ryno56

Not to get off-topic, but... If you grab that wiper/fog light switch panel and the driver's window/lock switch panel I'll pay for them and shipping to me. Those tweeter panels in the doors would be neat-o too.

Assuming your MJ is a manual trans, you'll have to swap the pilot bearing/bushing. I can't remember off-hand exactly what the application is for the correct bushing, but a quick search will likely find it.

I did a little research and the Delphi part # for the '97 pump says it fits '96-'03 V6 and V8. Something to keep in mind. I picked up a '99 tank and pump, but I won't be finished for a while so we shall see how it pans out. Did you have to do any testing to make the wiring pigtail or is it pretty straightforward?

The only thing I would have done differently is to have it wrap over the edge of the box rail. Your way might let water seep over the edge of the canvas and unstick the velcro.

That is definitely the extrusion he is talking about. I put the same cover on a Ram 50 a few years ago. The bar sits flat on the top of the box rail with the 'C' pointing towards the cab. Then the rod inside the front of the cover slides through it and the cover wraps over the top of it as you pull it tight towards the rear.

Is there any resource to check which years/models/engines have this tank and sender? Or are they all the same from that generation? I'm in the middle of this conversion myself.

Glad you got it figured out. Unfortunately it's a problem only us Canadians must deal with.

Daytime running light module. Mine did the same thing. There could be other culprits but since you're a fellow Canadian and ALBERTAN that is my best guess. Does your hi-beam indicator light on the dash stay on too? If so then I can guarantee this is the issue. The control module should be behind the battery (if looking from the front), it's a 3"x3" black box screwed to the wheel well. You can just unplug it but you won't have daytime running lights or a hi-beam indicator light anymore. You can get one from any cherokee in the junk yard. Hopefully this helps.

With the green, I would say go with smoked. The clear would stand out too much, in my opinion.

I hear ya. If I had the time, funds and shop space, this would be a completely different story. And it would probably be done already.

Those are very valid points. I do need to get the head looked at to make sure it's not warped or needing to be resurfaced. I can do the valves myself. As for your second point, this is not a permanent solution, but a budget-friendly quick fix, if you will. The engine will get rebuilt or replaced when the wallet allows it. Which is also why I don't want to put too much work into the head just yet. Don't take this as me brushing you off, I respect your opinion. You're definitely more knowledgeable than I am.

I am planning on having the head gone over, being that it came off a motor with a blown head gasket and some cooked pistons. My '90 however, is relatively low-mile and runs strong so I know it should last for a good while as-is. I hope in the future to get one of these engines rebuilt but I want to get this truck on the road soon and on the cheap for now. I'm not one to cut corners but my funds are limited. Thank you, Pat for your input though. You said the blocks are basically the same from '97-95, so... is that still suggesting a '98 head can go on a '90 block? I'm pretty sure it can. All the help is greatly appreciated. :thumbsup:

I am doing a full '98 swap on my MJ (dash and all) and would like to streamline the whole thing by having all my parts and answers in order first. My donor xj has a blown motor so my (1st) question is... can all the sensors and such be swapped to a renix block to convert it to HO to put the '98 head and wiring on it? I've researched and all I can find is using an HO block or converting an HO intake to run renix electronics. Any advice? I don't want to rebuild the 98 motor and finding a worthy replacement is expensive.

The second one is money with the black. I'm not keen on the wheels though. I'd go for gloss black or keep them cleared.

I vote blue also.

My driver's side brackets were rotted and fell apart when I took them out to fix the floor. Need some in good shape to mount the old XJ tilt buckets back in.

The RC brackets fit fine but the braces they use don't, I just put a set on mine. I'm not a hardcore wheeler so I might just leave the braces off. RE sells their brackets and braces separately (or did before their recent troubles) so they may not be entirely necessary.

a quick search for "waggy front clip" nets good results.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28025&p=282946&hilit=waggy+front+clip#p282946

http://viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28025&p=282946&hilit=waggy+front+clip#p282946

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28025&p=282946&hilit=waggy+front+clip#p282946

Nice work Man! You wanna buy my '89? It'd be a prime candidate for your metal-work magic. I'm just gonna scrap it anyway as I don't have room for two (read: my wife doesn't) and don't have the time or patience for that much body work.

Do they come back right away after you clear them. If so it's likely a bad connection or wiring.

Not sure what you mean exactly. When I did mine the driveshafts were the same style, one just had a slightly longer slip yoke by about 3/4". Can't remember which was which.

96 has that funky slip joint boot thingy on the end of the TC. Different length output bearing retainer housing. = shortened driveshaft.