Incommando

I personally would avoid the Aussie for the 29-spline 8.25. I know numerous KJ owners who have blown them apart. In my case, my unit is back at Aussie for them to inspect. It was installed by a ASE master tech who has installed about a dozen drop-ins. It was well within specs when installed and it self-destructed. I am probably screwed as I bought it new, but second hand, from a guy who had his blow up. This was their brand new warranty replacement and he did not want to re-install it due to the first failure. I believed it was an anomaly at the time and took a chance on it. Big mistake. i believe in the Aussie product, but after my debacle i recalled aussie's long delay in putting this model out due to self-admitted issues with it after they announced receiving the initial shipment. suddenly it was all good and they began selling them. I now think it was more of a case of " we have 100's of these and can't afford to eat them." i would still use one in any fitment but the 8.25.

Chaining the motor to prevent torque-induced motor rotation is an old, old solution that still works. It is especially popular in drag racing for vehicles thet do not have a solid mount available. Another choice is a turnbuckle with one eye bolted to the engine and one to the frame. I used a turnbuckle to keep from ripping the mounts apart in my 550 hp/600 ft/# 440-powered Road Runner.

I like the concept of the aggressive a/t like the duratrac, but I cannot endorse buying Goodyears. Every set of the FIVE SETS of new Goodyears that I have owned in the last 12 years or so, including the spectacularly crappy 1st gen MT/R, have been major disappointments in tread life and quality. Just one man's opinion....your mileage may vary.

These claims come in cycles and have for years. The consensus seems to be that if your vehicle is neglected, you will see an initial jump from acetone due to its cleaning properties. Fuel injectors, etc... function better after initial use. BUT.. the actual mileage claims are generally inflated and do not seem to exist for new or well maintained vehicles. You never see these claims for a brand new vehicle. The cheerleaders tout its wonders, but then slowly stop their miraculous claims. On most vehicle related boards you can find such claims by posters, but they never seem to follow-up with long term results and then drop the subject in the cases I have seen. There is also an argument about the effect of increased solvent levels on fuel system parts with long-term use. I add 2 oz's of molasses to my fuel system at each fill-up and I am now getting 48.5 mpg in a 360-powered dually Dodge truck. There, it is written on the internets so it must be true. :D

The first thing often called a jeep was the WWII GP 1/4 ton truck. It was never officially a "jeep." Arguably then the first jeep was the 1945 Jeep CJ2. Only a few hundred were made and the 1946 CJ2A is what most people believe to be the first. Originslly, the Willys-Overland Co. produced jeeps. 9Willys is pronounced Willis as in "what you talkin' 'bout, and not Willees as you generally hear it.) The jeep line included the CJ, a wagon, a pick-up, a 2dr spoirts car, the VJ, and eventually a forward control pick-up, delivery van, even versions fitted with back-hoes. Kaiser took over the jeep line and in 1963 intorduced what is widely considered the first SUV: the Wagoneer. In a shock to most jeepers, it was available with a Dana 27 IFS front axle as an option. A truck, the Gladiator series, was built off of th esame basic architicture and remained amazingly similar until it was disco'd in '87. Same with the Waggy but it remained until '91. Kaiser modernized the engines with a decent inline six and a 327 V8, but not a Chevy! They bought the rights and tooling from GM for the 225 cid buick based V6 and this became the optional cj engine until 1972. This engine was not really a buick at the time as it was not produced by GM, the rights and all were owned by Kaiser. GM eventually bought th erights back and this engine forms the basis for th ecurrent 3800. Kaiser did replace the 327 with a Buick 350 purchased from GM in the FSJ line. The 1971 purchase of jeep by AMC led to the AMC I6 (232/258) that are basically the 4.0 used later. The AMC 304/360/401 made their way into the jeeps, with only the 304 used in the CJ. Things did not chnage much until CHrysler bought the company in the late 80's. Chrysler eventually sold to Daimler Benz who changed their name to Daimler Chrysler. Technically, jeeps were german vehicles in this era. Cerebus finacial, with ties to GM through ownership of GMAC, bought the carcass after DC almost killed it. Currently a consortioum managed by Fiat owns the company. Throughout its reign, jeep was notorius for using parts from wherever it could. Alts, trannies, ignition systems..it could be confusing. The axles have almost always been based on Dana Corp stuff, though. The Model 20/23 was in-house, as is the 8.25. Jeep is first cousin to the Humvee. It was created by AMC's government contract wing, AM General. The diffs used were evn based on the AMC model 20. Chrysler did not buy AM general with AMC and then tried to sue AM General for the hummer's jeep-inspired 7-slot grill. t became an issue when GM bought licensing rights to the Hummer name for the GMT900 Tahoe-based H2 and GMT-355 Colorado-based H3.They lost as, at the time it was designed, AM General had the rights to it through their parent, AMC.

one thing that will help: TORT REFORM A friend is a high-risk obstetrician specializing in multiple births. In 2006, his malpractice insurance premium increased almost $100k/year. Not the total premium, just the increase. He declined to say what the total was. He has never been succesfully sued despite being a prime target for the ambulance-chasing idjits this country has on every corner.

I'll elaborate: The '91 has almost no bed left and is not fixable. MJ's/XJ's of this era did not fair well with Ohio's liberal use of road salt unless they were well cared for: this one was not. It was wrecked where the cab and bed meet. It needs a pass. door, rocker & floor repair, and most of the rear cab corner on that side as it is pushed in maybe 6". It was then left outside for a year or so and water entered the ruptured area. The rear tailights were sold off already, as was much of the interior. This is not what anyone would consider a "saveable" truck as the investment to fix it would FAR exceed the finished value. It is, in a word, rough. Its biggest value is the running 4.0 and the title/VIN. I can buy it for what it would be sold as scrap, basically.

