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ryno56

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Everything posted by ryno56

  1. "This posting has been deleted by its author. (The title on the listings page will be removed in just a few minutes.)" It's not up anymore... does that mean it's yours?
  2. I love your paint job. But, what's a "Joop"?
  3. The tranny's the same except it has a different mounting for the tc. It rotates it up more towards the body so you may have to do some "clearancing" to get it in if you go that route.
  4. I believe the crossmember/trans mount has to be changed also google "AX-15 swap" you'll find a ton of info on it.
  5. That makes 2 for 2 between this and the D44 thread. Seems like this happens more often than not. Obviously people don't think they need rear brakes. Unless that makes rear brakes better??? :dunno:
  6. http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=msd+6200&_sacat=See-All-Categories looks like you may only get $50 to $100 for it. For what it's worth I would hang on to it after all.
  7. nice find! I'd clean it up and ebay that thing. spend the cash on something USEFUL.
  8. it controls the output of your rear brakes. The arm on the valve moves up and down with body movement. More weight in the bed means lower body means more braking. That's why that rod needs to be vertical, you just have to pop the rod off, move the arm on the valve up and then pop the rod back on.
  9. doesn't "engage"? As in, slipping and not grabbing? Or grabbing and won't let go? Correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure a bad master/slave means you have trouble disengaging the clutch. Unless I've always had the engage vs. disengage thing backwards.
  10. it's in the housing right above the oil filter.
  11. Right, that's more likely. 34" would be awfully narrow :doh: I knew there was a 4 in there though.
  12. the spring perches are also spaced narrower (34" I think) so make sure you don't go with the spacing they are at from the xj. Specs for gear ratios are easy to Google if you're not sure which it has.
  13. I figured. I can't do any trouble shooting now, as I've taken the tranny off (no cps). I'll probably just pull the head and have a look. Thanks.
  14. Do you have any pics of your mounts? I'm doing the same swap and it would be nice to have something to reference b4 I start.
  15. any one else ever seen this issue? I couldn't find any info on XJ ds lengths to cross reference.
  16. I was going to post this in the driveshaft length thread but that's all about stock trucks... So, I've swapped an AX-15/NP231 and Chry 8.25 from a '98 XJ into my '90 MJ SWB and after reading the driveshaft length thread I decided I should need a 42.25" ds. Easy enough.... Learning as I have to always double check, I measured the eye to eye under my truck with the slip yoke in the original position and the truck on its wheels. I come up with ~40" :huh???: . That's not even close! I'm having it made to that length 'cuz that's what's gonna fit, 42.25" would definitely bottom out on the TC before getting the U-joint in place. Did the change from the external to internal seal on the NP231 change this or is there something else I'm missing?
  17. My donor XJ ('98 4.0 AX-15/NP231) that i got for cheap 'cuase the PO said it needed a new engine, cranks but doesn't run. The story was that it overheated... needs rebuilding. My question is, what is the most likely culprit? Warped/cracked head? Blown head gasket? something worse? I haven't drained fluids or taken anything apart on the engine because I bought it for the trans/t-case and all the other goodies for my MJ. Oil is full and looks clean, coolant overflow bottle is full and a bit dark in color with a rainbowy film on top of the coolant. Rad is low, ie: dry up at the cap/neck. If it's not that big of a fix I might do an HO swap with it down the road. I already stole the drivetrain so I couldn't start it if I wanted to. Any ideas?
  18. You're the coolest, Pete! PM sent. :Canadaflag: :USAflag:
  19. That's the same number that partsource had here, but not one store in the country had one in stock and when they phoned the supplier they said they were discontinued. Like nobody's allowed to own an older vehicle anymore.
  20. I did buy an industrial one today, 1"OD .75"ID for $2.50. I'm sure it's not going to work because the OD needs to be almost 1 1/16" but it was cheap so I got it. NAPA also sold me one that their system said was in the clutch kit for a CJ5 but the ID is way too small, maybe that's the '79 and I'll just drill it out. This shouldn't be this difficult, they're both jeeps. :fs1: :wall:
  21. I did check them already. Problem is they want $20+ to ship a $4 part. Not that I can't afford it, it just makes me feel sick.
  22. Ok, good. I'm gonna stop by commercial bearings and see if they have one that specs out to the same dimensions. Maybe I'll end up asking one of you guys to mail me one. :cheers:
  23. As far as I can tell, they don't ship to Canada. Same with autozone. And I thought the whole point of getting that bushing was because it was a direct fit, not so I could drill it out. If I have to drill one out I might as well just get any bushing and have it machined.
  24. I'm doing a 4x4 swap on my '90 with an AX-15/NP231 out of a '98 XJ that I have as my donor vehicle (It's in great shape except for a HO that overheated and won't start). I am having a hell of a time finding the required pilot bushing. I've done my research and know that I need one from a '73 CJ5 V8. Problem is, nobody carries them anywhere that I can find in the Edmonton area. (why is everything so much more difficult for Canadians?) I ordered a bearing from Novak but it's the needle bearing type and I'd rather use a bushing. Can anyone help me out? I can't find a website that will ship one for a reasonable price. Thanks in advance. Ryan
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