scaleless

I have ACC's carpet in my truck and originally it was way too loose - I'm assuming just like the vinyl - but it fits perfect after I laid down a layer of 1/2" Dynaliner.

I have a broken column shifter I'm using for parts - if you need parts from it let me know.

If that doesn't work out and you're willing to dye yours, I have a tan one available for sale.

Congrats! Not long until you have 5 MJs, now!

The fuel pump is normally loud. Renix Comanches have a ballast resistor in series with the fuel pump to make it quieter and I'm sure the previous owner threw it away when he made the swap.

There's also a blue '72 around! Mine was black, but I've been prepping it for paint and I took it down to a maroon primer. It's been looking like that for quite a while, with the bumpers sitting in my garage. I've been procrastinating because it needs some major fiberglass work and I keep getting stuck on the itchy itchy. I'll post a recent pic when I get back from work. Also it isn't really easy to differentiate pre-73 cars, haha! 68 - 69 have the shark gill fender vents, but the 68 has no Stingray emblems on the front fenders. 70 - 72 have the eggcrate fender grills but are all exactly identical from the outside, though. 71 has slightly different fender grill molding, but you can't tell if you aren't an NCRS judge lol. 72s have amber parking lights instead of clear, but late 71s do, too. That's like the only difference.

@rylee144 Thanks a whole bunch for the help! Jdog ended up getting me a bracket, but I still really appreciate the time you spent helping me out. Let me know if there's any way I can return the favor in the future!

Right... I'm clearly very punctual when it comes to updating my own build thread. Spent the last 4 weeks out of work because of my broken elbow and still didn't post anything, ha! Spent the time wisely, though - half of it was RGB-modding all my classic consoles and the other half binging Yoshi's Island. Well-spent! Anyways, the past week my arm was good enough for more productivity regarding the truck. And boy, when you aren't working 12 hours a day, 7 days a week it sure is a lot easier to get stuff done! Anyways, let's start with the transmission! Yeah, I forgot to take a "before" picture, sure me! Got this bad boy from a TJ owner in Houston. Had a really badass Jeep but he swapped an AW4 in (ew!) for its "superior" (read: BORING) rock climbing ability. It was in PERFECT condition, but I'm crazy and wanted an experience, so I rebuilt it anyways: I don't regret it at all, I had a blast. And it is definitely smoother than before. Almost didn't catch that the 3rd gear synchro is different on certain model years! Very weird - it uses a triangle style mesh instead of the hat-style. If I didn't catch that, it would be like that gear didn't have a synchro at all! It took FOREVER to find the right synchro, though! It was some random OMIX part that wasn't even listed as fitting 3rd. It was for first or something. But it's an exact fit. Ended up soda blasting and spraying it with silver engine enamel to pretty it up. Perhaps a little too sliver? Maybe I should have just hit it with alumablast or something. Oh yeah! The transfer case. Came out of my 89 parts Cherokee. Wrong input spline count for an AX15! I just used that as an excuse to rebuild it, since Novak sells input gears! Very easy rebuild, way easier than the AX15. Took like 2 hours, max. Anyways, back to wiring? Got the dash together, with a liberal application of epoxy to fix all the cracks. Rewrapped the ECU-side harness and welded in new stainless battery tray studs. I can't believe I didn't do this before I painted the engine compartment, but you can't fix stupid, haha! The touch-up looks fine, and it's not like you can see it under the battery tray anyways. Also added new front stainless brake lines and fittings, since it's 1000x easier when everything is out of the engine bay and I'd regret it if I didn't. Oh, did I mention the whole reason I got the 89 parts Cherokee was for the wiring harnesses? C101, goodbye forever! Removed the windshield, too. A previous owner replaced it using butyl tape and it wasn't adhering AT ALL! It was apparently leaking because of it and the solution was clearly to fill the windshield channel with household silicone! Smart. All this did was hold water and rust out the windshield frame. I literally removed the windshield by sitting on the inside and pushing really hard. I had experience with refurbishing the windshield frame on my Corvette, though, so it was an easy fix. Unlike my Corvette, all I had to do was grind the rust off, fill the pits, and coat in POR-15 instead of cutting out the entire frame and replacing it, thank goodness! Oh, also Comanche spotting! In Madisonville, LA. I was running late so I didn't drop out to check the VIN against the registry, but if it's there next time I stop by I will. My mother - who lives nearby - said it's been there almost a month. Maybe having Renix troubles? Should I go offer some assistance? Hmmm... As for the fuse block- side harness, what the hell is this connector for? It seems to connect two points on the same harness for some lighting-related connection and the under hood light, but if you disconnect it, it's not like you can remove it! It's still connected to the harness on both sides! Anyways, I just cut it and soldered the wires together way shorter to shave the wiring a little. This is the point everyone screams that it's super important and I shouldn't have done it! And then this guy! What a gross connector, full of the factory goop. Took two days in the ultrasonic to dissolve the stuff, and the film floating in there afterwards was way worse than the stuff in the connector! Stuck to EVERYTHING! Horrible! Filled the connector with some good dielectric grease. Before I could plug it in, though, onto the interior! Finished up the dynaliner! This b*@ch is gonna be SO quiet! Carpet! Dash! Forget to take a picture when the dash is actually screwed in! Random Grand Wagoneer spotting! I see this guy driving around the LSU campus all the time. Too old to be a student, though. Pretty sure the only students daily driving classics are me in my 69 Vette and some other guy in his blue 69 Chevelle. It's also pretty rusty - needs some love! Random tangent over, back to the wiring! After this pic, I put in the new clutch master cylinder. I cut the hole 1.5" dia after measuring the cylinder, but I think perhaps I should have gone 1 3/8" instead. Oh, well! It still seals fine. Of course I forgot to take a picture. Next up: 96 dual diaphragm brake booster + master cylinder, WJ steering box with the nicer steering ratio (both are sitting on my desk) then... then I think it's time for the engine and trans to go in! I am EXCITED! I also still need to button up the interior and drop and inspect the tank and fuel sender. But we're getting close! I'll see you guys in the next post!