FIRST: I no longer have my MJ. Could someone please measure an MJ cab for me? I need from door-to-door on the inside, from firewall to rear wall on the inside, and the floor to the ceiling. I would greatly appreciate this help. The story: I have been going through a drawn out divorce since 4/10. It comes after 7 wonderful years of marriage. Unfourtunatley we were married for 22.... :D At least I received and maintain custody of my two daughters. So, I needed more instant cash than I could lay my hands on and needed it by a deadline. I put the MJ up and it sold within in hour at my obviously too low asking price. My cash flow situation is OK, I just needed instant cash. My choice: I have a new mild steel DOM 112" W/B tube chassis. Yes, it is a drag chassis designed for a full-body vehicle & that was built & certified to go to 8.50 in the quarter. But then the build lagged and it sat around for a decade or more until the cert. expired. It needs updates to fit the new NHRA regs. So, I picked it up for nothing. i believe that this can easily be adapted to an off-road vehicle. However, it is just a chassis: no suspension or anything. I have a chance to pick up a '91 2wd MJ 4.0 auto. I have a complete big-joint HP30 from a '97 and a matching complete 29-spline 8.25. As AW4/231 combo's are fairly common and cheap, converting this MJ to 4wd would not be a huge undertaking. I am thinking truggy. So, would you start from scratch with a buggy build, keeping in mind that it would probably require tow vehicle/trailer, or truggy the '91 and upgrade it as time allowed? As I have literally nothing in the chassis I could use the tubing on the truggy. The third option is to cut the cab apart on the MJ and mount it to the chassis, making an easily licensed streetable vehicle. Please feel free to comment and/or flame away

Due to my beloved Vikes graciously allowing two of their lesser divisional rivals a chance to make the play-offs (probably to stop the incessant " we'll be better next year" crying), the Packers have a clear road to the Super Bowl. Cutler is ordering a case of Pittsburg Terrible Towels now in anticipation of all the crying he will do after Sunday. 8)

Not worth it IMHO. You can get a matched set big-joint front and 29-spline 8.25 rear for less than half of what shipping that axle set would cost; at least anywhere I have seen you can. The D44 is nominally stronger than an 8.25, but not by any huge amount. Spring perches/welding shouldn't be more than a $100 to pay someone to do it on a worse case scenario. $50-$60 is more realistic. The price folks want for a factory D44 is way high to me. If you absolutely have to have a D44 set, I will accept offers on a factory 3.54 D44 rear with a perfectly functioning LSD and video to prove it... :D

Need D44 4.27's? :brows:

THIS! My bumper looked great from the outside. I used the ball to pull out a 3' shrub, and it pulled the bumper apart. It was rusted from the inside.

I heat my 2600 sq ft home on nat. gas and it runs $87/month, but that includes the water heater... $342 a month would make me cry.

A web search turned up a ton of links in a few seconds. Here is a good one: http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/clutch/inertiaring/ The old 225 odd-fire V6 was impessive in part due to its unusually heavy flywheel. It made the tq more usable and the engine harder to stall due to the greater inertia. This may be a solid upgrade. A 4.0 throttle body swap is also said to be good for a few real world HP. The ultimate on a streetable jeep may be the supercharger if it is still available. As always, the best boost in performance is probably optimizing gear ratios for a balanced package in relation to rpm band/tranny/x-fer/gear ratio/tire size. Playing with those numbers through one of the many online calculators can give you the info to build the best combo. Here is a good one: http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html

You can get them to make several hundred horsepower; all it take's is cubic dollars. that engine is pouplar in some NHRA classes.

I think you are missing the obvious.... The word is out that I am on this forum and 20+ people are joining each day just to be near me. :peek:

I think he means 242

10.5's do indeed work fine on a 7" rim. Here is a set of 265/70/16's (they spec like many 31x10.5x15's) at stock height on factory 16x7 rims that have the same BS as the 15x7's. They cleared the lower control arm at full lock but I am not 100% sure there would be no contact if you had a more aggressive tread design:

Most buggies should be light. Gearing is more important, IMHO, then actual engine output. I think 190hp/230# is pretty good if you keep the vehicle weight around 3,000#'s. Besides, at about 500#'s dressed, that is not terribly heavy, is it? Sure it is about 75#'s more than a 4.3 chevy...but still...?

I have inherited a mild-steel tube chassis. it is set up for a SBC with a set-back from the front axle line. I guess I was actually hoping for tips from anyone who had used a 4.0 in a tube chassis. The height of the engine in particular is a concern. I would like to mount the whole drivetrain as high into the chassis as possible and make the bottom flat or near flat. Maybe i am worrying for nothing. I can get to the chassis to start taking measurements mid-week.

Anybody have any experience/info about using a 4.0 I6 in a tube buggy? Are any of the physical dimensions a deal-breaker? Opinions welcome

The recurring theme seems to be that if you looking to do this to save money, it will take years to recover your initial investment. A 6.2L GM may be the easiest????

A 29-spline 8.25 is much easier to find, cheap (my last one was $40), and are nearly as strong as a real D44 and better than the D44A from the GC.

your option are to switch everything over from the old motor to make your current electronics work, or to swap all of the later electronics into your jeep with the new motor.

the trac-loc carrier is said to be stronger. welding them up after the clutches go is not uncommon.