Gojira94

Lower cowl and hood seal track done.

Passenger side, kind of the same, working my way back.

Getting the interior of the firewall sorted out. Got all the rust out of the area below the clutch master and shot paint on everything above the foot well. Kind of sloppy with runs, I got a little heavy with it. Exposed edges are getting another cleaning and dressing with weld-through primer.

I think this is what you're after: Pioneer Speedometer Cable CA-3116 Notes: Speedometer Cable. 77" Length. Without Cruise Control. Plastic clip in at speedo head $45.99 at Autozone Listed at Autozone for 4.0 / 4WD but parts house websites are often wrong by application. There's also this one: Pioneer Speedometer Cable CA-3068 Notes: Speedometer Cable. 94" Length. Without Cruise~Control. Plastic clip in at speedo head (I'd guess this one is made with extra length to fit both 2WD and 4WD) $36.99 at Autozone

Oh snap. That's awesome.

Yeah, the clock is ticking for me. A clutch hose for 91-93 internal slave XJ is unobtanium from what I can see. Dorman doesn't even make one. Used parts are kinda sketchy most of the time. And the $700+ for the conversion kit I need to put elsewhere right now lol.

Modified cruise vacuum dump valve bracket. I used a leftover scrap of the HO PDC/ coolant bottle bracket to accommodate the GM style switch for cruise system power and brake light (95-96 brake booster setup with no grinding on the rod).

New clutch master- 91-96. Works with internal slave up through 93 and external through 96. I'm internal slave for now, with plans to go external at some point later. The 91-93 clutch hose works for this and I've already got one in great shape, though it's from a YJ and I can make it work pretty easily. HO has a .011" larger bore than the Renix .688" It also has the rubber sleeve all the way through the firewall and has a positive stop. Perfect fit and rod angle on the Renix clutch pedal assembly.

I finalized the brackets for Renix PDC, coil/ module and HO coolant bottle. In HO models, the locator nipple on the bottom of coolant bottle fits in the hole to the upper coil spring mount. Renix years these are capped off. Every HO XJ I've ever seen in the boneyard has a ton of moisture and crud jammed down in there, which traps moisture in the void above the bumpstop mount. So I mounted the bottle a little higher in its bracket with the hole capped underneath it and used a rubber grommet as a cushion. The coil bracket is a piece of the PDC bracket reused and bolted to the pass, side engine mount bracket. All the metal got cleaned up and painted with engine enamel.

First, welcome to the forum, glad you're here! If this is your first MJ, or if you've had Comanches or Cherokees before, this forum is one of the best around in terms of experience and know-how. Congratulations on your recent acquisition. Universally, we suggest going through the thread Cruiser54's Renix MJ and XJ tips for a lot of things to improve reliability and driveability. Beyond that, ask lots of questions before buying parts!

If Renix computer 87-90, and all associated sensors it needs/ understands - Renix flywheel to make the proper signal with the crank sensor. Plus Renix harnesses. If HO era computer 91-01 (all flavors), and all associated sensors it needs/ understands - HO flywheel to make the proper signal with the crank sensor. Plus HO harnesses. To run a complete 91-01 HO setup in an 87-90 MJ/XJ: HO flywheel, change out all the sensors to the ones HO computer needs/ understands, HO computer/ harnesses for the matching year(s), including VSS setup/ instrument cluster/ cruise control system, if applicable. EDIT: Also need to make fuel system delivery changes as noted above by ghetdjc320. To run that 97 HO 4.0 on Renix: Renix flywheel, change out all the sensors to the ones Renix needs/ understands, Renix computer, Renix harnesses (preferably 89-90 to avoid C101 headaches), including VSS setup/ instrument cluster/ cruise control system, if applicable. I've got a 93 YJ drivetrain that I'll be running on Renix in my 87 MJ project. I've acquired the Renix flywheel and all the sensors Renix computer needs/ understands. Also got the Boosted Technologies version of the TPS adapter, so I'm free to run whatever throttle body/ intake combo I want. My rig came to me with a complete and intact set of 89-90 4.0 Renix harnesses and computer, so that drove my decisions on doing Renix control of an otherwise mechanically HO engine. Using the cable driven speedo and Renix era cruise control.

Then, what about the coil and module? There's the fuse block half of the bottle mount to work with, and bolt to the passenger side engine mount bracket: I can see I'll need to put a small rubber cup under the bottle's locator... nipple... and the coil/ module will sit kind of like this: Except flip it the other way and trim it first and then drill some holes for the module to mount to: Drill holes where it sits here, and bolt it to this plate, something like this: Then the other end can be drilled to fit onto these existing holes in the engine mount bracket, which I think are for the Renix coil/ module bracket anyway. I'll keep that original piece in a drawer... If I have to pull the coil/ module wiring out of the harness and split it off into its own loom I'm fine with that. Won't know until it's pretty much all in there. I think the wiring around the solenoid/ relays will be 100% fine without modification.

