Incommando

He says "set" and shows 2..going out on a limb here... Those are rear-specific drag racing rims. They are light and strong enough for what they were designed for, but such rims generally do not fare well on the road with pot holes, etc... Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but beyond that I do not think that these are very appropriate for DD'ing on an SUV even if you never take them off-road. They would also require, IMHO, a minimum 12.5" wide tire. If it was me I would find some factory aluminum rims for your DD tires: they look good and can be had for cheap.

First gen MT/R's were horrible. They wore quickly and with funny wear patterns even though I rotated them every 6K. Horrible wet pavement traction. I hated them, and the Rubi forums are full of similar complaints. The Treadwright copy will give you a ton more life than the original. I have never read a bad thing about treadwright. I have had three sets of new goodyears in the last few years: MT/R's, SR/A's, and whatever the heck was on the Buick (didn't last 30,000 miles) . All were extremely crappy tires.

I installed my firestick on the bed behind the driver today. That rubber plug made the install cake: no drilling the cab! I drilled another hole in the plug for the cables, split it to get the cable in, and popped it back on: it fits like it was a factory deal. Makes it easy to run the cable under the carpet from where it enters the cab. Excellent tip.

Do you have details on how you tucked your up/modded it?

Found a complete 3.55 front end from a '96 to get 297 joints. do the hoses interchange?

The step bumper tow deal is seriously weak. i indeed taco'd mine pulling out some shrubbery with a strap around the ball. It should not have happened and I finsihed the job with my Kj with no issues.

interesting.

Nice tip on the plug

no. you are welcome.

If only there was a parts wanted section... :D Anyhoo... A '77 J20 has a D44 front with 8 lugs. A J10/Wagoneer/Cherokee has a D44 with 6 lugs. The FSJ's I have had apart had no factory adapters. The hub goes on the spindle the rotor goes on the hub. The rim gets bolted on. No adapter. This is pretty much the way for most front axles. If someone is feeding you info on what how to convert your FSJ 6-lug to 8-lugs, the parts from many more years and donor vehicles would fit. Are you looking for an after market adapter to change lug pattern?

Did you ever get that pic?

Rough Country is a lousy company. They shorted me on parts that were supposed to be included in the kit TWICE and refuse to make it right. I am hardly alone on this issue and you can find several posts (on most every jeep website) about them. Even their biggest fanboi's admit it takes several phone calls to get what is promised. In addition, the ride of their kits sucks. I'll be dumping mine as soon as $$ premit. I listened to a fanboi and did not due enough of my own research and I really regret it. For a $50 lift to easily clear 31's, go to O'Reilly or where ever. Get the front coil spacers for about $7/ea and a rear drop shackle for a Chevy for about $30 and you are good to go. Both are in their little suspension area.

I am not 100% sure it applies to the pre-4.0 years, but both http://www.advanceadapters.com sell kits/pieces to mount a SBC and should mount a 4.3, as well.

2" wide cj would be my guess from the pics. Funny...all of that to put a LP D44 under a truck when an upgrade to 297 shafts in the HP30 would be as good, IMHO. And IIRC 3.31 was the best gears you could get in an '80-up waggy. Most were 2.71. No lock-outs meant it was the AWD transfer case.

I took that as a given: Among other things, the front shocks have nothing to connect to.... removal of the leaf springs and perches and adding one of the aftrmarket bracket kits to return it to an MK/XJ suspension would be the hot ticket IMHO.

The vehicle was totalled. Water damage is a very bad thing and it sat in the river for some time before it was able to be removed.

I will respectfully disagree. The O.P. was certainly deliberatly controversial when he posted the anti-jeep / pro jap/ford thread on a jeep board. There was no cause for anything to be mentioned other than he was leaving. Even then just leaving w/o comment would have been the easiest path. From the title to the wording, the whole original post was designed to be inflammatory and disruptive. It was very unnecessary, especially as worded. That many bit his bait already and legitimized his post by attacking other jeepers' opinions based on his rant is surprising to me. I am not "young" as I am a retired civil servant living on a pension myself. But a man has got to know his limitaitons, and blaming the vehicle for his limitations is uncalled for unless he was trying (and succeeding) to be a troll, IMHO.

They both look like D44's. These easiest thing to do would be to change the front axle ( '80-newer waggy, I presume?) to 5x5.5 using Ford hubs/rotors, an easy enough junk yard find IIRC. You can then adapt both axles to 4.5 If you wanted to, but that would add expense and width. The rear with that pattern were most common in 1/2 ton dodges, CJ's, Scouts,and earlier (pre-74???) FSJ's, all of which would have different widths. I am not sure what your various widths are, but to change the rear to 4.5 without adapters would probably require custom shafts as the correct shafts for your housing may never have been made with the 4.5 pattern.

Isn't it hilarious how divisive a post by a washed-up old troll who made a sour-grapes parting shot about jeep has been? I'll bet that doof hasn't even logged back on to check, but so many took the bait and are in-fighting because his butt got in over his head... kinda sad, yes?

His insurance covered it. He has another KJ now and 'wheels the snot out of it.

I honestly doubt Jim would have survived that in an XJ. The roof staying up gave the boys enough time to get him out before he drowned. Much more roof collapse and he would have been in a bad way. Scary stuff. If folks go to the thread you will see pics off it back at the tow yard. It held up remarkably well.

I'm still a fan of rear tj flares at all 4 corners of the mj.

If you can drive a stick, an '05-'07 6spd KJ and gives you a 48:1 crawl ratio even with 3.55 gears. That is equal to an automatic TJ Rubicon. The 3.7 auto has a 26:1 crawl ratio with 3.73's. So the 6spd gets you vastly imporved off-road control and capabilty and improved on-road mileage. That is a win-win in my book. The added bonus is that only the 6spd got the stronger 241 series transfer case. It is not the 4.0 low range 241OR of the TJ Rubicon, but the 2.72 low range version that Chevy even used in 1-ton trucks for some years. IMHO opinion it is the strongest tansfer case Jeep offered in the unibody rigs. It is not d300 or D20, but it is a solid upgrade over the 231.

the KJ and XJ are roughly the same size. The 25% weight gain of the KJ is almost entirely in platform strengthening points. If you have seen a rolled stock XJ and a rolled stock KJ you'd appreciate that a-pillar.

Fits cherokee and comanche, but the spring perches are on top... :nuts: