Incommando

Here are some crappy cell phone pics of the interiror light. One shows the cheapo auto parts store light from the position of the driver Image Not Found the other shows the lil' tiny switch that I mounted toward the windshield ( just my preference): Image Not Found Here is a pic of the GOOD side of the bed before I cut the rust out. The second shows the to-be-installed TJ flare just stuck to the rust on the bed.

Spent an hour or two removing the factory flares today. They are pretty decent except the one across the front (splash guard?) is torn on one side right where it rivets to the fender portion. Looks like it hit a parking block or rock or something. Rust is way up past where the inner and outer panels are joined on the bed. :fs1: . It will all be covered with the 4 rear TJ flares that are going on but I am not sure if I am going to try to rejoin the two panels some way or not. The headliner was gone from this truck, cardboard and all. Neither dome light worked and the actuators in the door frames are gone. So, I found an open spot in the circuit block and ran a wire up along the a-pillar and over above the mirror. I installed a large interior light that has its own on/off switch directly over the mirror- got the idea from lights that are mounted there in police cruisers. Sure, it won't work without the key being on or on acc, but it works. About $7 into that project. Pics to come- MJ is at one house and my camera was back at the house I am staying in. Anyone want some body-colored MJ flares near Dayton? Not going to try to ship them.

That answers that very well. Thanks for the reply. It is modify the brackets or sell the stuff...

Mud drags, most likely. Drag racing in a mud pit using a christmas tree and all.

As long as the final drive ratio ( tire height x gear ratio) matches you can run different height of tires. If the axles ratios are the same front to rear, the tire sizes had better match. But if you do the math so that "X" tire height with "X" axle ratio equals "Y" tire height with "Y" axle ratio you are good to go. :wrench:

Door mounted "trucker mirrors" were part of the tow package in '88, at least.

Nice pics, and thank you. That is some good work. Due to the lack of welding skills/equipment I guess I was hoping that I could make the Delco alt. work with the H.O. electrical system and use the unmodified brackets. Apparently this is not possible?

Can you run a delco alt with the H.O.?

Someone on pirate posted that Neon (no specifics) injectors gave the same performance boost for about $10 an injector?????

I had gathered all of the parts, including the belt, to move the alternator to the a/c compressor position on my '88 Renix non-a/c 4.0 but then had to sell the truck due to deeeeeevorce. ( I had 7 wonderful years of marriage..unfortunately we were married for 27... :brows: ) I now have a '91 H.O. 4.0, also without air, but I don't think I can use the renix stuff on it? If not, what doesn't work? Can I use an '88 alt. to make it a go? Are there other parts out there for the H.O.? If it is umpossible, I have all of the stuff to to move the alternator to the a/c compressor position on a Renix 4.0 to sell.... :(

I have never seen a doof sell something with a swapped-in small block chevy that wasn't a "corvette motor" ( like that meant much for decades at a time.) Doubt this one is anyway as the '85 (only about 225 hp not 300, IIRC) already had TPI and GM's system wasn't bad, so why the aftermarket set-up? Although the pics aren't great the wheels/tires don't look like a " $28,000" appraisal either. But heck, for a buck... :D

The GM LT1's would return 25-26 mpg HWY even in boats like a Roadmaster so those numbers aren't out of line, I don't think. Adequate HP so the engine doesn't work itself to death in normal situations may aid in better MPG numbers?

You and your family are in my thoughts. I am sorry for your loss.

7" to 8" of lift to run a 31"-32" inch tall tire is way overkill, IMHO. I'd pick either 4.5" springs or do a SOA with stockers. Don't forget to buy adapters to put your JK rims on the MJ.

More than one 4.0 has been diagnosed as "blown up" and replaced due to the flex plate bolts walking out and hitting on each revolution. Yes, 4.0's have some piston slap and valve train noise. Many a 5.0 Ford has the same piston slap noise. IMHO it is no big deal if that is what it is... Get a good mechanical oil pressure gauge and run a compression test if you want to ease your mind a bit.

Loading it with mulch.

Pass on it. The passenger car 9" from that era had thinnish axle tubes, 28-spline axles (with the exception of rare special edition high-output models), and small (weak) axle bearings and is noticably weaker than later units. The very low pinion position of the 9" means it is not the ideal swap 4x4 candidate in the first place in the opinion of many. A late model 29-spline 8.25 is probably an all-around better axle for your needs than this particualr 9", IMHO. Most axles of that time period are weaker than the later versions, including Dana 44's, 60's, and 70's. A mid-60's D44 rear, for example, used 19-spline two-piece axles and a weaker 10-spline pinion shaft and is nearly on par with the turdy-five. :(

With the price of D30's, at least around here, snag the whole front axle and just swap to get matching 3.55's. Yes, you will need to relocate the spring perches as they differ from the XJ's.

You can run a 32x11.5 on a 7" rim...been done a lot. It is outside of spec, but so are the thousands and thousands of 12.5's on 8" rims out there. A 32" tire actually only decreases your ground clearance by 1/2" as at any given time 1/2 of the height difference is above the axle centerline. A lot depends on what you want to do with your MJ. Although you can run a 31x10.5 on an unlifted MJ, and I have done it on two different MJ's, IMHO you cannot use a 31x105. on an unlifted MJ. Others' experiences may very but for me I experienced considerable rub trying to do anything but street driving. Although it limits your choices somewhat, there are 33x10.5's out there if changing your rims is a deal breaker. Nice thing about the narrower tire is the should be a little more forgiving on your axles. If you are going almost strictly off-road, some Swampers are available in a 34x10.5 size. From playing with XJ's, I think that 15x8 with a 4" B.S. and 33x12.5's is a nice combo with 6" of lift.

Love the site, everyone has been great to me here. Here goes :hijack: : Failing to see past previous conflicts with well-defined enemies and equally well-defined borders is, IMHO, begging for disaster in the reality of 21st conflict. If your enemy is not "officially" of any government and does not confine itself to rules of war and the previously stated well-defined borders, how can you confront them by pretending it is WW2 all over again? Those wishing to re-write history can pretend that the nationality of any of the 9/11 hosebags made a difference. If they are honest with themselves they will admit that the enemy in this case exceeds borders and nationalites. Trying to fight them with those out-dated and self-imposed constraints is a major failure. But it makes good soundbite for people needing something to repeat....

Cool!

My feelings eggzachary. The price to save this MJ would far exceed its value, IMHO. I am not at all good at body work and to pay someone to fix this truck....well, it ain't happening. Find an MJ cab, cut the whole corner off, graft onto exisitng cab, smooth in, replace rockers, try to patch or replace bed, paint..It is monumental. When you add in how far I would probably have to ship such a cab corner/bed to get parts worth using due to the road salt in Ohio... The pictures can't show how "soft" all of that metal is from just sitting exposed for years, either. I am removing the factory flares and saving them/selling them. I have 4 rear TJ flares to graft on after I hack the rust above the rear wheelwells. This will also give me additional clearance while keeping the lift fairly low.

So I will need to use my '91 CPS?...good to know. Unfortunately this '93 tranny has a CPS on it that is only a couple of weeks old... :fs1:

Thanks for the help. I am about 25 miles from the jeep or I woulda crawled under it to check. I had one source saying the switch was in '92 ( which did not really make sense with the HO/OBD-I switch in '91) and sources stating it was in '91. :doh:

Continue to gather parts. I picked up a '93 4wd Aw4 today. It came with a front driveshaft and the shifter for the 231J. Unfortunately the t-case was not available so i am still in search of that. A plus is that there appears to be a new or nearly new CPS attached to the tranny :cheers: The truck continues to be very driveable. It will cruise at 75 just fine and seems dependable. I have put maybe 500 miles on it and I am happy with the truck so far. I sprayed flat black paint over the massive body damage and it makes it a little less noticable. Well, it is less noticable as long as your eyesight isn't real good and I am passing you at about 55 mph, anyway... :D