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Everything posted by ryno56
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yellow ignition wire?
ryno56 replied to SwayAwayComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Might be a problem with the fuse block. My '89 had the same thing done for the dash lights. They were on a switch because there was no good connection left in the disintegrated fuse block. -
this is my new favorite person.
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zero bids... weird. I wouldn't be caught dead on that thing. More than likely, someone will be FOUND dead on that thing.
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"Dump Humper" 89 Comanche rebuild
ryno56 replied to JENSSEN's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I saw the pick-n-pull had a couple MJ's but I haven't been able to get out there. Any good stuff left on them when you were there? Taillights? -
:agree: I put a 98 AX-15 in my 90 and thats all I needed. You'll likely need a crossmember/trans mount though.
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"Dump Humper" 89 Comanche rebuild
ryno56 replied to JENSSEN's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
What part of Alberta? Cuz in my part "little to no rust" meant I only had to cut out and replace the driver's floor, and one box side. Otherwise "average rust" is pretty much fit for the jy. Check the pics in my Photobucket link in my Sig. I payed too much for my '89 only to realize it's not worth fixing. -
mine was almost exactly the same as that. I cut off the frame top and fit in some 1/4" plate inside the frame, flush with the top, and then sheeted the whole thing with 12ga on the floor and shaped some 20ga to rebuild the hump (it's what I had). I didn't put the frame top back on but I did put the side stiffener back on. I cut it back to about the rear seat posts before I found enough good metal to weld to. From this: to this, after seam sealer and before POR-15. the other brackets are to mount my '98 XJ buckets.
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I've never done it but I think there's just 4 bolts under the dash, and then whatever you need to do to get the shaft out. And disconnect the wiring.
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that's a ton of work for something that the parts store should have gotten right.
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Changing the whole column is probably easier than taking it apart.
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That's true, but I have heard of some xj's having them. It could depend on the factory it was built at. It's just that the symptoms are just like mine were. I wish I had a pic. Wouldn't surprise me at all if it was standard on Canadian models. If I'm not mistaken, you guys also go the fancy turn signals in the front fenders just above the wheel. DTRL's were made standard here in 91 I believe. My 90 has them but my 89 doesn't. I'm not sure about the turn signals though, I don't think all new cars have them in the fender.
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That's true, but I have heard of some xj's having them. It could depend on the factory it was built at. It's just that the symptoms are just like mine were. I wish I had a pic.
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Those are just relays. The DTRL module is about 3x3 and is closer to the battery screwed to the inner fender. It's kinda buried under the wiring harness.
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I still say DTRL module. If you have one, that is. Mine seriously did the same thing. Changing the light could have effed up the module when the draw changed with the new light. This is still all assuming you have DTRL's as I haven't heard yet that you don't.
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project 1988 Pioneer My first project
ryno56 replied to The BOMB's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Say no to crack! Haha, nice sturdy looking bumper. Have you officially adopted the JOOP nickname? That's hilarious. -
I had roughly the same problem. It was the daytime running light module. I don't know if you have one as they were only standard on Canadian trucks, but it would be on the pass inner fender right behind the battery. My lights stayed on all the time regardless of where the switch was. It can just be unplugged but all xj's up to 2001 used the same part if you have/need one. If you don't have DTRL's then you likely have some other wiring problem.
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Native to the hills of Central TX
ryno56 replied to txjeeptx's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
Love the Eagle! I've wanted one of those since I was a kid. One of my neighbors back then had a wagon and I thought it was so cool. -
What year? Renix's take several cranks to start. HO's start much quicker.
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You don't want light going "up high" because it blinds other drivers. That's what high beams are for. If you are noticing the cut-off when driving, your headlights are likely not aimed properly.
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96 ho wont start in a 88 mj
ryno56 replied to green_miner's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
did I miss something? did somebody delete a post somewhere? Who said that 2wd and 4wd motors were different? -
96 ho wont start in a 88 mj
ryno56 replied to green_miner's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Well if it still has all the 88 electronics, (throttle body included, I assume?) it has to be something else. Did you check for spark? And, maybe a silly question, but are your plug wires in the right order? -
96 ho wont start in a 88 mj
ryno56 replied to green_miner's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I'm no expert but I'm pretty sure you need to swap the flywheel and cps from the Ho. The renix parts and Ho computer won't jive. -
I agree 100%. Especially since I had to cancel my last whaling expedition to OK City. Lol. I imagine they'd have trouble discerning between a well-built custom suspension and one bought as a kit, if kits are passable.
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Meaning what exactly? Does your suspension have to be factory parts? What's the difference between an aftermarket suspension and "home-brew", assuming it was well-built? Stupid laws.. you can't kill whales in Oklahoma either.
