Incommando

Probably a good guess judging by how low the jet is mounted. Marauder...Ford had a chance to do something neat and instead did something very underwhelming.

My '88 SporTruck had a factory LSD D44

Bah...Indiana. One state to far to the left. :banana:

Dakota roll bars are a popular swap but I don't know what if any mods they require. Moving the parking brake is simple. You will need Cherokee handbrake and then custom make your cables from the mechanism to the equalizer bar. The stock Chero ones are not long enough and the MJ's too long. They can be shortened, though. On that visor thingy: If something as close to an MJ as an XJ supposedly will not work why would something completely different like an S10 work with fewer mods if at all? The MJ's roofline is different from an XJ toward the rear but is probably not much different if at all at the windshield, a part that is interchangeable between the two. It would be the correct width and everything. Even if it did not fit it would be the logical point to start with if you needed to make one work. Not that I can condone the installation of such a thing on an MJ.... :rotf:

Go here: www.grimmjeeper.com Enter the set-up you have and the set-up you want. You can play with different combos. Check the RPM's for how you realistically intend to use your truck to see if the current combo would be acceptable or what would.

I would guess that those are CHerokee fenders? PFC I can't see a truck in the pic you posted... :rotf:

Although maybe not optimal my '91 with a 4.0/aw4/231 combo on 32" tires runs just fine with the 3.55's. It is very livable on and off road. if you compare the RPM changes in each gear from a stock tire size & drivetrain combo to mine your average cruising RPM only changes 150 rpm for cruising speeds you see in daily driving. Yes. 150 RPMS. Stock RPM at 35 MPH = 1080 & 70 MPH = 2159. With the 32's then 35 mph = 978 & 70 MPH = 1957. To save you the math that is 98 & 188 RPMs respectively. The powerband of the 4.0 is just not sensitive or "peaky" enough to make those changes an issue. Anyone who claims that there is a major difference needs to quit listening to internet rumors and conventional wisdom ( you know---those tall tales that start out "well everybody says...") and actually research the stuff. You would probably effect your performance/MPG more by having a full tank of gas and a 250# friend in the passenger seat then by the tire size swap I referenced. BTW: the crawl ratio changes right at 1 point.... 26.94 to 25.88. As it is a trail toy and the on-road characteristics are less important to me I plan a swap to 4.56's in. But that is to optimize the jeep not for a specific purpose not because it is an issue as it sits now.

Thanks for sending him the pic. I don't have one.

Good to hear

I liked the idea of eliminating the air box to free up the space. Although I could have made something I bought the Spectre CAI kit ( they have kits for HO and Renix). I had a credit and a $25 GC from Advance Auto so I bought it through there. It gives me a sealed inline air filter. I will paint it to get rid of all of that chrome. Once it is in the cowl I will cut a hole and use a 90* bend to run it out. I am going to use a hat on the tube like a Humvee. Even without the hat having the intake in the cowl is pretty darn safe from the vids I have seen. I got the kit in the mail today. I may get started on it this weekend. RENIX http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/9945/10002/-1?parentProductId= HO http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/9948/10002/-1?parentProductId= Here is one of many threads on the subject. Post #6 is kind of what I am thinking for the finished product: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/cherokee-xj-cowl-hummer-snorkel-build-how-1008105/ I have way too many friends with snorkels to have one and look like a group of goth kids all dressed alike or something... :banana:

I just went through this. The 2wd d.s. is two pieces and use a rubber sleeve between them. This makes them difficult to shorten and rebalance especially if the rubber has deteriorated. I bought a junkyard shaft with 1310 yokes for cheap and had that shortened and rebalanced.

"Collectible" jeeps can be iffy in price. Very few special models command a premium price and even then the buyers willing to pay a premium for those models is a pretty small group. Take a Hurst Commando, for example. To most jeepers it is just a Commando with goofy stripes and a hood tach. On the practical side the 5.9 was not really much of an improvement over the 5.2 as it is only a 15 horsepower bump over the more common engine. A quick search of the net shows that on average $3-$4 K won't buy you a halfway decent 1998 TJ. If that it is indication of the relative value of the ZJ then in the grand scheme of things I don't think buying one for the potential future value is the best reason to do so. In all honesty I don't think you would be destroying any collectible future value as it just doesn't seem like it will have any. It is just not a model that's current value indicates it being a future goldmine. Of course any mint original vehicle of even basic specs has collector value to the right (read rare) buyer 30-40 years down the road....but at a 140,000 miles and daily driver condition I think the "tucked away in a garage unbelievably low miles mint condition" ship has sailed on that one. Enjoy your jeep as a jeep. I don't think that you will be hurting your retirement fund any by doing so.

pic?

Oh, to throw this out: if you do decide to go SOA they can ride and handle great. Much better than the SUA lifts I have been around. SOA does not effect daily driver capable one bit if you are careful with your parts choices. People who think otherwise are either repeating internet rumors, saying what they "just know" has to be true without really knowing anything about it, or they have been subjected to cobbled up messes. Whether to lift and/or go with larger tires is generally a want thing versus a need thing anyway. That the OP even asked the question makes me think there is some "want" factor there.

If you want a factory-like replacement step bumper you could go with a FEY ( Westin) from SummitRacing.com or the like

#1 Stock height & oversized 235/75/15's Stock height 31's (VERY mild tread tread) 4.5" SUA lift and 32x11.5's #2 Stock height & 205/75/15 tires: Stock height and 31's (same worn street tires) 5.5" SOA & trimmed fenders

IMHO an SOA is way too much lift for 31's. I am at 5.5" with a 32.4" tire ( about what some 33's actually measure) and they look undersized. If YOU want the look of a lifted truck, do it. That is all that matters. A small 2" budget boost type lift is detailed in many places and in a couple of forms around here. It is under $100... probably less work and about the same money as getting junk yard WJ parts and installing them. Personally many feel that the trucks look better with a touch of lift. If you agree then the WJ arms get you nothing in that department. Avoid a lift that uses a short add-a-leaf as they are commonly cited for a harsh ride. If your front springs are worn or you run a tire with any type of aggressive shoulder lug they will rub and the rear may possibly rub on the inner fender as well. Turn in your stops and increase your turning radius? Not the best solution IMHO. So why spend money and labor swapping control arms & the like when your budget lift gets you the look you seem to be interested in anyway? And without having to increase your turning radius? Although it may "sound right" that lifting the truck changes the aerodynamics & hurts MPG" is most likely one of those "well everyone knows..." things without a lot to back it up. Sure, it seems like it would be right but is it? The evidence is anecdotal at best. These things are as aerodynamic as a brick. Any MPG change after a lift/tire upgrade would be far more attributable to the change in height, weight, and width of the new tires (and maybe rims) not the lift raising the truck. You change the final drive ratio, increase rolling resistance - especially with an aggressive tread- & push more rubber with every RPM, and increase un-sprung weight. As a general rule adding 1# of un-sprung weight is equal to adding 10#'s of sprung weight. These items will all provide a noticeable change in MPG & performance. A minuscule coefficient of drag increase on a brick? Think about it. It gets overlooked that whether you lift it or not you are adding the exact same larger tires & that will still cause the same changes anyway. That and you generally have to drive it a touch harder to make up for those changes. So...if you want it lifted do it. My personal advice would be to just be careful about going too high.

Yeah....there are so many either places to look for improving brake performance on an MJ than the front rotors. I wonder what percentages of our trucks have read brakes that function properly? I know mine did not before the rebuild.

I am spoiled. I am 55 miles from Jegs and about 125 miles from Summit. Even standard shipping sometimes gets to me next day. I just didn't think of ordering through a dealer as being faster because for me it usually isn't.

They make a needle adapter that slides under the cap to grease sealed ones also

Here it is on an RTI ramp next to an '06 TJU/LJ Unlimited with a $1,400 teraflex left and 35's. The camera angle is deceptive: 0ur front tires are stopped dead even. No front shaft issue. and here it is from the rear I have since been told that I misunderstood theri intentions and they stopped the truck before max flex as they wanted it for a photo-op for the club's FB page. I was the only modified non-Wrangler there at the time. I thought they stopped me due to the rear tire lifting and that is not the case. I could have gone further after the pic but believing I had maxed out I just backed down. I am actually not a huge RTI fan as it doesn't always translate into real world ability. The truck works well off-road.

My drive shaft is sorta custom made due to the 4wd conversion. It is actually a used shaft picked from a pile of them at a junkyard because it had the correct u-joint yokes. I then had it cut down & rebalanced. The factory 2wd shaft is a two-piece thing with a rubber sleeve in it that it apparently difficult to modify. I used a chart from here on ComancheClub and had the rear shaft cut to the specifications of a SWB with an 4.0/AW4/231, and D44 - 41.25" That is the combo closest to my 4.0/AW4/231/8.25 combo. Cut & rebalance was $85. I have no drive shaft issues. I have wheeled it twice now and it does not bind at all. Highway travel is also without drama. Due to well-worn 2wd rear leafs I am at less than 5.5" of lift in the rear. That does not seem to be enough lift to warrant an SYE or such with our longer wheel-bases. I am not all that much higher than the dime a dozen 4.5" lifts out there. The front shaft still has plenty of spline engagement at full droop. http://comancheclub.com/topic/18925-looking-for-driveshaft-lengths-of-stock-trucks/

CRM1988 thanks for those posts. As you can plainly see an MJ cannot possibly pull a fifth wheel or any trailer larger than a red flyer wagon as they are way too heavy and the MJ would be destroyed in short order. Death and havoc would ensue from the failure of every major component and fatal carnage would be the obvious end result. :rotf: Every towing thread has so many who sell the MJ short even though the trailering specs are in every owner's manual to see. Seriously that is a very cool set-up. I am way jealous

Those are the perches that I linked from Jegs. Just from being a Mopar nut who runs around with other Mopar nuts I know that finding a dealer with in-stock Mopar Performance parts for vehicles like our trucks or hot rods that are decades old is getting harder. Heck even Amazon has these for about $15. part # P4120074

It is a bummer but they are not serviceable. I am not to worried as I have a buddy who lifted his ZJ almost 30,000 miles ago and that end is still fine.