I honestly think it's a good setup as-is. Repairs and mods naturally go together because most people don't seem interested in an upgrade until something breaks anyways.

I'm always surprised by how good these look used!

I am! I wasn't able to contact Pasadena Salvage before they closed for the day. Send me the details!

GL-5 absolutely destroys yellow metals like the brass synchros in the AX15 and is not intended for use in synchromesh transmissions - I would drain that in favor of GL4 as soon as possible.

To be fair, I'm sure it would take minimal modification to make an XJ version of the whole kit. But you're right, we might have to hold it over their heads for a while, for great justice!

That's awesome! The reviews don't give me confidence but I'll give then a try!

If we could get a few very high quality photos taken of the air dam and some basic dimensions, I could make a model of it and probably cut a mold out on my CNC router.

Just about anything, haha! I'd prefer to spend $50 or less not including shipping, but I'll go up to $100 or more, maybe, if that's what it takes.

Unless the web guys want to add an alternate stylesheet, the only option I know of is to use Firefox Mobile and install the Dark Reader addon. https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/android/addon/darkreader/

Thanks for the help! I don't have a Facebook account so I was having trouble browsing Marketplace, but I can get a friend to send that guy a message. The nearest junkyards with one on Car-Part are 500+ miles away and didn't want to ship to me so I got discouraged. I didn't think it'd take so much effort to find one!

Come on, someone's gotta have one! I'll pay good money!

Speaking of, this stuff is the bee's knees! https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-50305-MT-90-75W90/dp/B002INX20C

On the contrary, molding fiberglass is very easy. Well, maybe not very easy, but easy as far as reproduction goes. I molded and remade the exhaust panel for my Corvette because Ecklers wanted a stupid price at the time and I definitely spent way more money and time doing it myself than I would have buying it but it wasn't that hard and was fairly fun! The visor guy is clearly a professional and if there are enough people interested, I'm sure he would love to give it a go. Failing that, I could get it done - the Street Comanche pieces aren't particularly complex, it seems.

The instrument cluster grounds on a sheet metal screw in the metal dash frame near where it bolts in to the kick panel area. What model year Comanche do you have? Cruiser's tips are available from http://cruiser54.com/

The problem is Louisiana has the highest insurance rates in the entire country.

I pay about $30/month with Hagerty, who also insures my Corvette for about the same price. My 2010 Wrangler, however, costs over $200/month! It's a scam, I tell you!

Smfh Regular Show is the best Kids show? Bull$#!&, I can't believe they get half that show approved on Cartoon Network