pizzaman09

This is why I am scraping rust and painting a car of mine this week that spent its life in the north. On the plus side the interior is mint for a car that is known for interiors the disintegrate.

I usually find the stuck brake is easily identified by which side of the road the truck veers to when the brakes are hit hard. I did once had the parking brake hanging at the y splitter under the truck as the threaded adjuster was adjusted too far. And snubbing out on the back of the bracket.

I don't particularly recommend this method, but I just drove to a big hill, turned of the truck and pumped the brakes five or so times. I ended up finding that the brake boost went away and I had to lay into the pedal to get it to slow down. So I thus determined that the brake booster was working. I was concerned myself as my Comanche has the firmest and nicest feeling brake pedal of any vehicle I own with power brakes. It just takes a bit more force than your normal power assisted brake car.

Do you have opening vent windows? That's where I get my leaks.

Isn't that just the throttle cable?

That's a Ferrari 328gts. Late 80s.

This is pretty awesome. Does it actually handle better than stock with the nice low suspension and changed away bars?

One could also try welding a nut to the stub of the damaged bolt. The heat should help break free the threads and the nut gives you a great place to stick a wrench on.

Saw a Ferrari 360 at Home Depot the other day. Ferrari's are a very rare sight in this town.

I got my first Comanche because the person who owned it had spent two years trying to get it to pass CA emissions. I got it for a good deal and drove it to PA. As a result of his work I ended up with a shiny new set of Banks headers and a new cat. That said, everyone else here are suggesting the right things. If all the sensors and lines are up to snuff, then it should pass. Definitely check those intake/exhaust manifold bolts.

I haven't changed any of the wiring from the factory, just put the switch in the radiator where it probably was supposed to go.

My 90 Renix truck turns in the e fan with the AC. I recently put a new thermostatic switch in, in the radiator as opposed to the original lower radiator hose, and it seems to kick on the e fan north of 206F according to the REM.

Is it possible that the little black tank is under the top height of the raildiator? Could you simply be fighting gravity?

I was able to buy the correct NTK one on Rock Auto last year. It completely fixed my O2 sensor issues and the tuck now runs like a champ.

Upgraded the transfer case linkage to the Azzy design version. I ended up with the cheap Amazon version which did require me to shorten the turn buckle threads about 1/4" on each end. It shifts so much easier and smoother than it used to. It was astoundingly fiddly to install though. My combo is an AX15 with an NP231. I had to put the transfer case turnbuckle on the farthest out hole of the three on the transfer case shift bracket. The handle bracket needed to be installed in the tilted position forward.

I bought the Rock Auto ones. They worked perfectly.

I have a very experimental project car, it's a BMW inline 6 with a a homemade engine head. Over the project I've dealt with many exhaust leaks into the coolant. I tired a few stop leak products. The one product I tried , which was some ancient bottle of something made by Prestone worked great. I also tried k seal and wasn't pleased with the amount of what appeared to be copper flakes it had in it which just made a mess of the whole cooling system. At this point it sounds like you don't have much to loose, I'd try what ever product seems like the advertising works best on you and give it a shot. You'll have to flush your cooling system once the engine is replaced anyway.

I spent $125 a wheel to get my Eliminator wheels refinished. They are far less complex that the turbines. If you just want to sandblast them then it could be economical to refinish them but gosh $550 seems steep for a set in that bad of shape.

I've recently replace my clutch with a new replacement and stock fan as well as put in a new thermo switch for the factory e fan, it works perfectly. Good cooling, even while idling for a long time on a hot day.

I'd plug each into a 12 volt source and see which pushes more air.

I just did the internal slave to external slave conversion in my Comanche, the external is undoubtedly heavier, however it is not very heavy. Very heavy hydraulic clutches I've been around included an 06 Ford Mustang V6 and any Subaru WRX.

Your oil pressure is exactly like mine. When driving it sits at 75% but idle is at 25% and cold start it is pinned at 100%

I'd also consider the condition of your O2 sensor. My truck did similar things and it was swapping out my Bosch O2 sensor for an NKT that fixed it.

Pics. There are 2 studs with nuts centered under the trans cross member. There is a stud and nut on the driver's side frame and a threaded hole with bolt on the driver's side frame.

I had no idea that was a skid plate! I just assumed that was an extra and very odd support brace on mine. If you need I can take pictures of the one on my truck. In other news, apparently I have a transfer case skid plate. 🙂