silvertwinkiehobo

Joe and I have converted his '88, although I'm a fan (pardon the pun) of a well-executed closed loop system, this one just had a truly crappy tank. So we got a couple used but excellent condition radiators from the J/Y, and both have the bung for the older fan temp sensor, but after burping the system three times from cold to hot and back down, it works beautifully. I made a junkyard run in it with nearly 900 pounds of metals, and it never went over 220°, considering it was a hot Texas day, and I kept the trans in a lower gear, which kept the engine speed around 1800-2000 RPM.

Pretty much requires disassembly, but don't forget, you have four bearings (Input, output and two ends of the countershaft). You need to remove the trans just to verify which one is bad (placing the trans in N disengages the countershaft from the input or output shaft, depending on design).

So Joe and I have been working on putting air conditioning in his '88 Pioneer, as Texas heat can suck...especially this year. We finally found the harness I put together last year for underhood, so we wired it up, and with the dealer A/C connectors a part of the setup, we got the electricals put together and charged the system. It engages, the electric fan turns, and it gets cold. But, the A/C dash controls are having troubles. In each A/C setting the air is not coming out where it needs to. I have the control table from the manual, and I verified the source vac is strong (20"), but even with a spare control unit, I'm still not getting proper controls. Anyone have any ideas?

Okay, so this shows what to do with the CAD. I'm having a problem with the underhood connections for the t-case and HVAC supply connections from the vac reservoir. I cannot find any diagram for these, other than the underdash vac motor connections, which simply say 'supply.' I measured vacuum from the source and had a strong 20" vacuum, but with the vac harness plugged into the control head, we're not getting correct HVAC door operation, like the MAX setting gets air at the defrost and floor but almost no air at the dash vents, when it should be at dash panel with floor bleed. All three A/C settings are not correctly controlled. As for the t-case and CAD controls, the blue line is disconnected, and I can't find where it's supposed to be connected. When vac is supplied, the dash 4HI light comes on, so I'm not even sure if the t-case or the axle is engaging.

Yes, you'll want to verify that, as having a disconnected cable affects line pressure, and can shorten the transmission's life.

Find an AX-15 if you can, but otherwise, pull the BA and verify the condition of the bearings manually.

Dang! I was hoping.... I'll have Maveric post up the pic he took that day. Maybe the owner will see it, maybe someone will recognize it.

I know this is off-topic, but is your shortbed red? And were you at Pick n Pull San Antonio last week? If so, Maveric and I were the two goons in the Ford service truck waving at you about your MJ.

4X4. The Far Side or Bizarro?

Never mind. The Volvos you want to look for are 96-98 960/S90/V90 with the 2.9L I-6, and the 97-98 850/V70/C70/S70 with the 2.3 and 2.4L I-5.

Joe and I are heading to the yards Wednesday, and I'm trying to find what Volvos the 746 injectors were installed in. A search on here has not yielded any list (Joe had one for me a few months ago), and I thought he might've got it off here.

That is hilarious! Now I know why Pick n Nose and Wrench-a-Sack have wheelbarrow sales.

Just don't gargle it.

For a four-year-old, it's mind-blowing.

We'll keep our eyes peeled, try to get a pic. It's unbelievable.

I couldn't get a pic, but someone here in Seguin made a Liberty monster truck....

I lived where that plane was built, along with all the other 747's, in Everett, WA. I even lived in the military housing next door to the 747 plant when Boeing built it, and flew the first one. Standing at the end of the runway to watch one take off is a sight like no other, especially when you're a small kid.

Haven't we all? Although, I am warming up to some of the Country and Folk artists Mom would listen to at full-volume on her stereo record player (a Sears Silvertone, if you want a visual). Annie's Song and another song I don't know the name to, by John Denver, are a couple examples.

I texted him, he said just the mudflaps and factory fogs. I'd like to do a trade; we have good-condition door panels with armrests, interior door handles, a matched pair of AMC door locks with keys, an AMC ignition lock with factory key, '88 steering wheel in fair condition, a full set of cab plastic trim, window crank handles, and a whole bunch of other goodies.

Are you looking for anything? Maveric and I have plenty of parts we've snagged over the months, and I'll talk with him, see if there's anything he'd be interested in.

Hah! Maverick himself has seven, and I have two! Four in the driveway, one in the garage, two on the street, and two in the back yard! As for the eliminator, how's the interior condition? Do you plan on a 4WD conversion?

From the Dad Jokes jokebook: "Why does a chicken coop have two doors? "Because if it had four doors, it'd be a chicken sedan."

I know this is a simplistic question, but has anyone ever googled "obsolete AMC Jeep parts?"

Very nice, but they couldn't rebuild a 345 CID drivetrain? I'm sick of this "LS swap it" crap.

Before you ditch it, does the arm actually move? I'd think that if it does, the valve can actually work. The trick in bleeding the rears is to put a load in the bed, then bleed them. Of course, do the rear bleeding, then do the fronts, but have the valve hooked up, load the bed with weight (Maveric's boys and myself sat on the tailgate while he and Mrs. Maveric did the bleeding), then run through the complete bleed sequence.