derf

Pulled the drivetrain out. Now I can strip back paint to see how much rust I have to fix.

I got my steps in today for sure.

A little snow in Colorado this morning.

Pulled the engine and got the axles under it today.

How did it handle heat?

Once the sheet metal work is done, I'm going to be doing a full sandblast to bare metal and a full repaint. Once the paint dries, I'm going to want to do some kind of a liner inside and not run carpet. Maybe have a rubber floor mat at most. I'm trying to figure out the best liner to run. I want something more than bed liner. I've been considering LizardSkin, going with the sound deadener, ceramic heat insulation, and then a top coat. Does anyone have good experience with LizardSkin or one of their competitors? Any suggestions on alternatives to look at?

Finally got some more time for tear down. There's a little bit of rust on the floor boards.

The internals of the 231 use one solid piece to shift in and out the front output as well as selecting hi-n-lo. You'd have to design a system to separate the two functions. That would mean a new or highly modified case. It's possible. Just nowhere as easy as it is with a fully gear driven case.

A transfer case is easy-ish to rebuild. I would say that if one bearing is going out, all of them probably have excessive wear. And if you're replacing one you should replace them all while it's apart. Which goes back to no kit for the 207 unfortunately.

I've been sort of working in my 1997 F250HD. The project stalled this year as other stuff took precedence. Previous owner butchered the under dash wiring harness but I found a replacement. It should be showing up today. I'll be messing with it over the winter and hopefully get it running so I can go get plates. To tow the Jeeps I have a 10K rated car hauler that I'll probably replace the deck on next year sometime.

You can piece together a 6 lug rotor to fit with the JB7 caliper. I don't know part numbers but the K5 and full size Jeep crowd would probably have some suggestions.

There are a few differences with Ford vs Chevy outers. But it's easy to just go all in and choose one or the other. There's really no strength advantage for the 5 vs 6 spindle bolts. Other parts will fail before you break that. Standard Ford was 5 on 5.5" wheel bolt pattern while standard chevy was 6 on 5.5". I don't remember how well the wheel hub interchanges. It could possibly affect brakes. I believe both had an 8 on 6.5" wheel hub option in the ¾ ton that is just a wheel hub and brake parts. The knuckle and spindle don't change. For me, I'd figure out the rear axle bolt pattern I want to run and then pick the knuckle and hub/brakes to get a matching bolt pattern up front. If you do go with the ¾ ton 8 on 6.5" I'd lean towards chevy and do the JB7 brakes. That gives you bigger rotor and calipers that were an option on the K20 in the 80s.

Whatever winch you get, it's only as good as your battery. Winches draw over 300 smps. Some can draw over 500. No alternator is going to feed that. You need a strong battery. Get a good quality battery with a high CCA rating. Your winch will thank you.

Probably has red locktite on the bolts.

Roses are red Violets are blue I fixed my Jeep It's good as n....now what's wrong?

I did not try either of those wheels. And I no longer own the XJ so I can't check them. I suspect all 15" wheels rub the same.

I have thought of that. I'd need a couple originals as templates.

Gonna build an exo cage. I need to do body work and paint first. I may also end up bending some steering and/or suspension pieces depending on how exactly everything lays out. I'm doing 1.75" OD for the cage. Probably get a die for 2" for the suspension and steering. The bender can do up to 0.250" wall tubing.

It'll be a while until I can use this but I wanted it to be here ahead of time. The hydraulic pump is on the way.