derf

Same parts, 2wd or 4wd.

Probably the most cost effective option given how you'll use the truck.

While parts will swap, you don't want to just bolt in axle gears. Variances in the machining processes between the two means you can be off by enough that the gears won't mesh properly and you can have rapid failure. Of course, they could happen to fit perfectly too. No way to tell ahead of time. You would at the very least want to go through the install procedure for the gears to make sure they were lined up right. But it's still just a Dana 35 and not really an axle that you want to invest much in. It's probably less expensive to just take the other Dana 35 and swap out spring perches and shock mounts and run with it. If it were me, I'd look for a Dana 44 or Chrysler 8.25 from an XJ or KJ, swap gears if you need to, then weld on the right spring perches, and run that.

So, I uncovered a pretty disappointing fact. While the Jeep does have a mild lift, there is a problem. It's hard to read in the picture but it's a Rough Country lift. So, when it's time to regear, a BDS kit will go on to replace it. In the mean time I'm going to do a MORE steering box mount before the new bumper goes on. Most likely going with a Rock Hard 4x4 narrow bumper with no hoop. And they sell an 8274 mount that bolts on. It's reasonably priced for the way things are going right now. And it's simple.

BTW, I love how much easier these things are to work on.

And that's how you do that... A few jack stands to catch it as it comes off. 4 bolts, and it's free. The front end came up a good ¼ to ½ inch as I took it off.

Garage is (semi) clean and the CJ is now ready to get some love. First thing is to pull off the heavy front bumper that weighs too much and hangs low. It was probably good for the tow bar but I don't want or need that. The Warn 8274 rebuild is coming along nicely. I think I have all the replacement parts I need to get it back together.

Yep. They're substituting some parts with others that are close but not quite right. Stack a couple of washers to get the nut up where it needs to be. Grade 8 would be better. Less likely to deform.

And is it "updated" to swap 1970s axles into a 1980s MJ? Asking for a friend.

If the repair costs are more than the write off value, they won't really budge over that. For some of these rigs, you'd really be better off with an "agreed value" policy. It costs more but you get the agreed value covered instead of whatever blue book is

Purple wire is likely the sending unit wire. They're together in the tank.

Could be 80-86 model with a heavy duty AMC 20 rear end.

You must mean drain back valve. The pressure relief valve is built into the pump housing on the AMC V8.

Sounds like you may want to get a lawyer involved.

They're awful everywhere else too.

Having moved around a lot, I've found that the quality of the employees varies widely between stores. Some places AutoZone has the good old graybeards. Sometimes it O'Riley. And it can change as people come and go. Most of the time I research the part I want and find a good vehicle to respond with when they ask make/model/trim. It's just easier to do that than explain to them what you're doing. Though sometimes you can get to know the staff and they know you know what you're doing and just go grab the part you ask for. What irritates me is the "expert" employee who offers really low quality advice based on a lack of real understanding but they're at the peak of the Dunning-Kruger slope.

Magnum box is in

Yeah, unfortunately the 4 cylinder and 2WD will turn off many buyers at any price. Though a motivated buyer wanting a good condition truck for an engine swap would probably love it. Distance to that buyer is a significant impediment as well. Put it up on Bring A Trailer or Ebay, or both. Someone will see it there.

Yep. That will be the killer for most people not close to me in Denver.

I've had a couple of Centerforce clutches in my day. I get the CF or CF-II for stock replacement-ish applications and they perform well. I've heard good things about LUK as well. Stay away from the so-called high performance clutches. They tend to be less fun to drive every day. Good for performance driving, less so for daily use.

Likely not. I do already have the tubing bender along with a welder for other projects. That's the big up front expense. I'm going to build one for myself and at least one or two others regardless so buying the die for the bender will happen. I don't expect to sell many. And I'll probably lose money. But I'm not doing it for profit anyway. If a few people really want them I can make them once I get set up later this summer or fall.