Incommando

It seems to be decently made. Holding it up to the fender shows a good fit and holding it up to a friend's ARB shows it to be an exact match with the logo removed. It did not contain any sealant but even if you do not have any RTV or the like laying around it is cheap at the parts store

Mine are adjustable for 4.5-8.0" of lift but I do not know collapsed/extended dimensions http://www.rockkrawler.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RK00485XJ

55" Sony smart TV.

Many competent automotive speed machine shops. It is a relatively simple process and I have seen it done in ahome garage. I don't know where you are in Ohio but Moser Engineering in Indiana does a good job. Some axle shafts can be shortened and re-splined if necessary to avoid the price of custom shafts.

I don't consider normal wear items and routine maintanence as "money into it." That would include tires unless they were a voluntary upgrade. That being said here is my breakdown: $400 purchase price on 2010. $560 M/T's. Call it $800 in the lift. $440 in the 4wd conversion including the 8.25 swap. $260 for the Aussie. So including little things it would be about $2,600.

Nice.

Novak disagrees but even the experts get it wrong sometimes. "Flywheels and flexplates do not interchange between the I6 and the 304, 360 & 401 engines due to balance issues" http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/amc_i6.htm But I do know a guy that swore his 304 flywheel on his swapped-in 360 was just fine until the bearings were shot at 10K.

Now you're talking.

Happy Festivus!

You would have to assure that the balancing was correct. Even the 304 & 360 take different flywheel weights, for example. There is more to consider than corresponding bolt patterns.

I have never had an issue going in person. I have seen guys refused trying to reserve online. You have to input all the info on both vehicles and the program kicks you out if it doesn't like what you told it.

Made it under $2 over the weekend. Saw $1.94

I have seen Frams split. Excuse my ignorance on the subject but I thought that we wanted filter that did not allow drain back on our upside down filter as otherwise the filter would be dry and have to fill up/saturate before flowing oil on every start up?

Does the same apply to its sisters the Dart & 200?

Yep. The 904 is an old Mopar 3 speed automatic

The air inlet on the XJ/MJ is poorly located. You are far from the first to hydrolock one.

I used the xj block, deleted the rear valve, and have excellent brakes with rear drums

I have used both MMO & ATF in the past. Both stopped lifter tick....a hazard of liking Pontiacs I guess. I also pour MMO through the spark plug hole of an engine that has been sitting before cranking it over.

Enjoy it now because I think that in the long run this may not be as good as it looks.

Remember guys...we were all kids once, too

I wonder since they have a similar setup with coil buckets control arm and track bar mounts... If they just bolt in.... Again: The KJ uses a 3-link design with an upper ball joint in a wishbone. They have no more in common with the TJ than any other coil-spring rear axle design out there.

They are for posing on an RTI ramp not real world use IMHO . I have seen someone flop on a not too tough obstacle where a very similar jeep did not. The flopper was using these shackles.

The WMS-WMS measurements of a disc-brake TJ D44 & Disc-brake 8.25 are about .5" wider than the drum brake versions of the TJ/MJ/XJ. So for all intents and purposes they are the same.

The KJ is rear axle is the same width as MJ/XJ ones and is very close to TJ width.

Not a direct swap but neither is anything but a tj 44. Although they both use coil springs that is where it ends. The KJ uses lower arms but upper is a wishbone making it a three link. The advantage to the KJ 8.25 is the factory disc brakes. Any 8.25 is a great upgrade over a D35 and up to the task of 35's.