Incommando

:fs1: Sorry, no pics, but the story... No hooks on the MJ as they are still on the to-do list ( I wheel the KJ). I was pulling a friend's shrubs out for him and doing the no-no of the tow strap around the trailer ball of my step bumper. The first 7 went easy as pie. 8th would not budge. Gave it a bit of a running start and the bumper pulled up in the center like a tent. Unfolded the bumper seams like I was trying to do it. It peaked so high the tailgate would not lay flat when open. And the shrub is still there....

thanks all

My search skills must be way weak. I am looking for some good sources for spring perches and shock mounts to do a SOA on my rear D44 with a minimum of fuss. If you use SOA or perches in a search, for example, the info overload is massive. Anyone have some favorite links saved that they could direct me to? Good photos? Thanks in advance.

excellent choice

I think that mentality is the kind of thing that allows things like this to happen. This thread is long on righteous indignation and short on alternatives. If your yard is open to the public for access with no signage or barriers most states hold that anyone can enter & remain unless told to leave. There is a solid discussion point to begin with...

Ok, so maybe you are a post 'ho without an MJ. I don't know you, so WTH, here goes: You are an addict. You will always be an addict as people who are prone to be addicts will be addicts. You need to replace your addiction with something less destructive. For many, the replacement addiction that works is a 12 step program that becomes a spiratual addiction. Whatever works, you need to find a new addiction. If you were a good man, you might try becoming addicted to being the best dad that you can. Any donor can be a father as conception is a chemical process: try being a dad. It is a hell of a lot of work, but there is nothing like it if you do it right. If you are trolling a subject as serious as this for kicks, I hope karma kicks you square in the manberries. If not, best of luck to you on kicking a life threatening condition.

I hope that you are not planing on using that shop from your other threads that couldn't tell a pass. drop front from a driver's. You have several posts asking for advice. That is fine and dandy. But are you willing to listen to advice, or read the advice posts? Buy a matching axle set from an MJ ( probably scarce). Avoid the D35 if you want to hit it hard. You can find these sets in 3.55 all day for cheap, and some 4.10's. Other ratio's are out there but the 3.55 seems most common. The same rules apply for an XJ axle set, except you will need to swap your spring perches, a very easy operation for anyone but a shop that can't tell a LP from a HP. I would not let them tighten my lug nuts. Buying a match axle set is BY FAR the cheapest and easiest way to do this. There is no cheap/easy D44 front. This swap is probably not the best for someone without some solid experience. This is not for you. The 8.8 rear is an easy swap with just the right driveshaft and a spring perch movement needed. But finding the matching front that is an easy and/or cheap bolt in is the issue. Paying to have gears swapped is usually fairly expensive. YOU NEED TO FIND A MATCHING SET OF MJ/XJ AXLES IN A BETTER RATIO OR BUY AN MJ/XJ FRONT TO MATCH YOUR EXISTING REAR. You probably ought to hook up with some local wheelers who know something about jeeps to keep from screwing yourself over, which will lead to frustration and an abandoned project. That happens all of the time. Getting in over your head is a huge but common mistake, so befriend someone local who can help you with the swap, help you weed BS from good info, help you tell which direction shocks point on an axle, and keep the fact that swapping a 6-lug rear Rodeo axle without a matching lug pattern front leads to more expense/work to make them match or two carrying two spares or going without in mind. Good luck on your build.

What is best is a lot like any opinion...everyone has one.... From my experience and research, I would go with the Aussie locker if I was going with a drop-in. Unless i had an 8.25 rear: There appears to be issues with that application, especially the newer versions. Several KJ owners with 29-spline 8.25's have sent Aussies back under warranty. ( yes, i have one. No, I have no had an issue) The new spartan locker is the cheapest and is getting some good press. The powertrax "no slip" probably is the most invisible on the road, but is much more expensive than the others. As you have read, drop-ins are a lot easier to install and cheaper, but the are generally not as strong and/or versatile as the replacement carrier locker.

nsg370 FTW!!!!! :D

Get a XJ/MJ hpd30 with 297 u joints with a gear ratio that matches your rear and call it a day.

