JustEmptyEveryPocket

I don't know about you, but my favorite item is the roof.... My walls are currently doing a great job!

If you go this route remember to get the support bracket as well. The shape changed from 1996 to 1997.

1985(?) up to 1996 cherokee fenders will work. OEM is always better than aftermarket.

I remember an old post (by Jeep Driver maybe?) referencing a 2014 (<-- guessing) Nissan Frontier. When I went and looked up some specs the Nissan leaf packs give less lift. Don't quote me, but it might be worth looking into.

I know what it will be . . .a deep dark pit into which you can quietly throw all your money and time!

and amp draw.

Hahaha, rock on!!

I installed a cherokee-in-the-fender style bottle that had two pumps like yours. My first attempt was to T the lines together, but that turned out to be a bad idea. I lost of bunch of pressure since the pump I activated just pushed fluid back into the reservoir through the other pump, leaving very little to get to the windshield. My solution was to plug one port like above and just run one pump. Then when that guy fails, I have a back-up I can swap to.

What the heck happened to CMNCHE 1 from 1998 <--> 2000? CMNCHE 2 looks like a much better statistical layout. Easy to put the best fit line on that one.

87, 4.0L, AX-15, Ford 8.8 & D30, geared at 4.10, with ~2in of lift and 31x10.5 BFGs. I average around 16mpg.

My first vehicle was a 1995 Dakota, 2WD, manual transmission, 4 cylinder engine. I flogged that thing daily for ~10 years and ~130,000 miles. Multiple times I ran it out of oil because I was an idiot kid. I also ignored the temp gauge when it would start climbing. Instead of fixing the problem I got really good at switching the truck off while driving and coasting for ~1 mile, popping the clutch, and going again. Usually that was enough for it to cool down some. It never got washed or cleaned and somehow stayed rust free. That poor thing took me all the way through the end of highschool, college, and my first year at a 'real job'. It hauled so much stuff. Several times I loaded up enough OSB or cement board that I had to slam the brakes to bring my front tires down enough to steer. Yeah, I know. I blame it on being a dumbass kid. Its amazing I'm still alive . . . The head gasket blew and I sold it for $500. I regret that every single time I think about it. I would love to have that truck back. Ironically the head gasket blew out LITERALLY on the way back from buying my first Comanche. So it was a seamless transition from Dakota to MJ. However, it still hurts me. So to finally answer your original question: I would definitely have some type of Dodge truck, most likely a first gen Dakota. However the 76-79 Dodge Warlocks are awesome.

Naw, go for a BEW TDI.

Awesome, thanks. I had seen Key, but wasn't sure how well it would fit. Appreciate the info. Sorry for the mini hijack.

Who and where?

@Eagle The info above is the exact reason I started playing around with RPM ranges. I used to think that low RPM was better for more torque and improved MPG. However, the 4.0L seems to enjoy the opposite. So thanks for posting it up!

I've been playing around with mine (4.10 gears + AX-15 + 31" tires) and found that it LIKES to run at ~3,000 rpm. Sure it can pull much lower than that, but my fuel mileage gets better as I keep RPM higher. Now a days I shift up at 2k rpm and shift down at ~3.5k or so. Lots of the county roads I drive are @ 55mph and I just leave it in 4th. So far I have gained 1-2mpg on the average tank driving this way. Plus its WAY more fun! It has to be good for the engine (clean it out or something?) by revving to 4K on a regular basis, right? Anyways TL;DR --> 4.10s for 31" tires. 4.88 for anything larger IMO.

x2 Got a kit from amazon with nicop and fittings for cheap. However, I did splurge on the MasterCool forming tool. Still made for a cheap-ish job overall, plus the experience was great.

Has anyone heard from @MiNi Beast recently? I'm worried about the guy....

@EUREKA As long as we enjoy wrenching on our vehicles and they do what we need them to right? Just figured I would throw out my opinions. Good luck with your build.

I drive lots of back county roads, pasture land, mountain roads, etc. Not sure how else to quantify it, but my truck is not just a pavement princess. No rock crawling or anything along those lines though. I might be missing something in the discussion, but to my mind once you have enough braking power to lock up your tires on flat pavement then larger rotors, bigger boosters, larger calipers, etc aren't worth the $$$. They might be good for EXTREME rally tracks where you need heat dissipation and a booster that is not vacuum dependent. But I just don't see what the gain is to justify the cost in your proposed scenarios. Not saying its not there, and if I'm wrong then please educate me. Otherwise my opinion (worth exactly what you paid for it) is to put the money into other upgrades or options. For me and my truck, I have way plenty of braking for everything I do. Your truck and situation may be entirely different. So at the end of the day its your rig to do with whatever you want and your wallet allows.

This is the route I went. Its not that hard, and I feel better knowing all my brake lines are NiCop with gravel guard. While I used the wilwood prop valve I wanted it mounted driver side of the booster. So I made my own bracket (kind of a 45* thing... I can take a pic if you want) and moved the washer bottle to the fender. I had been meaning to do that anyways. Now for the outcome: Based on people's experience with swapping in a WJ booster I had high expectations. Obviously my brakes were better than when I started, but that was because of a blown line . To me the pedal feel was exactly the same as before, and I could slow down exactly the same as before I blew out a line. Since then I realized that as soon as you have enough power to lock up the tires, bigger and better brakes won't help at all. So IMHO I would run new lines, maybe do a WJ (95/96XJ) booster, wilwood prop valve, rear disks and thats it. Anything else is just a waste of money. Good luck

If you get this figured out and want to print another one I would buy it. I have been wanting a REM for a while, but have been holding out for the clock version. This would be almost as good. Let me know!

Good for you! Good luck.

I found a set easily enough on car-part.com a few years ago. But I have never seen them in the wild.

Here is a thread that does a good job explaining the procedure AND the reasons for it. Welcome to the addiction! My advice is to check out all the Tech threads you can. Read, read, read some more. Best way to learn. Good luck!