pizzaman09

I'm just south of Erie, Pennsylvania. Real near where I-79 interchanges with I-90. Can be at Presque Isle on lake Erie in less than 20 minutes.

I can't imagine larger than stock tires on stock gearing. I already thought my truck was gutless on the factory 28.3" tires with 3.07 gears. I've strongly considered smaller diameter tires.

That is the main ground strap for the engine, goes to a stud on the back of the head. Definitely follow Cruiser's tips to check over all your electrical system if the truck is new to you.

I guess it comes down to standards. When compared to my daily driver's, 99 BMW M3, 99 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight, that is a tiny amount of rust. If you are concerned if there is more rust lurking, the answer is most probably. From a structural standpoint, that appears to be nearly nothing. Just about any rust can be repaired with the right skills, but can get expensive it's on the shiny painted bits that you see.

I'm very impressed with this thread. Your parts portfolio is incredibly deep. This thread has made me realize just how many rare parts my 90 Eliminator has.

Mine will backfire every once in a while if I am running it hard and change gear after being up over 4-4.5k rpm.

Also check the wiring in the foot well, I had the wire for the lights pinched under a bolt holding the parking brake pedal assembly to the body.

I'm glad all is fixed. I was concerned.

If you have any rust repair, make sure you use a good rust converter after sanding off the rust, else it will just come back in a few months. Ask me how I know. Paint it a color that is close to your factory color, helps hide all the transitions to places you don't paint. The better your paint lays, the less time you will have to spend polishing afterwards.

I'll be interested to hear your results as my truck acts the same way.

Installed the REM II Clock panel this evening! I was initially a bit disappointed in the quality of the 3D printed housing has it had some voids on the front. It turns out the voids are hidden behind the dash so it doesn't matter! I quite like that you can adjust the display to a custom color, I've tried to match the color of my JVC head unit.

I'm a big fan of it both ways. The simplicity of it without is great, but also the 4x4 sticker is super rad.

Good thought. I've done the sensor ground mods but I wouldn't be too surprised to find such and issue still. It's a 32 year old 257k mile vehicle.

I too use the bar style flaring set, I like it because it is easy to use in awkward situations underneath the vehicle. They take some practice to make a good flare.

Is the fresh air seal the flap that is in the passenger foot well that is actuated by vacuum?

Are these just the sticker that goes on the cap or the whole cap? I'm missing a couple of the caps.

Any chance those would fit Eliminator 10 hole wheels?

I have a 90 Comanche with the 4.0L. I have two HVAC questions. 1. When I accelerate and engine vacuum dips, the ventilation switches from blowing out of the vents to defrost mode. As soon as I let back off the throttle it returns to the correct level. 2. On cold days when driving, very cold air rushes into the the passenger foot well. Both of my Comanches did this. Any thoughts on how to solve these problems?

I don't live in quite as cold of a place as where you are going, but it can get down into the -20F range on the coldest days. I haven't found a need for a block heater. My 99 Oldsmobile inexplicably has a factory block heater, does make for a nice quicker heat up in the morning. My first Comanche had a patch heater on the bottom of the oil pan really not sure why it had it as it was always a California truck. The patch looked like an extremely simple stick on install.

Flushed the heater core this evening. Hooked a garden hose up forward and backwards while filling an old washer fluid bottle. A decent amount of crud came out. Probably flushed back and forth 10 times. The heat now is much better, not perfect but better. I bet I can use to chemicals to clean it more in the future. Also received my clock panel REMII! Have it hooked up but not yet installed in the dashboard. I've definitely determined that my new Bosch O2 sensor is not very good.

I understand, next year every car I own will qualify for antique plates here in PA. Three of my cars are from 99, the 99 Oldsmobile being the most difficult to get parts for. The Comanche and the 99 BMW M3 are relatively easy to find parts for as they both have great enthusiast communities behind them.

I'm unaware with respect to car stereos but aluminum wire is fairly common in thick wire such as house connections to the grid. It's significantly less expensive than copper. Last time I went to the scrap yard I got $3.30 per lb for copper and $0.90 for Aluminum.

I occasionally wish I had the metric ton springs. Have a factory Dana 44 but standard springs. Put enough rocks in the bed the other day to be just 3/4" off the bump stops.

I've towed up around 6000 lbs total with mine, way over recommendation. 6x15 trailer, single axle no brakes. Just going slow and easy, made the journey no problem. Used the bumper mount ball on my Fey Westin bumper. That said, an ATV on a 6x10 trailer will be fine, you'll know it's back there but I would tow it on the highway all day.

Cool, no rush, but keep me in mind when you get them out. I've had great luck using the turtle wax carpet cleaner, it's basically a dry cleaning product.