacement that I didn't find already answered here. I do I need to remove the mechanical fan? I know the electric one will need to come out, and I think the answer is yes, but I don't know for sure since it looks like it might be possible to get the pump replaced without removing that fan. If so can I assume the fan is symmetrical and I don't have to try and match the orientation to put it back? There's a pulley on the water pump, the new pump I have don't have this so clearly I need to transfer this, and I assume doing it is easier with the pump still installed, an possible at least for the removal it will be easier to knock loose the bolts while the belt is still on helping things stay put while I try to remove them. When I replaced the lower hose I had to put in somewhere between 6-8 quarts of fluid. I have noticed the fluid color has remained looking clean since then. Actually since a while before that as well. Can I assume that if the coolant still looks clean with a month or more use, that flushing the system is not a critical need, possible not even a minor need? The main reason I ask it that the radiator is not original and this one has no drain plug, so flushing become a whole lot more messy. Can someone direct me to torque specs on the bolts I will been to remove? Lastly, any other words of wisdom from the experts before I embark on this task? Thanks in advance

Thanks, I'd like it to work, but since it sounds like there's really no big penalty (other than screwing up my maint timer ) then for the few times I want the radio and not the motor, I'll just stick with the ON position.

I heard all the time with I was a youngster that leaving the key in the ON position with the engine off would burn out the points. Well I'm pretty sure nothing made from the 90s knows what points are including my Jeep. So are there any damaging effects leaving the key ON if I want to have the radio on for a bit but don't want to burn gas? (So I expect the question to answer here is why? My ACC position doesn't work. This happened about 15 years ago when a repair shop put in a new ignition switch, and unfortunately since I don't have a lot of use for the ACC position generally, it was at least 2 years before I noticed this, way too late to take it back to the shop and complain.) (So I expect the second point is why don't I try to fix the ACC position. Well, in the days when damaging the points was a thing, I had no trouble twisting around under the dash, often with my feet on the headrest, and working under the dash. The days of working, or even getting into in that position are long gone , and I assume the problem is they put in the wrong switch, or at a minimum put the right switch in, wrong and in either case the need to try to get in there seems to be insufficient to actually do it.) So the easy fix unless there is a bad thing associated with it, is to just use the ON position the few times I would use the ACC position. Is there anything bad happening doing this?

I was able to get the old braid off and with a can of break clean got it fairly clean and reinstalled. I was not able to twist the hose to any position that doesn't rub on the PS lines, which would appear to be what it is there for. It's a shame the thermal engineers didn't talk to the mechanical engineers, it would have been very easy to change the shape of the hose just a little and avoid rubbing against the PS Lines at all. Anyway, I don't see any initial leaking and ran the engine a few minutes to allow the res level to go down and let me add more coolant until the level seemed to stabilize. I did this before putting the electric fan back it just to make it easy to watch for leaks. I measured the temps at the locations shown with IR thermometer and they topped out at about 200 - 300 after maybe 8 minutes, and the temp warning gauge did not come on. So I think this was safe enough. I'll let it set overnight and check the level again, repeat the 8 minutes, then put the eFan back it. UPDATE: When running the manifold was closer to 400, the 300 was after the engine was off for a couple minutes.

My lower hose split. Got it out today. There's some braided stuff on the outside of part of it. The hose doesn't really touch much and where the braid is I don't think it touched anything. Do I even need this? Another question, since this old hose does have it, should I assume it came with the hose, and then my new hose should already have come with it. Thanks.

Nice Picture The ones I originally put in the "?" were from my first look and seeing bolts at those locations but not hole in the manifold to match. I later decided the bolts at those locations the bolt/washer just tighten on the tabs on the manifolds, just didn't bother taking out the "?".

I frequently get in a conversation at the gas station with someone who either used to "have one of those", or their dad did. And about 1 out of ever 4 asks me if I want to sell it. The age of the other person varies, probably mostly folks in their 50-60, but occasionally it's someone much younger. Doesn't seem to matter all that much that half my paint is gone, people still like it

Let's Go MOUNTAINEERS!!

NP and thanks for sharing!

Thanks Pete. I hunted around a bit and did find some how to info, but I think I won't have as good luck with this as I have with Jeep repairs! The idea of a Facebook thing came up in the early stages of the email based group, but the consensus was that Facebook privacy control was too questionable to go that way. I thing we will just stick with the email, works good enough

So my group of retired folks have a very rudimentary forum, we have a great big mailing list and essentially everyone gets everything. It does work, but something like what we have here at CC would be much nicer. Have topic driven discussions. Have the history to look. Privacy from peering eyes of at least each person's personal info. Is the person that started this forum still around to give me the basics of what it takes to start one of these?

I guess I have a pretty decent hammer..

Hmm, I guess I'll have to stop by the dealer and ask!

I think mine was a constant source of a little leak as well, but I was never really sure it was the cap's fault since because of the tank bloating, I think the brown part touched the inside of the hood. Either way, the new unbloated tank w/ new black cap has been working leak free, so I guess I'll keep it.

Yeah, I'll be holding off on this one, way too pricey for me! And I kinda like to be able to do a 2-second level check. I have already purchased the next new tank, I generally keep one of these in the garage ready for replacement.