pizzaman09

It's crazy how much heat goes through the shifter hole.

I'm guessing based on what you are saying that deleting the HCV will cause the heater core to always get flow and thus could hurt AC or just ventilation performance in the summer?

The pan really blocks all access to the RMS unless you get it completely out of the way. I have the good fortune to have a friend with a two post lift. We unbolted the sway bar and pried down in the suspension just enough last time to squeak the pan out. I also removed the starter last time. I've ordered another Fel Pro 1 piece gasket and plan to follow the tips of others to RTV it in place to prevent it from moving too much. I will probably pull the pan all the way out again, then again I put the gasket in last time after the pan was positioned back under the engine above the axle.

I didn't know this! Makes sense, it's a variant of the jack points on my 62 Austin Healey and 99 BMW, they both use a rod that goes into the rocker panel to jack it up from the side. Nice design that kind of locks into place and is fairly stable. I'm not much into old American cars so this is not a detail I've taken note of before.

I have to admit, I'm not sure what this does, can you elighten me?

Based on my many years of cruising bring a trailer, I'm convinced that 50% of XJs and MJs with this grill have them in upside down. It's almost like a coin toss. I approve that Jeep did an XJ this year!

I don't really want to have to get the pan past the axle so I'm leaning towards the single piece. I had a heck of a time trying to get the axle low enough to get the pan out last time.

Last year I changed my rear main seal and oil pan gasket to try to fix the oil leaks I have. I was under the truck today and see that the Fel Pro 1 piece gasket I used on the oil pan appears to be extruding out at the rear. Does anybody have an opinion on whether the single piece or multi piece gasket is easier to deal with in install as I'm going to have to do this again.

That is strange. What brand bearings did you go with? I just did SKF bearings on my D44 and have no end play.

I recently downloaded this 88 MJ electrical manual from a long dead thread on this site. mj1988electricalmanual_(1).pdf

I am very appreciative of this thread and the positing of the electrical diagram. I personally found my brake lights not to work because the wire connected to the brake light switch was fatigued off on the LT Blue/ black wire. Following the electrical diagram allowed me to zero in on the issue.

This is really funny, last time I purchased mulch and potting soil at Home Depot, I threw the potting soil in the trunk of my Austin Healey Sprite and the mulch in the passenger seat.

This is a Comanche of be very proud to own. Ultra clean outside and in, tastefully modified in all the right places. Well done and congratulations on the Comanche of the Month!

I agree that forced induction can be fun, but I'm a bigger fan of the power curves of a good naturally aspirated engine, many can have epic amounts of character. Plus the naturally aspirated engines just sound better.

My 1990 side marker lights blink. It's a late 1989 build if I remember correctly.

Sure is!

Some CVTs are fun to drive. I'm personally a fan of any CVT that doesn't have fake shift points. I like the rubber band feel. Probably the most fun rental car I've had in the USA was a Nissan Cube because the CVT just gave it a bunch of character when you drove it. I dislike CVTs that have fake shift shock, it ruins the experience and feels really wrong. I once had a rental Optima, of which made 11 simulated shifts from zero to highway speed going up a long on ramp.It just kept taking the car out of peak power for the sake of making it feel like a slush box.

I would skip glueing it and just put it back together unglued for your test so that there isn't anything different with respect to the seal. The I'd go spend $30 at the auto store for two new bulbs. I had one that has about an 1/8" diameter hole in it, must have been from a rock. That one was very weak and when I took it apart the glass fell off. Replaced it with a cheap Sylvania replacement and was much impressed with the greater light output. I really should do the relay mod or get some LEDs for it.

Those parts are still functional but there is a tremendous amount of compression set. The cracking is due to ozone attack over time. They are ready to be replaced, you probably won't notice any difference driving but theoretically your sway bar will react better.

The 2000 mile drive each way makes it quite the expedition for me.

Look over the exhaust manifold for cracks.

Looking good hauling a lot of weight.

I haven't done Johnson Valley but have done the others, totally worth it. I'd love to get the MJ out there someday.

Glad you got it sorted out!

Oh, I didn't realize they changed those bits. Kinda surprising to hear that an OEM would mess up a clutch, it's kind of an easy thing to spec based on torque you need to transmit.