AnotherOldJeepGuy

I dug up a pic and then annotated it to help me find all the bolts when I was running down the info to check mine.

Never considered racing my Jeep, but good to know it is properly prepared to do so!

I chased down my similar issue, with lots of help from the experts on this forum. You can follow the store at the link below if you like...

Mine too. I've heard this is normal multiple times, but I don't know that I ever heard anyone explain why? So, can anyone explain why this is?

Fun to watch! Would have preferred it ended with "and just released, 2026 will see the return of the Comanche". Oh well, one can dream....

Good Luck!

Looking good! The white in the checkerboard ties in nicely with the white door. Are you going to try to tweak the seats to match? Perhaps use the same checkerboard material on the headrests?

It sure seems that way sometimes!

Pulled the unit and put the multi-meter to work. Ground continuity was good from the radio harness ground pin connection to several different places in the cab. 12V was present on the constant voltage harness pin all the time, and present on the switched on voltage harness pin when the key is on. So the real test, put the old radio back in, it works. So it would appear the new one I put in about 80 days ago (with a 60 day return policy) just died.

Mine also.

Hmm, I don't have an ETR Fuse! There are no contacts for it at the bottom end (circled) and there is no "ETR" printed on the assembly as other labels are. I also don't have the 30A that is shown next to it in this scan from my owner's manual, not that that's related to this problem, just noting it doesn't exist either. Since the radios I have installed over the years, including the current one have all worked since 1990 until yesterday, and I don't see 2 fuses laying on the floor, it's pretty reasonable to assume these have never been there on my particular vehicle. So whatever my issue is, it doesn't appear to be a blown ETR fuse in my case. Perhaps this, and the 30A, exist for some other MJ variant?

Thanks. I didn't know the Beach Boys has such automotive savvy! Perhaps they acquired that expertise working on the little deuce coupe. Interesting that the Clock fuse is not hot all the "time", but now I know! I'll check the ETR fuse, and look into the panel ground upgrade info.

Got in the jeep this morning, no radio. All black so is not powering up. Before pulling the dash trim and radio unit I checked the fuses. The Radio Fuse is good. With the key off, voltage there is 0. With key on it is ~12V. It's worth noting that my ACC position has not worked for years since a shop replaced the ignition switch, which I didn't catch until long after the repair was done. Anyway.... I also checked voltage at the Clock Fuse because even though I don't have a clock, I took a guess that since a clock would require constant power, that this clock fuse might also control the radio constant power. Does it?. What I see is the voltage at the Clock Fuse is also 0 when the key is off, and ~12V with the key is on. Is the voltage at this fuse supposed to be switched or constant? I'll be pulling the radio unit Saturday morning (when it's not yet 100 degrees out there) so that I can probe the voltage where it really counts for powering up the radio, but I may ultimately be back at the questions above, so might as well ask them now.

Should I be at all concerned that shifting with this new cable is not as smooth as it was before? Or is this normal for a new cable and it should get smoother with a little use?

a good addition, but in this particular case sounds like it really doesn't matter much... Ah, interesting. My car has that...

I discovered this loose connection during the job. It looks like it was not connected prior to the work judging from the condition of the connectors. and also because I don't remember pulling on anything hard enough to pull off a connection (but it would not be the first time I did it). Perhaps a connection for an instrument cluster gauge that I don't have since I only have lights in there?

New cable is in! Wow that was much harder than I even expected. Getting the cable routed into the cabin with the mounting bracket key lining up was many trial and errors. That thing can't be rotated once routed into the cabin so it's many trial and error attempts removing, rotating, and rerouting trying to hit the alignment. My last attempt got the key close enough that I could twist it a little and line it up. At that point one would have thought the snap on ring would be rotated correctly to line up and snap on pin, but no, still had to rotate it quite a bit. BUT it's in there. Shifting works but it's a little stiff, I am assuming this is because it is twisted some, and my hope is it "gets happy" after some use and shifts better. I'll post back if that happens, or not.

Got the new one. Cable moves freely, the old one definitely does not. Seems promising! Install is gonna be Saturday morning, will post how it goes.

Please do post back with pics!

CA1177 it is then! I do notice now that the cable is out, the column shifter does freely move to include all gear locations based on the pointer, so I am hoping that means that once the new cable is attached, all will be working as normal.

Napa has two, anyone know if the more expensive one is really any better? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_CA1177 ($111.99) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6202428 ($78.99) I don't see any at Rock Auto. O'Reilly has the one that Napa sells for $111.99, but for $60.99, so I guess I can just get the "better" one from above for less then the "less better" one if I just buy it here. AutoZone also has the $111.99 one, for $61.49 here I'm also checking with the dealer to see if OEM is still available and the cost. Generally parts are not in their system for them to even look them up for 1990, but I sent the email anyway.

I got the old one out. Took about a hour just to get the snap in clips under the dash loose cause I could not find any position that would let me use both hands! Eventually I used a zip tie to depress the clips was able to work it out of there. But putting the zip tie on one handed was not easy! In the old days I would have just had my feet on the ceiling and my head on the floor to get to this, but if I did that today my Jeep would just become my coffin and call it a day. Should go in much easier since I should not need 2 hands for that.

I looked under the dash and can see that the cable connection is in plain sight. So I watched the video below and have talked myself into trying to do this after all. But I will try cleaning the transmission end first just because I am curious to see if that works. The guy in the video does suggesting making the length adjustment in the lowest gear rather than park. I would have though adjusting in park was the best. What do you folks do?

I can manually move the transmission shifter arm at the transfer case to where park is, then at that point I can move the column shifter from Park to Reverse to Neutral (so the cable can "pull"), but I can't go the other way. That is, if I move the shifter from Neutral to Reverse to Park the shifter arm is not moved (so the cable can not "push"). So I guess something is slipping, and the only place I know of that is designed to slip id where the length adjustment is done. Guess 2 would then be that oil/grease has gotten in there. If that is the case, the question is can it be cleaned back to fully functional, or not?

Well shoot! It's out again! I only got 3 months from the last fix. Luckily I was close to home and it was stuck in drive, so I was able to get back to the house. I will get under there again in the morning when it's not so hot and see if I can get it working again by readjusting. But I am supposing at this point I probably need a new assembly. I feel pretty comfortable with the area of parts I messed with before, but, I'm not feeling nearly as confident replacing the entire thing. So odds are if I can get it functional by adjustment I'll take it to the shop and let them do it. Digging around under the dash is just not something my old bones supports well.