Incommando

Not bent like a WJ for tire clearance but like this: Returning the angle to nearly horizontal at the axle end approximates the factory angle without compromising the arc of travel excessively as a shorter straight arm going from mount to mount does. It may be hard to believe that it works especially as "internet experts" lump all short arms, straight and bent, into the same category and most are only repeating what they read on the internet themselves. Again I did not say "as good as" or "better than" the other options just that it does work and is cheaper.

Pete have you tried the bent lower arms that make the arms nearly horizontal? They work. If I had any modern technology I would Make and post a video of the ride and handling of my short arms without CAD as I drive around town and hit pot holes or go down the highway at 80 with one finger on the wheel. Although I could have better flex the truck is perfectly capable. If I had an extra grand I probably would have gone with a long arm set-up, though.

Rubicon express makes a good drop bracket setup for the mj, Straight bolt on. Only if you just use the brackets. The highly recommended reinforcement plates require modification

I have a link in my sig. Although long arms or CAD may be the best way to go they are not required for 5.5-6" of lift. I take mine off road regularly. I also drive it around town and several hundreds miles on the freeway at a time with no issues. I use adjustable uppers and bent solid lowers. I went with 5.5" springs but I am probably going to add .5-.75" spacers. The addition of the winch with the steel cable has caused a slight rake to the front. Some folks don't mind a rake like the stock trucks have but I don't like it. So you need 5.5,6, or 6.5" front springs. You will need an adjustable track bar/heavy duty mount combo. You will need extended brake lines. Then you will need your choice of adjustable uppers and custom lowers for your lift height (cheapest), adjustable lowers/uppers. CAD brackets (as far as I know Rocky Road has the only ones that need no mods for the MJ), or long arms.

Jacob could you post up the washer and bolt specs for us?

Complete 14 bolts sell for as little as $100 around here. Much cheaper than a repair.

The c-clip thingy is for the rear. The front axles are retained by the unit bearing not c-clips

so, I can replace the CAD with the one piece shaft from this?Yep. Big joint shafts. Don't forget the inner seal when replacing when replacing the two piece shaft

Yep. Fill it when welding the brackets on.

By a couple of years he means that half of the vehicles he mounted antennas on were hay-powered

Even the Spicers just come with the smaller clips not full circle ones. :(

I did this using a '91 AW4 and a d300. If it helps I bought the adapter from a guy in the Cherokee section of Pirate. You might look for that as it was only $50 a few years ago and it worked fine. If it helps you figure out what d300 you have jeep only used them in '80-'86 CJ's. I am about 70% sure they are all the same

Highly recommend replacing those C clips with full circle clips, especially if you wheel off road often. Why? Under load the u joint saddles can deform, lose the C clip, lose the bearing cap, trash the axle or stub. Guess how i know...first time out with unmodified axles. Had to replace a brand new U joint and trashed stub.Search is your friend.... I did this on my new Spicer shafts with 760 joints. It does require clearance a little bit below each yoke to get the full circle clips on

The later transfer cases( rubber boot) have a sealed output shaft. That means that if you break your rear driveshaft or in some cases your rear end you can take your driveshaft off and drive it as a FWD. The older ones do not do this and if you pull the driveshaft off or even out ( which can happen if you have a lot of flex) then all of the T-case lube runs out and you are done. Although they are both the same strength this revision is a great improvement over the earlier set-up. The easiest way to be sure of the t-case is to look at the gear shaped tag which faces to the rear of the case or look at your shifter. 231 is 2hi 4hi N 4lo while 242 has an added position for 4fulltime

Nothing directly crosses. It is basically a 2008 Grand Cherokee. If you want to do a hemit swap buying a complete vehicle is a smart way to go as you get everything.

99% of it is just the standard trim package for the level. But it could all be mixed/matched so none of it matters much or is set in stone. You can get a 4.0/auto "base" Sportruck SWB with the towing package, A/C and D44 rear like was the factory set up on my '88 or you can wind up with the higher trim package Pioneer LWB with a 2.5, stick, D35 and no a/c.

:laughin:

Still waiting to see pics of those factory 3" wide Comanche springs instead of front International springs.

IIRC the '91/'92 uses a 10 x 1.75 shoe. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Brakes-Steering/Rear-Brake-Shoes.aspx?t_c=65&t_s=542&t_pt=5247&t_pn=CRO4713365 You didn't mention the year of the axle so I thought I would throw that out there. The Dana 35 can be 9" or 10"

You can use the shafts out of the front axle but the axle itself is the weaker low pinion design

The wheel hubs have to be removed. This requires a large socket ( 36mm IIRC) that few people have laying around. They run from $10- up depending on where you get them. Both removing the shafts and then replacing the u-joints has been covered to death everywhere. If you learn like I do you will benefit from searching them out on YouTube and watching it done. If you have a driveline shop in your area you can take your shafts out and take them there. They will often be able to R&R the u-joints for next to nothing and often while you wait. Spicer u-joints are the way to go, BTW.

That kit will work fine. You need to choose a way to adapt your drive shaft yoke to the 8.8 pinion yoke. There are several ways. To go SOA you will need to lengthen brake lines and some other stuff. Tons of info on here. One example is in my sig line but read a few and decide how you want to do it.

The yoke from my '91 2wd fit fine on the sealed t-case output I swapped in. The donor was a '98.

My MJ had only the engine driven fan as it is a non-A/C truck. The best thing that I ever did for cooling was to add a factory aux. electric fan in the stock position. If you do not have one I would add one first thing. I am going to raise the rear of the hood as soon as I get around to it. I ended up going with Lebaron vents as someone offered me a stupid high price for my Pontiac ones. This may be the best pic that I have of them

Mailed my registration. I will be parking trailers until 3 Friday, though. The club I am in is working the event. I am paying $25 to work for 6 hours.... Hmm...... :nuts: