JustEmptyEveryPocket

Could be my imagination, but something looks wrong with the button in that cap. Jesse, I would recommend you get a new cap and rotor. Make sure the contacts are brass instead of aluminum. Costs a few more $$ up front, but is usually worth it. I have used WVE with good success in the past. YMMV.

P...Please tell me you aren't actually taking them out and holding each of them to check for spark. I just . . . no words . . . At least tell me you recorded the event? Link me the video if it exists. Then please buy the inline spark checker.

If you REALLY want to know if its sparking or not, put your finger near the electrode and have a buddy turn the key while you hold the plug. You should feel a possible range of "Felt Nothing" to "Blacked Out and Pissed My Pants". So not only will you know for sure if there is spark or not, you will also know how strong of a spark you are getting.

Put some CLR in it and let it chooch. Kinda like THIS video.

A general series of rules for life: Research a little and find the correct type of lube for your application. Add what you think is plenty of lube for the job . . . at hand. Then add some more. Finally, lube is useful even when you think its not needed and almost never hurts to use anyways. I recommend sil-glyde for lubing orings, including those for your injectors.

My truck is a daily driver as well as a farm truck on my 30+ acres. Its spends 90% of its life in regular 2WD High going down the road. 9% of its life is in 2WD Low to back my small trailers around, drive over the uneven ground around my land, putting the truck in tight areas to unload grain or hay, bucking haybales out of the field, traversing the back county roads around where I live that try to rattle your fillings out (hence it really nice to pop it in a gear and forget about anything except the steering wheel and not dying), and probably other things that I am not thinking about right now. The remaining 1% of its life is is 4WD of some sort, but I only use that if 2WD Low failed me. While I could use 4WD Low for most of the above things (and therefore just lock the CAD) there would be alot of stress on the transfercase. Some of the above operations require lots of steering movement afterall. So I opted for max utility. This leads me to wonder: does anyone else use their MJs like I do?

Well I started with THIS kit. Install was fairly straightforward, and took me an afternoon. I did not drill through the firewall, instead I found a hole already in place and bought a grommet for it. Another change I did was mount the cable through the dash so that the button stuck out through the hole for the transmission power/comfort plate (plate was missing in my truck already so this was free real estate). After some adjustments it worked flawlessly for ~3 years. Eventually the outer sheath worth through and the inner cable popped out. So I removed the whole thing and went back to the vacuum operated CAD housing. However, there was no way in hell I was giving up on 2WD Low after having had the good life. To make it all work I used some vacuum hose I had, found a relay kicking around, some wire, and purchased two vacuum solenoids. Everything mounted where the 4WD indicator switch sits, pulled vacuum from the reservoir ball I relocated there, and I wired it all so that when the switch in my cab is off vacuum is applied to the unlocked direction of the CAD. When the switch it flipped it grounds the relay and activates the solenoids so that vacuum is applied to the locking side of the CAD. Again, works flawlessly (so far), has short easy to replace runs of vacuum hose, and is very easy to diagnose if something does go wrong. I understand this is not the norm and won't be the best choice for everyone. But for how I use my truck its easily worth it for 2WD Low, which I use way more often than 4WD. YMMV.

I've said it in other threads, but its worth repeating: I LOVE having 2wd Low. Getting into tight spots, backing trailers, going through rough fields, etc: I just pop it in 2wd low, select a gear, let the clutch out and forget about the throttle. My truck can idle along in 5th gear and 2wd low. Its awesome and well worth it IMO.

Sounds like you could grab two super cheap wrenches with the correct ends and a welder to create the perfect tool. Make it exactly as long as you want. But I am ok with hillbilly'ing whatever I need, which might not fit your personality.

While not exactly what you are asking for, THIS is a guaranteed universal fitment and will take care of the leak . . .

Once you have a hole in either end for the wire, get a long piece of string and a shopvac. Feed the string down the first hole, put the shopvac at the other end and turn it on. Use that string to fish/ pull the rest of your wires through.

I have used similar to Jeep Driver with decent success. I found it slightly easier if the line was lubed where I was bending it using some vaseline.

You won't know unless you ask. However, if you don't even know what to ask how will you ever learn? My comment was not a negative about asking questions. It was an extra means of finding information, which someone might not know about unless they had been exposed to it. Nothing negative was meant in anyway. So I will mimic Ghetdjc and say: apologies if I violated any guidelines. Was not my intent.

How to search: Go to google.com type: site:comancheclub.com **search string** Enjoy. For example, you want to know more about the CAD? Google "site:comancheclub.com central axle disconnect". Read 4-5 of the threads. Should give you PLENTY of information. This works well for all kinds of initial searches. Substitute other website address for other searches. Great tool.

Like everyone else, I would be interested depending on price.

Possibly a typo for "AW4". Still first thing is to check fluids and report back.

With respect Ghetdjc320, double check that price tag. THIS kit is almost as complete and 1/5 as expensive. OP, I am not sure how deep your pockets are, but shop around a little. I will agree that the Wilwood valve pictured above is great. Don't waste money on the bracket, its super easy to build your own and get better fitment around the booster.

Its called NiCopp. My local oriellys had a 25' roll in stock, but Amazon has better prices. Depends how fast you need it. Get gravel guard as well. If a job is worth doing.... I recommend getting a quality flare tool as well. It will save you hours of frustration.

I wonder if that dude has to drive everywhere he goes. The sheer weight of his cahones might make it impossible for him to walk after all.

Sudden loss of power steering, combined with how the squealing stopped means this should be the first thing to check. Don't run the truck too much without the belt as you also have no cooling and no charging.

Is the belt still there?

Core 4x4

iirc=if I recall correctly

I would do something like this. Probably find a nut that fits over the broken bolt, then fill the cavity with weld. Immediately spin it off. Easy peasy.

In my mind I would like to pair the above with THIS hoodpin kit. Any time I need to open the hood, just press two buttons simultaneously and bam!, the hood lifts itself.