derf

On the one hand it was a chromoly shaft. But it's a Dana 35. Chromoly only helps so much when the shaft diameter is that small. I would get a shaft that fits and limp it along while building the 8.8 sooner rather than later.

https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/longmont-leer-truck-topper/7823729168.html

I have a tubing bender now. I just need the right size die and some steel. This winter has sucked for getting anything done. This summer should be better. Once I make one for me and figure out how not to screw it up I'll start making more.

I have one in Denver. May be too far away. I have shipped a bench seat via Greyhound. It is slow and you have to pick it up at the terminal but it's not stupid expensive.

I'll confirm what has been said already. The pinion has 26 splines. The dana 30 and 44 also have 26 spline pinions. They use the same yokes. But the Dana 35 uses a different 26 spline yoke.

The CJ never came with a Dana 35 from the factory. They ran a Dana44 or AMC20 depending on the year. So CJ gears won't help you.

Keeping them clean is a key. The soaking in WD-40 can attract dust and dirt. That dirt will jam the pins enough to keep it from working. Thoroughly clean it and apply a dry lubricant and it should work fine.

There's nothing wrong with the 700R4 out of the same donor as the engine. Keep all the parts together and it will work fine. Rebuild the transmission with common upgrade parts and it will be a solid choice. Get an adapter from Novak or Advance Adapters and swap the tail shaft while you're in the transmission. Then the 242 bolts right up. The 4L80 is a tight squeeze in the transmission tunnel and it's overkill for a small block. Besides, the 700R4 gives you both a deeper first gear and taller overdrive. For manuals, the AX15 is my first choice followed closely by the NV3500/3550.

X4 on krustys

I'm on the software side but if you’re interested in building satellites, I have some contacts around the Denver area.

Yeah, given the age and clear coat issues, I'd sand the whole thing down and do new base/clear.

What are you studying?

The coil on plug was only for 2000-2001 XJs (2000-04 TJ and WJ). Before that it was still remote coil and distributor.

No wires, it's coil on plug. Once the coil packs start to go, you have to replace the whole assembly. Personally I'd go with whatever is cheaper, the viper mod or factory replacement coil pack.

I'll be the guy in the red 4 door JL on 37s. If you want to try to work out a CC get together I'm up for it.

I'll be there again this year. I'm leading Flat Iron Mesa on Wednesday. I'll be tail gunning 3 other trails (don’t know which yet). I won't have an MJ with me. I'll be driving my JL.

Still waiting on the upgrade of the electrical panel and getting 220V outlets in the garage. And I'm working a bit of overtime right now.

The AX4 doesn't have overdrive so I'm not sure I'd go to 4.56 with 31s. That puts you up near 4K on the tach on the freeway. Maybe with an AX5.

Yeah, that's my calculator. Glad y'all find it useful. I don't have a "this is optimal" shortcut. Trouble is, there's so many variables to what is optimal. A high revving motor for mud bogging is completely different than a diesel for rock crawling. So the ratio you want can vary. Even in the same truck, the answer depends on too many things to factor in. The RPM data is good if you know where you want to end up. You can do side by side comparison to match a gear ratio to a tire size change and keep the performance close to stock. Or if you're always downshifting you can try shorter gears (higher number) to get it where you want it. If you really scream down the highway in top gear you can see what it takes to make that more reasonable.

I like the Tom Woods kit I put in an XJ. Took advantage of swapping the shaft to do a full rebuild with bearings and seals. I haven't done any of the others to compare.

One possible source for the chirp is a bearing going bad. Put it in 4HI with the driveshaft out and see if you still get the noise. It's also a good idea to check fluid levels. Make sure the case is being lubricated properly.

Any older vehicle, especially one that is ove 30 years old, can possibly be reliable as a daily driver. The caveat is that a vehicle that old will require no small amount of maintenance. If that maintenance has been done (either over the years or in one big restoration effort), especially dealing with any rust, there's no reason it can't be reliable. If any of the serious maintenence hasn't been done, I would focus on doing that before trying to use it as a daily.

You will get higher temps shortly after shutting down. The coolant will soak in residual heat and spike a little. As soon as you start it running again the pump will push cooler water through and should bring it back down in short order. So I wouldn't worry too much about that. Focus on temps while driving and idling.