Incommando

Picked up a hi-top fiberglass topper with sliding screened windows from the fo' sale section. I will pos pics eventually... 8) My 4.5" lift is in boxes waiting to get slapped on.

Thanks .... You'd think that people trying to sell a product would know WTH they were selling.... :fs1:

Is the axle tubes on the D44 2.75", like a D35, or 3.0", like most D44's & an 8.25"? Confusion is reighning in u-bolt ordering :hmm:

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... ts_id=1136 There are other sources out there, but here is one example. A small spacer lift may need to be added to fine tune the lift if that bumper combo is extra heavy. I am sure that it goes without saying that getting the jeep 7" higher with the bumper is the easiest part of making a 7" lift work.

I have been preaching that for years, but it is not as sexy to say " I regeared." Here is something I posted just today on another forum: I know that bragging rights are cool, but I question the need for any more horsepower in a KJ. All you will do it render the driveline more likely to break. Even for mall crawlers. I had a 1981 CREW CAB Chevy C30 long bed pick-up with a 350/4v engine. That vehicle had 160 hp and 260 #'s of TQ. I towed a 7,000 car/trailer combo for ten's of thousands of miles, and the truck weighed almost 1,200 #'s more than the KJ, which has 210 hp and 230 #'s of TQ!!!!!!!!! Amazing that people can't get by with the KJ's power... The one advantage the truck had was 4.56 rear gears. If you want more performance without destroying potential dependability and longevity, a gear swap is a much smarter, probably cheaper, and less impactful mod. keep in mind that the KJ weighs about 1,000# more than an MJ.....

Nice score! I am not 100% in agreement with the D60 being the same strength as a D44. This is not the common belief in the drag racing world where shafts and destroying diff's is potentially fatal, not just a nuisance. I was running 10.30's on a stock D60-2 under a lightened '70 'cuda. I agree that D44/D60 J20 axles sets are much more pricey than some other set-ups. People must like the mid-width....

The SF D60's are called D60-2's. and could also be found under hemi & track-pak equipped Mopars for a few years. They have the 5x4.5 BP, but are not economically feasable... There are several versions on the D70: find a SRW D70HD for the ultimate. You can file the housing down and run a D60 cover, so it hangs no lower than a D60. The 14ff is silly strong, too, but needs a lot of cutting unlesss you want to run 38's and get less ground clearance than 35's on a D60.

Chief was an appearance package available for a few years. Others inlcuded Pioneer, Larado, & Eliminator, etc.... Chief's had a plethora of factory striping

CJ - 1945 - 1986 (Very rare 1945 CJ2 started direct civilian sales-earlier models were all military models designated MB & 1946 was the CJ2A) DJ - 1954 - 1982 ??years SJ - 1963 - 1991 AKA FSJ (SJ was coined with the '84 XJ Wagoneer/SJ Grand Wagoneer split)-includes J-series trucks, Wagoneers, and the original Cherokee FC - 1956 - 1965 (Forward Control pick-up) FJ- 1961-1965 Fleet Van MJ - 1986 - 1992 (Comanche) XJ - 1984 - 2001 (Cherokee) YJ - 1987 - 1995 (Wrangler) TJ - 1997 - 2006 (Wrangler) JK - 2007 - present (Wrangler) ZJ - 1993 - 1998 (Grand Cherokee) WJ - 1999 - 2004 (Grand Cherokee) WK - 2005 - present (Grand Cherokee) KJ - 2002 - 2007 (Liberty) KK - 2008 - present (Liberty) MK - 2007 - present (Compass / Patriot) XK - 2006 - present (Comander) a few sub models: VJ- 1949-1951 (Jeepster sportscar) C101 1966-1971 Jeepster Commando C104 1972-1973 Jeep Commando

It doesn't matter if you can't cut a light... :D

I have two practically new 9/32-16's bias TSL's and I would like to find two nearly new ones to make a set without paying $200/ea for them... If some of you guys can find me something on a for sale section or craigslist while you are looking around anyway, I'd appreciate it. Plus if they are within driving distance of Dayton, OH.

Thanks for the tip. I actually wanted to go with the relocation kit to make it easy to add an oil cooler. I have a couple of small tranny coolers laying around and I was going to plumb one into the oil system. I won a $50 gift card from 4wd as a door prize at a jeep event. I wanted to use it up. SO, to make things worse: I place an order for some bumper end caps and the like, trying to get as close to $50 as possible as at this point I do not want to really do business with 4wd/4wheelparts same people. My total with shipping and tax = Subtotal: $42.35 Shipping: $9.99 Tax: $3.99 Gift Card ***************9471 Applied: -$50.00 Grand Total: $6.33 I have to add my debit card for the remaining $6.33 and authorized ONLY that amount. Guess what? The thieving bastids charged all $56.33 to my debit card! A totally unauthorized charge. So I emailed them: Folks, we have a serious issue here with you making an unauthorized deduction from my account. This receipt shows that you were authorized to deduct $6.33 from my account. You in fact deducted the entire $56.33. This deduction is fraudulent and completely unauthorized. I expect the stolen $50.00 to be credited to my account IMMEDIATELY. Subtotal: $42.35 Shipping: $9.99 Tax: $3.99 Gift Card ***************9471 Applied: -$50.00 Grand Total: $6.33 And from my account: 7/28/2010 Deb Card Withdrawal X TO S008 718025 *POS* 4 WHEEL DRIVE #823 COLUMBIANA OH 000 ($56.33) Blue = copy & paste from actual documents There was a phone conversation saying that I should relex, they do this on EVERY gift card charge and that within 3 or 4 business days the $50 will be returned! I go through the roof and they insist it is their standard practice. They say if I do all of the leg work to get a form from my bank saying that the charge was unauthorized and fax it to them, they would sign it and fax it to my bank in the hope that it would speed up the refund process. WTH? Their email response: The entire amount deducted is a pre-authorization only. The funds will release back into the account within 24-48 hours. If you need the funds released sooner we would need to know what information the bank needs from us, a contact name, and fax or e-mail address. I am sorry for the confusion and inconvenience. Thank you, Judy 4WD Customer Service These people are thieves. Their charging my card is illegal and not standard industry practice.

I am glad that I did not have to rely on my memory, but I knew that many have flat & dolly towed with the part-time case: I was not sure about the 242. 231 equipped vehicles are very popular with the RV'ers as those geezers are not crawling under jeeps pulling driveshafts whether the are flat or dolly towing. I checked with my '05 KJ's owner's manual. Although it is equipped with a 241J instead of a 231J, it also says to leave the auto in park/nsg370 in 1st and put the x-fer in neutral and have at it. I cannot explain why a bench experiment would lock the front and rear while in neutral. Perhaps moving the input by hand is so weak that the fluid still connected the two outputs whereas any mechanically powered movement would overcome the coupling. The claim that the two would be locked in neutral was very nonsensical to me. So.... I experemented myself. ANYONE can duplicate these results: 1. Park on slight incline and set rear parking brake. 2. Place the transmission in park 3. place transfer case in neutral 3. carefully jack up front axle - Now, here is the test part: IF the axles in the transfer are locked together as was claimed despite the evidence of the owner's manual, the front will not roll as that axle would supposedly be locked to the rear and the rear (A) is frozen in position by the brakes and (B) has the weight of the vehicle on them. 4. THE FRONT WHEELS ROLLED FREELY AS THE PURPOSE OF THE NEUTRAL SETTING ON THE X-FER IS TO UNLOCK THE FRONT FROM THE REAR COMPLETELY Conclusion: The owner's manual is correct and the reason that literally millions of miles have been towed with 231's in neutral, both flat-towing and on a dolly, without issue is because the axles are not locked together. Another point: If it was true that the axles are locked in neutral, even in flat-towing you would destroy the 231 due to the different wheel speeds will turning on pavement. Why do you not lock a 231 on pavement? To keep from breaking them up due to lack of differentiaition front to rear. So, flat towing in neutral would create the same issue and destroy the 231 IF it was locked in neutral. Conclusion #2: the axles are not locked in a 231 when it is in the neutral position.

In 1989 I went to the dealer to buy a grey SWB 4x4 MJ new, and ended up getting a 5.0 convertable Mustang GT 5-spd instead. It was a combined Jeep/Ford dealer. :roll: I have owned several odd-ball jeeps, including commando's and FSJ's, among my 12 previous jeeps. I had some FSJ parts being conveniently stored in the form of a Cherokee that someone wanted. They offered up this '88 Sportruck. They had put a new water pump, thermostat, RMS, oil pan, and radiator in this MJ and then let it sit until they misplaced or threw out all of the connectors to put the front body back on it. The swap was made, I put the front back on it (which included NIB fenders and chrome front bumper) and started driving it. At 104,780 miles, it is just getting broken in. 8) I have 32x11.5x15's A/T's on gambler wheels for it and I just ordered a 4.5" lift kit. :chillin: I like this little booger.

What is that??

If the jeep has a 231 transfer, IIRC you can leave it in neutral and go????

To follow up, Mr Garvin replied that the product is only available in bulk form and he "knew" I only wanted one of them. However, he then continues that the price on the website for a single kit is $59.99 and it is available that way...WTH? Why are you listing a single item when you can only buy it by the case? the answer, of course, is that you do not have to buy a case Don, When I checked your price match in my ordering system it indicated no longer available due to issues from a recent merger with a company we recently joined with. They had entered the NLA information because That item was only available in bulk form for a while and I knew you didn’t need a case of them. It is still available as a special order item, we don’t stock it here but I can order it in. The price match you indicate As our competitor is actually us, we are 4wd.com and I’ll need the info on where you had seen the item at a lower price, ours is $59.99. When it is entered into the cart so see any price break it stays at $59.99. The number once again is PMA10695. -Jim To which I responded: You do not list them by the case on the web site: you list them by the single piece and your company allowed me to add one to my cart today. That is the link I included in my prior email. I carried the transaction as far as possible before actual purchase. If you are aware that the product is only available in case form, or not at all, why are you still deceptively advertising this item for single purchase? I will repeat the YOU ARE AWARE of the issue yet allow the condition to continue. Your company will allow me to purchase the part today, just as it would the day that I made the price match request. That fact makes it look like you are either dodging a price match or you are trying to get people to give you money for a product that you cannot provide it a timely manner, but for which you will gladly hold onto the money. You even acknowledge in your email, buy saying you checked the web site, that the product that you "no longer carry" (your words) is being offered for sale, and singularly not in bulk as you claim. Fairly contradictory, yes? In my initial email contact requesting the price match I included a link, as requested, for summitracing.com and the exact part # being sold for $47.95: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-10695/. Perhaps the true story here is that you use your own part # in a SKU fashion to avoid the price match. Perma-cool's number is 10695. The prefix of PRM or PMA is, according to perma-cool, the designation that YOUR company uses to identify the product line internally. It is a sweet deal when you make up your own numbers so that you will never need to price match. I think it is clear that the 10695 kit by perma-cool is the same from your site to Summit's and any claims to the contrary are an attempt at misdirection at best.

I am not sure that A.M. General products actually count as jeeps...If they do, count the Humvee among Jeep trucks... The new 715 prototype on the JK/J8 frame is pretty sweet IMHO AM General was split off into a seperate company completely. If you recall that ChryslerJeep tried to sue Hummer for the 7-slot grille. They lost because the Humvee 7-slot grille was a product of AM Genereral when the companies were under the same ownership and was therefore entitled to use the grill.

They offer the "hockey stripes" for $50 on fleabay. Does anyone have a source for the Chief decal kit?

I have read bad reviews of this company, but as they are at least in-state I thought I would give them a shot. I wanted an oil-fliter relocation kit for the MJ to get rid of the upside-down oil filter that the early 4.0 I6' came with originally. 4wd lists the exact same part, by #, as summitracing.com. 4wd.com loudly touts their excellent customer service and price-matching so I emailed them, correctly using their lengthy price match request process to a "t", to request said price match. This is what followed: Initial response to my price match request: Thank you for requesting a price match from 4 Wheel Drive. All of us at 4 Wheel Drive want to earn your business. Please allow 24 hours for a response to your request (weekend and holiday emails will be answered the next business day). Followed by: In a message dated 7/22/2010 12:41:38 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jgarvin@4wd.com writes: Don, Unfortunately we don’t handle the oil filter relocation kit any longer, thanks for the inquiry. Jim Jim Garvin Sales Representative 44488 State Route 14 Columbiana, OH 44408 800-333-5535 x806 Fax: 330-482-5035 Email: jgarvin@4wd.com To which I replied: Mr. Garvin: I am writing to inform you that I have complaint regarding your false advertisement in regards to price matching and parts availability. Instead of price-matching a product as I requested, you claimed that you no longer carry the product. However, a of today's date, you not only list the product but your site allows it to be purchased at your 20% higher cost than that of you competitor. http://www.4wd.com/shoppingcart.aspx I find your business practices distasteful. I am certainly going to publicize your actions, including your email and a screen shot of your company allowing me to purchase the product (should I have wished to) at the original price after your claims that you no longer carry the product, to as wide an audience as possible via the Internet groups to which I belong. I am certain that you will claim that the product is not available, but even if that is true it speaks volumes about your customer service regarding the accuracy of your company's product claims, doesn't it? Now, before anyone questions the length of time it takes to update an invettory count on a computerized ordering system or to remove items from a website, please note that I am in a managerial postion with a multi-billion dollar mail order company that relies heavily on an online catalog. It is a very simple process to have your inventory updated with each sale; your local autozone, et al...does it, as does your Kroger's or whatever. That would prevent the item from being ordered when it is out of stock. However, they WANT you to order it without knowing it is back ordered because their "friendly customer service" includes trying to trick you. 4wd.com is a large company with dozens of outlets: surely they have a full time IT/web department that can remove an item that they CLAIM they no longer carry with a few keystrokes, not a few weeks. Reputable companies doe it all of the time. Buyer beware.

Eggzachery. The Rubi-type D44 is more of a hybrid. The use of D44's in serious rock climbing is hotly debated, and is generally only recommended for lighter rigs without a ton of horsepower. A HP front D44 helps, too. That being said, I have wheeled the snot out of FSJ''s with a 44/44 axle combo without issues, although it is not in areas where the wheels were consistantly getting stuck between rocks and where powering the axles when turned to max and in a bind was required.

I don't see the MJ listed under the Bestop?

Fezzik is the name of a character in The Princess Bride. He loved rhymes and was buddies with a spaniard, Inigo Montoya.

Do you like rhymes, and do you have a little spanish friend? :D

If the M20's biggest issue has been eliminated by a 1 piece axle conversion, it is not uncommon to do a little stitch welding where the tubes go into the 3rd member and to make a simple ( even mitre box version) over-the-3rd-member truss to help the actual M20's weaknesses: spinning the tubes in the housing and bending the tubes. :thumbsup: