jage

oh they could mess it up, put a commander front grille and lights and do all sorts of awful things. *shudder*

Yeah my current MJ was free and if it's any indication, Frankensteinsmj is right on!

Yeah my AX5 tranny is like a 21 spline output and the AX15s are 23 or something. So you should probably get the Tcase or research. I've read you have to relocate the motor mounts in the MJ. I wasn't sure about it so I backed out of doing a 4.0 swap - for one reason my 2.5 is in decent shape, plus I had an AX5 laying around, and the dashboard would have been out of a Grand. The only thing I had to buy was a clutch. So it was a better choice for me - but yeah if you're 2.5 is trashed why not upgrade? Good luck!

Yeah I don't know exactly for strength but although the dent grew they never failed. Tube gets pretty weak once you dent it, so I imagine they were pretty strong. Anyway, don't take it as a recommendation!

Yeah my buddy got some nice leather seats of a ZJ. One when in the drivers side of his YJ and the other went in the corner of his barn! It's hard to see in that seat diagram but you're right the XJ power looks like it goes to the floor. Nothing a little cutting and welding can't cure though.

wives all over the country are going out into their yards... "Honey! Look, it's been all summer. I want that thing GONE."

get us some before photos too!

The only problem I had with Rusty's non-adjustable LCAs is one got dented on a rock and the tube dent just got worse probably would have failed in time. When I cut the one in half to salvage the axle they were pretty thick tubing, so I imagine that any tube control arms could have had the same problem. I never felt like the bushings were a problem.

I put XJ rocker seats in my manche with the stock bench seat mounts and they were too tall but otherwise fit perfect. I had to grind the rivits and punch out the spot welds. Scroll down this thread for pics: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242591&highlight=jage It looks like later this summer I will be getting stock manche buckets, if I do and you need my bench brackets by then we can work something out.

it sounded from your post that you probably have to cut a tab/semi circle for the steering box to fit... What about making a semi circle "bite" out of the passenger side that gives you enough clearence to push the winch up an through and slide it over. Or to remove slide it back and pull through the half hole. If it takes too much out of the angle iron you might be able to come up with reinforcement... I guess it just depends on how much clearence you need/have on the pass side.

Speaking of which I see USA I see Canada.... WTH is the rebel flag? :D

About the shock mounts - can you just lose 'em and use ubolt plates with shock mounts with the XJ axle?

...........or............. ...........or.............

Upside down is cooler.

Ah, like me soon you will give up. Hell of a business strategy that man has.

Cabz you sound just like me. I just wanted a lift and I spent weekends for two months putting Rusty's stuff on my XJ ... in my parents' driveway with only hand tools (I cut LCA bolts out of the frame with a hacksaw). Uphill both ways... haha, I know, can you imagine my amazement when I bought a sawzall? I'm not saying I was a well informed Jeeper... Anyway, it was a waste because I wound up replacing or refurbishing everything... and not at once, if it wasn't the front coils it was the rear leaves, it was the tranny skid that didn't fit or whatever. Over and over with each piece. The good news is the bolts are all loose. :headpop:

Is that like what I did to my XJ front flares? Later I tabbed the back and did the same thing and used the metal to mount cheap @$$ flares - can anyone say cabinet floor molding?

Well now I know to watch for binding- I consider that good info, because now if stuff is going on with the lift and axles and stuff I know binding is one thing to check for early. There is almost nothing you're going to buy without someone voicing an issue or percieved issue with it. (Oh and what are Deaver leaves? Do you have a URL/more info? Threadjack! ) Of course I bought this lift, used, for my 86 XJ before I knew the 2.8s had a different tranny mount location by 14" or so and if I'd have been buying strictly for the MJ I'd get something that fits no doubt but waddayagonna do? Anyway here are the pieces- Upper and Lower control arms and shackles (back) and track bar: Axle brace (back), various bushings and Pitman drop, sway extensions: Subframe pieces and tranny cross member(front): The mount where it goes: Extra bracing in the MJ (highlighted so you don't have to crawl under to see what I'm talking about): And like I mentioned this is used so come to think of it this might not be 100% correct parts- I already know I need another bushing/sleeve for the UCAs because there are only 7.

On the XJ I ran 32s on the stock axles and snapped some teeth off the spider gears... but the axle had like 189K on it or something. I put an ezlocker in and never had a problem again.

well if you look at the inside of your front axle there is a bolt that contacts part of the axle... I think it's the little bolt to the right of the socket in this pic. but it's been awhile since I actually looked at an axle. anyway when the bolt hits the axle that's full lock. If you put some washers under the bolt (so I've heard I've never tried it), making the bolt longer you're wheels won't turn as far and that will keep them out of the LCAs without moving the wheels out (changing backspacing) which would defeat going with the stock rims. Your best bet is to put the tires on and see if there is anything little like this that you need to take care of.

my lugs hit the lower control arm at full lock on flat ground. I could have fixed it with a few washers, but I preferred the occasional thunk thunk when I needed the extra bit of turn.

I disagree my good sir, My MJ has the same problem. I'm running stock leaf springs in the rear and RE coils in the front. After time leaf springs usually begin to lose their arch; the weight of the gas tank and driver constantly putting them under load will make them lose arch. Rustys is not the problem. I know a lot of you are probably thinking "New leaf springs should not sag." Rustys springs are made to bolt in and perform on the trail. They are a soft spring (Not made for heavy loads) He doesnt make them like all these other companies where you have to work the springs in before really getting good ride or flex. Here is a quote from the website (Rustysoffroad.com) under F.A.Q's I would say add another leaf spring in that side and see how it sits, if your wanting to carry a load add your factory overloads back into Rustys packs. (This is if you havnt already) Egg Gosh, that's funny because if that's true how come my RE springs never sagged on the same Jeep even though I wheeled the wee out of them? What about my TJ I've had for 6 years with stock springs? No lean there... nor have either of my MJs leaned. The 87 even had a leaf in the pack broken in half. Couldn't have been down more than 1/2". I guess it's that I'm light. If I weighed over 300 lbs mabye that would make a difference... oh wait, I'm frigging 315! I'm not saying when I'm in the vehicle it's necessarily level, but when I get out they damn sure are. So, explain to me again why Rusty's springs are the only springs I've ever had that have totally sagged after one decent stuff and the rears weren't even good for one trip? Please, tell me again how my personal experience is wrong... I proably should have put a coil spacer in on ONE SIDE to keep the front from sagging. How could I have been so daft? And quote me some more Rusty. There is nothing more I love than someone blowing Rusty's warm sunshine up my @$$. Uh, sir.

I know you probably don't want a 249 but I've got one I want to get rid of.

once I compressed one of Rusty's coils enough to stuff the tire fully it never came back to ride height. as for the rear springs the first time I took 'em offroad they twisted permanently so bad the pinion was at about 10° more toward the sky and I had hella vibration. the spring guy who resprung them and added an antiwrap leaf said they were the cheapest weakest springs he'd ever seen. so, yeah, your problem is probably rusty sold you total crap. :D