So... how to use an HO overflow bottle with the Renix relay and solenoid bracket? Easy. Cut up the HO bottle/ fuse center bracket and drill a couple new holes. I separated the HO fuse bracket into its 2 pieces (drilled out the rivets) and then cut out another section to keep just the bottle bracket and clear the Renix bracket. Then move the Renix bracket up the pinch rail thing on the wheelhouse panel about 2 1/2" - 3"and drill new holes for it.

"Tone ring" -yes, the number and spacing of the voids in the crank sensor signal. Represent cylinder timing for fuel/ spark events (3 vs 12). Renix flywheel on the left, HO on the right: Flexplate for autos has the same tooth arrangement for Renix vs HO.

Couple more bits and pieces. Battery tray, new filter in canister and buttoned up, coil and module, front lower supports.

Thank you!

And IIRC, the 96 MAP sensor is a one year only thing. Mounted on the throttle body, has same output as 87-95, just packaged differently, looks like the 97-01?

95-96 XJ booster clearance with foam pad and spacer from the boneyard... no trimming or bending needed.

Been a while. Had some stuff happen in early August and just lost all interest... in everything. Then last week a couple of XJs showed up in my local yard. I figured I'd try to make a go of motivating myself to find some missing pieces of the puzzle and clean up some odds and ends in the 'keep' pile. A pair of AX-15s showed up in 94 2-dr, 4WD XJ and a 96 2WD 4-dr. I hoped maybe an OE transfer case skid on the 94, no dice. I grabbed the crossmember from the 96 and cleaned it up. My original AX-4/ AX5/ Auto on the left, AX-15 on the right. Got all the rust off the tank straps and painted them. Ordered some strap liner today from Tanks, Inc. They come in 24" strips, 1.5" wide, 1/16" thick (part # SL24, sold individually). I figure it'll help preserve the tank and bed mounting surfaces. I cleaned up the charcoal canister and painted its mounting bracket. I temporarily mounted it so I could get some idea of where to mount a coolant expansion tank. I painted the home-made bracket for the Wilwood valve and test fitted it for steering shaft clearance and fitment. Looks good. Also mocked up the booster/ master with the rear line and passenger side line. And here's the next dreaded job- clean all this up and undercoat it...

Yeah, I had a couple gaps in there, you're correct about the cam changes, and ghetdjc320 pointed out that 91-95 also had the voltage regulation controlled by the ECU. https://alternatorparts.com/external-voltage-regulator-high-output-alternator-kit.html >> ERCKFRM (for ECU side regulation failures, without replacing the ECU) (FRM goes to the 2 alternator wires that would otherwise be connected to the ECU)

I think this is the crux of it. The 91+ HO rearrangement of the head ports and slight improvement of the intake manifold itself explains the gain in volumetric efficiency, and accompanying bump in HP. I've looked for hard numbers on actual VE of the original Renix design, VE improvements in the 91-95 changes along with the 7120 head, and any further gains to VE with the 99-01 intake. The 0331/ 0331 TUPY head didn't really gain much if anything over the 7120. Best guess is the Renix design was capable of maybe mid-70s % VE, 91-98 HO maybe low 80s %, and 99-01 possibly mid-80s % VE. To clarify, Volumetric Efficiency is a measurement of how efficiently a cylinder fills during the first stroke of the cycle. The immediate way to improve that without changing the head's intake and exhaust ports (think mild to moderate porting) is to free up induction and exhaust by whatever means is practical (reduce intake manifold and exhaust restrictions). Forced induction will get the most bang for the buck, and can take even a stock Renix engine into the mid-90s % VE. Renix can adapt and handle increased VE up to a point, the failure-prone 91-95 ECMs certainly not, and 96-01 with very limited support by very few tuners. The 96-01 have common ECM-based alternator voltage regulation failures, though they can be overcome with installation of an external Mopar voltage regulator and a diode for the ECM. If a 99 XJ that had been crushed by a falling tree fell into my lap for $500, and my MJ had come to me as a rolling shell, I'd certainly swap everything; drivetrain, interior, every bit of electrical harness I could use, ECM, airbags, tea, cake, the whole shebang. Instead, I'm using the 89-90 Renix setup someone tossed in before I got it with a complete drivetrain from a 93 YJ. Even the 01 XJ still has the crank position sensor... Coil near plug is nice but still not enough incentive for me to spend the coin to convert from Renix. BSE still rebuilds the Renix auto and manual ECUs and they cost (at this time) a little over $100.00. Renix may be a little harder to wrap your head around at first but I see no added value for converting to OBD-I or OBD-II if a Renix system is present, complete and functioning.

I was not aware of this. MTS makes no distinction about the arm on their units made for 18 & 23, so at least those are the same.

If it has 3 straps and you're a long wheelbase/ long bed, that sounds like the 23. A 23 won't fit on a short box. Sending unit/ pump arrangement is same for all 18 & 23 gallon tanks specific to MJ. XJ sending units are different.

If you were to measure it per the post below, where does it ohm for primary and secondary? I'm loathe to replace mine if they still work a bit above resistance specs. Otherwise I'm taking a meter to the parts store to find one in spec.

Sway bar and disconnects in. I'll have to wait until the engine weight is in it for final adjustment...