OldSch88L

That's more like it!!!

My bad!!! Didn't know these were a renix thing!!!

Did you check your fusible links? Here's a picture for reference; it's the black sleeve things. They're gonna be in the engine compartment near the battery.

I don't know about you, but I've never seen a 4 banger XJ or MJ at the junkyard yet, so I would have grabbed that radiator, being exclusive to that body style. Engine parts don't worry me since you can also get some from YJs.

My transfer case output seal is leaking, and the oil slinger (I have and external slip yoke 242 t-case), well slings oil on the exhaust, and it does smell strong and really bad, being ATF. Smells nothing like motor oil; kind of more aggressive of a smell similar to burning plastic. Might want to take a look. And for the bad buff job, the ideal situation is to give the clear a month to fully harden and solvent to permeate throught. I you have a paint booth with a bake function and you know what you're doing, you can buff it the next day, but even then, you're on thin ice. My guess is the clear still wasn't hard enough when they gave it a try.

Oh and btw, the Power/ VOL/BAL/FAD button seems pretty loose in every direction

Hey there Minuit, you seem like the reference when it comes to radios. I've read a couple of pages but I'm kind of confused as to what exact model I have.... Anyways, it worked fine when I got the truck, but nowadays the sound just cuts off after a few seconds even though the other radio functions seems ok. Notice that I never got sound from the rear speaker since I got the truck ( most probably blown), garble only from passenger front and fine from driver front. Always works the next day, but always for less than 10 seconds. Any ideas? Thanks!

Recent interior pics

Not familiar with type 1 or 2, but the date on the full, replacement cluster was from the nineties, 1996 IIRC.

What about the fan shrouds? They seem offset on the 4.0 radiators, am I right?

Pretty much all I could find in the last couple of years. It's for a short bed by the way. When I took my auto body course in something like 2015-2016, I took a look on Mitchell's and all the specs and complete measurements were available. I don't know if it's still the case, sure hope so!!!

A little bit of love for the MJ this week! A good wash, buffed with Meguiar's Ultimate compound, and wax! Turned that faded orange peel of a paint right around!!!

That would be my pick! Pretty sure it's the same muffler I put on my Ranger; not the glasspack cylindrical one, but rather the oval, offset inlet/outlet style. I'll be putting one on my 4-banger Comanche soon, although it has a pretty unique sound as is... It has no cat or resonator and an unknown stock-looking muffler and really sounds like a Go-Devil engine from a flat-fender Jeep!!! But, I can't resist a magnaflow :P!!!!!

Hmmm I found a chrome plastic ring from a Prelude shift boot, I tried it, and it doesn't seem to work. Chrome seems thicker,, maybe differrent chemistry

It works really fast for chrome plated styrene parts, but I didn't try it on other plastics. I might try it on some old chrome door panel trims to see if it works.

Hey I'm just throwing that out there; I do model kits, and a well kept secret to de-chrome plastic parts is to let them soak in Super Clean. You could always try that in the worst case scenario if you can only find chrome bezels.

Only new harness I've seen for Jeeps is from Painless for carbed YJs, and for like a grand a pop, I would pass and continue fixing my OEM wiring!

I may be a noob, but what do you mean exactly by folding? I ask because I have 3 pairs and they all have the same base with a spring so that they don't break off if someone knocks them. I have chrome mechanical remotes on my truck, gloss black manual adjust that originally came on it, and a pair of flat black remote adjustables, but there's no glass on them. I'm in Canada by the way.

That's good to know! That's kinda how it feels like in tight turns; slightly accelerating and decelerating. In what year did those CV shaft came out on the D30?

I did a 21 spline input shaft swap (long story short, it had late cut gears in it, so I found an early cut 231 and swapped its ring gear, planetary and 21 spline input shaft in the 242) and the part time does what is expected; ok in dirt, and pretty much impossible to do tight turns on pavement without the truck jerking, rocking side to side and chirping its tires.

I finally received my Novak 4x4 cable shifter to complete my 4x4 conversion. My setup is AX5, NP242 with a '96 build date, external slip yoke, Dana 44 rear axle, and Dana 30 CAD front with CAD permanently engaged. I did a test drive with the full time AWD engaged and noticed it was quite "lurchy" on low speed tight turns. Is that normal? I read that a little slack could be expected with a manual, that doesn't happen with an auto because the auto keeps a constant load. But from what I read, I didn't expect it to be that bad... Could a stretched chain amplify this? If anyone did this swap, I'd really like their input!!!

Ford's 8.8 is a good option also. I swapped a D44 in my MJ because it came with the spare parts when I bought the truck, but having also a Ford Ranger that I swapped the 7.5 for a LSD 8.8, I like the Ford axle better in terms of conception. The bearing shims are outboard for the carrier, which makes setting backlash way easier than the D44 which has the shims between the carrier and bearings, and requires setup bearings. I also like the Ford's axle bearing better than the D44's. Major con is that the 8.8 is c-clipped, and he D44 isn't.

All fixed! So to resume, yes, that was the uunderhood lamp wire plugged on the starer relay rather than ignition switch positive. That's what was causing my draw. And then, the ignitiion positive (green) was spliced directly to the starter solenoid (dark green) so basically, all the current went through the ignition switch instead of the relay every time I started... Yikes! Restored everything to how it should be and everything works perfect, which makes me wonder why it got jerry-rigged that way in the first place. Thanks a lot everyone!!!

Most body shop would use somehing like a 3-step deal (cutting compound, buffing compound, and glaze) with 3 different pads like 3M and such, really expensive but great results. However in your case, since we don't know how much paint thickness is left, I'd go more gently to start. Wash the area with water and dish soap to remove grease and wax residue first, and then, I usually get a pretty good job with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and a double-action polisher, a cheap Simoniz in my case. Better safe than sorry, especially since I'm pretty sure Jeep used single-stage paint in those days, so there's no clear to burn through; it's a color coat and primer immediatly if you bust through.

I think you nailed it Ohm; it starts with both wires disconnected! I poked around in the mess of wires and found this... Dark green wire spliced with electrical tape... I think we found the solenoid wire! Man, I just keep finding some hacked jobs on this truck; funny thing is both previous owners were brothers, early twenties, supposedly "mechanics" both of them... Thanks for the help kind sir, will keep you updated once I've sorted this out!