derf

Sure, but an engine should get to an upper limit above the thermostat rating and stay there for the most part. If you're getting to 240° something else is wrong. It's one of a couple of thing. 1. Corrosion inside the block that prevents heat transfer to the coolant mix. 2. Corrosion or sediment in the radiator preventing heat transfer to the air. 3. Insufficient water flow. 4. Insufficient air flow. 5. Too much heat being generated by the engine for the cooling system to handle. #5 usually happens when you add forced injection to a naturally aspirated engine, but also can happen working then engine hard (possibly when its running lean).

He put in a lower temp thermostat so in theory it shouldn't run that hot.

Not mine. https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/arvada-1986-jeep-comanche-28l-v6-speed/7790711418.html

Yeah, once you let the magic smoke out, it stops working. And it's really hard to put it back in.

The more room the better. The pickup tube makes getting the pan out difficult. Last time I dropped the oil pan was when I was swapping the axle.

Good to know. Thanks.

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80050-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B0002UEPVI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=15AQHWKFHPBB7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.fLP8VZJHy7eZdy9Sc8JWXK4eI5yeTDLDnvCSa1Ob8tBlG4P0ZhApD30-54u2FXCykvc5Z6hnlMOFYx36rDxeilEBvm0aOstJZTb4c0puRm7BhffV5JznarRRrJRBpfIdkoVLIJjsD-cKwnhxxqabERBKeLjTwpmrKemFj5gQSl52d1qPoFoj6XNfhoPFPLnbp_gFkhgJlSR-QQsy2LDcbg.R0kWlK4QDULys3S5tOVM5KNMcC-uDvqjJqhxUB6od0U&dib_tag=se&keywords=headlight+glue&qid=1727200435&sprefix=headlight+glue%2Caps%2C285&sr=8-4

Popped up on craigslist. https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/arvada-comanche-emblems/7779132724.html Not mine. If he's not willing to ship I can run and grab them and send them to you.

I hate it when that happens.

I just got a set and they look good. Haven't had a chance to really look at them or install them.

It's not a bad idea to loosen the main caps. That lets the crank drop just a hair and gives you a little more wiggle room. Be sure to have a good torque wrench and torque them to spec after. And then double check them. OEM recommends soap as lube but petroleum jelly probably is good too. And yes, have a couple because you may shave some seal off putting it in if you're not careful. Those machined faces are a little sharp. Ask me how I know.

If memory serves, the torque spec for the oil pan bolts is like 15 or 25 ft-lbs. What are you torquing yours to?

There are changes in the AW4 over the years. Good info here: https://naxja.org/threads/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-the-aw4.1053970/

Got side tracked helping a buddy with a hot rod project. It's time to get serious about metal work. The tools are here to start that process. And time to start emptying boxes.

I hear second and third hand talk about the Mishimoto but I can't find too many actual failures. Just a bunch of "I heard they aren't good" posts with not much first hand experience. So I have a Mishimoto getting ready to go into my truggy project with a stroker. I'm still debating whether to use a high flow water pump or not. And I'm going to go with the triple electric fans, mostly because I'll be doing low speed crawling where the mechanical fan won't be up to full speed most of the time.

Personally, I prefer 3.55s with stock tires and up to 30s. They just work better overall. I would advise against used gears. They're hard to set up correctly. And most shops won't install them at all. The ones who do won't warranty the work. A new set of gears is < 10% of the total cost of a gear install. May as well go with new gears.