1. THAT FRONT AXLE WILL NOT WORK UNLESS YOU CHANGE AT LEAST YOUR TRANSFER CASE! It is not an adjustment. 2. '80 & up front FSJ axles have the correct driver's drop 3. Ferds have the correct driver's drop 4. No matter what you will need to swap both axles or use adapters to get matching lug patterns front/rear 5. You can use an off-set FSJ rear D44 with a centered output t-case: jeep did it from the factory for years in manny trannied FSJ;s, like a T18/D20 combo. All that you need is th e proper driveshaft. Your front swap should probably be put on hold until you get some more research under your belt.

The badges unbolt from the grille, and also were available on other jeeps like CJ's & Commandos. You can find just the badge and attach it to the current grille.

Aren't most steel aftermarket wheels, especially the cheaper ones like the d-windows and soft 8, NOT hub centric?

d44 rears are not full floating: they are semi-float. As stated, your easiest option for a rear wih an LSD already in it is an 8.8. If you keep your tire size small, maybe a lunchbox locker would be the easiest and most cost effective answer if they are available for the D35?

I have a posi-lok for my CAD D30, but was discouraged from running a lunch box locker and the posi=lok because of adverse handling?

The best thing about the single piece axle swap is the u-joint upgrade. If that doesn't interest you, the many ways to lock & essentially by-pass the CAD look promising. Bounty Hounter: Can you provide some more info on flipping the cover upside down? I admit that I have never heard of that before and it interests me as a temp measure until an axle upgrade. My CAD actually works, but they seem to fail just when needed most.

To clear it up a bit for those reading later: Soildly mounted hooks on the vehicle are fine. Metal hooks on tow straps and cables, especially when trying to cheap out and use the inappropriate equipment, are as dangerous as can be and should not be used. The sudden snap and stretch of a vehicle to vehicle recovery provide totally different stresses than the slow, steady, linear pressure of a winch to vehicle recovery. Even a winch cable used as a recovery strap is much more likely to fail than if it is used properly. They only thing that should really be used for a snatch recovery is a snatch strap. Everything else is designed for slow, steady constant pressure.

I think the vinegar thing is English? I never knew there was a 3rd chowder.... But....fair food.... funnel cakes.... I thought of a chain of shops that served nothing but fair food...call them Midways...

:cheers:

Have you priced one of thoe Liberty tupperware light bars? :eek: You can get some lift for cheap by going to the parts store and picking up a pair of $10 spacers for the front and 7.5" chevy drop shackles for the rear....

Some of your meaurements are a little off maybe? The front axle SHAFT diameter is probably not 2.5" unless maybe you are measuring where the bearing runs ...the tube may be... IIRC, the advantage of the modern axle is the lower rolling resistance of the unit bearings vs. the multiple tapered bearings in the other set. I have seen write-ups for people pulling the front drive shaft to try to improve mileage to no effect. I would think you can do this project if you want to, but if you are doing it strictly for the economics you aren't going to realize a profit for years if at all, especially if you consider your time worth anything.

Why no d-ring provision?

Waggy rear springs are notorious for wearing out. The term is "wag sag" and is a common occurence. So as with any used spring set, what you wind up with lift-wise will depend on the condition of the donor springs well as the original application. To clarify: I was not naysaying the choice, just pointing out that used springs are a crap shoot and you have to be careful to get what you need. Worn out springs that fit can still make a several inch difference from good springs from the same donor model. I have a good low mile set of FSJ springs put away but my MJ springs seem pretty good based on ride comfort and height.

I puked a little in my mouth

IIRC they have a single speed transfer case that can be replaced with one that has low range. The carbs on those era 4.2's suck hard...but they are cool