derf

Yeah, if you buy and sell a lot on Craigslist or Facebook marketplace, or anywhere like that, it helps to have a venmo account. PayPal too. There's probably a few more as new ones come up from time to time. But those are the two biggest.

I know my mother and both of my sisters have something like this. It's a box that plugs into a cable modem/router internet connection somewhere in the house and then ties into the phone lines already in the house. The old copper phone company feed has to be disconnected at the box coming into the house. But it works like a regular old style home phone and they like it. I'll have to ask what brand they have. I've been cell phone only for about 15 years now and have been happy with it.

If you could turn the MJ around quick, what would make it worthwhile? Or if someone bought straight from him so he had the cash, how much would it take?

Something is worn more than you think it is. There should be zero play in all 4 steering joints. None. If there is any at all, it's enough to induce vibration. Same with ball joints. Any play leads to vibration. Even play that's hard to see. Same with control arm and track bar bushings. Worn bushings can contribute to vibration. Could be all of it together. Each part by itself may not be bad but all together, there's enough slop to cause issues. If you haven't changed parts in 20 years, they're probably overdue.

I agree that a detailed description of the vibration would help. Since you have had the tires balanced, that's likely not the issue. Things to check: 1. Ball joints. Get the tires off the ground and really move the tires around. Use a pry bar if you need to. 2. Steering components, specifically tierod ends. At the steering box, at the joint where the two sides meet, and out at the knuckles. Check that the nuts are tight and there is no excessive play in the joints. 3. Bushings. All 4 control arms and the track bar. Check bolts are torqued to spec and that bushings aren't worn. 4. Steering stabilizer. It doesn't hurt to have a fresh one if it's worn, but it won't cause or solve vibration by itself

HP quality isn't fantastic. Don't know about Lenovo.

I have questions...

I might know someone.

They had an issue, at least for a while, during Covid. Excessive runout keeping you from getting a consistent pattern. Don't know if they've sorted it out or not.

On the one hand it was a chromoly shaft. But it's a Dana 35. Chromoly only helps so much when the shaft diameter is that small. I would get a shaft that fits and limp it along while building the 8.8 sooner rather than later.

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/longmont-leer-truck-topper/7823729168.html

I have a tubing bender now. I just need the right size die and some steel. This winter has sucked for getting anything done. This summer should be better. Once I make one for me and figure out how not to screw it up I'll start making more.

I have one in Denver. May be too far away. I have shipped a bench seat via Greyhound. It is slow and you have to pick it up at the terminal but it's not stupid expensive.

I'll confirm what has been said already. The pinion has 26 splines. The dana 30 and 44 also have 26 spline pinions. They use the same yokes. But the Dana 35 uses a different 26 spline yoke.

The CJ never came with a Dana 35 from the factory. They ran a Dana44 or AMC20 depending on the year. So CJ gears won't help you.

Keeping them clean is a key. The soaking in WD-40 can attract dust and dirt. That dirt will jam the pins enough to keep it from working. Thoroughly clean it and apply a dry lubricant and it should work fine.

There's nothing wrong with the 700R4 out of the same donor as the engine. Keep all the parts together and it will work fine. Rebuild the transmission with common upgrade parts and it will be a solid choice. Get an adapter from Novak or Advance Adapters and swap the tail shaft while you're in the transmission. Then the 242 bolts right up. The 4L80 is a tight squeeze in the transmission tunnel and it's overkill for a small block. Besides, the 700R4 gives you both a deeper first gear and taller overdrive. For manuals, the AX15 is my first choice followed closely by the NV3500/3550.

X4 on krustys

I'm on the software side but if you’re interested in building satellites, I have some contacts around the Denver area.

Yeah, given the age and clear coat issues, I'd sand the whole thing down and do new base/clear.

What are you studying?