JustEmptyEveryPocket

I would actually trust this more than many redneck things I have seen here in MO. Case in point (back in my early college days) I was moving between rentals and borrowed a trailer. Trailer needed a 2 5/16" ball, my truck had a 2" ball. Obviously solution: hitch it like normal, ratchet strap the tongue to the bumper, take back roads, drive slowly and hope for the best! Not proud of that at this point in my life, but it worked.

Personal opinion time: I highly recommend installing THIS system for 4x4 selection instead of just locking the CAD. I find that 2wd low range is very useful for me. My truck doesn't get wheeled, but it does truck duty things. Most often, I don't need 4wd but I do need to go slow, so 2wd low range works great. Consider backing up a trailer where you can just let the clutch out and slowly back-up, no more feathering it. Or putting your truck into a small space so you can load whatever. Its way less stressful to creep backwards instead of twitching backwards in spurts. I also drive across rough ground often, and with 2wd low I can put the truck in second and take my feet off the pedals. It crawls along at the right pace and the bumps no longer cause it to squirt forward by accidentally tapping the gas. When you have 2wd low you will see the uses for it. Another use is in bad weather I can put my truck is 4wd high, but leave the CAD disengaged and drive like normal. If I come to a patch of bad road its very easy to pull back on the knob and get instant, at speed, 4wd that engages when its supposed to. So there you go, a long winded ramble telling you how to spend your money. Take it or leave it. Good luck!

4.0L motor. The motor side is not the problem, its getting to the bolt head that is problematic. I was using 4' of combined wobble extensions and creating new yoga poses. I have taken several Renix motors and trannys apart and don't remember the bolt/ nut combo. Was just curious if it came standard. Did the 94 motors use the E12 top bolts? Because the ones I removed were regular hex heads.

Little JB Weld and that will be good as new.

This is a good idea. I would go one step further and recommend stranded cable so it acts like a regular power cord. Maybe welder cable if you can find some cheap?

I got tricked into changing an engine in a 94? Grand Cherokee for a friend. He wanted to pull the head first to see what was wrong. Turns out this engine got HOT at some point and melted a hole in the #3 piston. So pulling the block came next. I decided to leave the transmission in place since I figured that would be easier. And oh was I wrong. Here comes the question: Were bolt/ nut combos ever used in the bellhousing? On this vehicle (after I removed the obvious things like starter bolts, inspection cover bolts, etc) There were six more fasteners, two at 3:00 and 9:00, two at 1:00 and 11:00, both of which were normal from my experience removing other engines. Then there were two bolts with nuts (bolt came from the transmission side, nut was on the engine side) located between the others at about 10:30 and 1:30 position. Was anything like this factory? What should I do on re-assembly because there is NO WAY IN HELL I am ever putting bolts and nuts back. Undoing them had me using language that would make a sailor blush.... Thanks in advance.

WD40. Blue tipped wrench. Guaranteed to loosen anything!

How mechanically skilled are you? From some of your other threads and questions, I would be hesitant about advising you to rebuilding the transmission yourself. Start with the transfercase and see how you feel. The transfer case should be quite a bit easier and more straightforward than a transmission. Not saying don't do it, just go in with your eyes open. Good luck!

Its my policy that if I have read the book, I refuse to watch the movie. And if it happens that I have seen the movie, I refuse to read the book. Too many times of not following this rule has lead to great disappointment. Case and point, I have never seen the Harry Potter movies because I read the books first.

For the rear, unbolt the u-joint caps at the rear diff and pull the driveshaft out of the transfercase. Literally pull, its a splined shaft that fits over the output on the transfercase. For the front, usually you have to unbolt it at both ends and remove, but don't quote me on that one.

Lets change the question around: What are you hoping to get out of this? As in what is your rational for putting time and money into building a stroker?

My family used to heat with wood all winter long. Elm was their favorite to cut. And my dad owned a homemade (not joking or exaggerating here) 20lb monster maul. Every winter we split well over 10 cords. The bad winters we got close to 15 probably. But I am a weird guy that truly enjoys splitting wood. Nothing quite like it. BTW, for anyone that doesn't know, elm is awful to split by hand. Lot of intertwined fibers that resist being split. Hence the 20lbs of maul to 'persuade' them. I loved the days when we cut an oak, hedge, or ash.

remove bottom knee panel (not sure technical name) for easier access and better viewing. I also remove my seat (4 13mm nuts with ratcheting flexible wrench) to make laying underneath the dash easier.

Well. then to satisfy the OCD, why not cut a circle out of thin metal and weld it in? Little grinding, little high temp paint. Could look really nice.

Why would you? Its not open to the exhaust. The "pipe" you see coming off the manifold is just formed by thin metal wrapped around the exhaust header. I guess you could cut it off if you really think it would be a problem....

That is an unfortunate amount of idealism. And its completely misplaced. I work as a Professor of Mathematics. Interacting with the future leaders of this world on a daily basis leaves me in constant fear of what is coming, or because of this current pandemic, is already here. For the last 30 years (possibly longer) the public school system has been doing its best to keep children from learning logic and reasoning. The only purpose of public schools are to make a better menial worker. Ones who won't think for themselves and merely obey orders. The other compounding factor is the continual and nonstop force feeding of doom and gloom from all sources. Media is the largest contributor, but all sources play their part. This has weakened our resolve and removed our fear of death. Listen to any of the spring break interviews. This fatalistic theory has been ingrained for too long. We are now seeing the outcome of this system. Isn't it glorious? Obviously the above doesn't apply universally. But it does hold true for the vast majority of the sub 30-somethings out there.

$20 for 5 minutes of 'work'? That makes a really good hourly wage. I'm just lol'ing at you that have to have catalytic converters. Straight pipes ftw!

You went the perfect route and order on vehicles. And this helps my main point: When you are just starting out, get something functional, cheap, efficient, reliable. Then WHEN you wreck it you won't cry. Speaking in general (I know there are outliers to this idea, but again in general) no 16 year old will be able to buy a fixerupper, make it into anything worth having without screwing up something major, have the funds to actually drive it, AND not wreck it within one year of putting it on the roads. Just doesn't happen. So why waste time and money at this point in his life? Save up now, focus on the important things (school for instance), then spend it later. Don't let him be dumb with his money.

No offense meant here, but $1200 might get him a fairly rust free Geo Metro or similar. Maybe a Dodge Neon. Nothing close to what you are asking for. I would give him the following advice. Its the route I took when I was younger and its the route I would advise everyone go: --Wait and save your money for the next three years. No point in having a vehicle before you can drive. Then, find a beater. Something ugly and not popular. However, make sure it gets decent fuel economy and has low repair rates and cheap parts. Something like a 90s Ford Ranger 2wd. Or a 90s-00's Toyota 2wd. Maybe a 90's-00's Honda Accord. If you can find it with a manual transmission all the better. Then spend the next 10 years driving the hell out of it and saving your money for later when you have a real job, a garage, tooling, and have built up your skill set. This way, when (not if - when-) you wreck your first vehicle you don't cry. People dive in too deep at the start. Don't be like the sheeple. Be smart, think ahead.

What kind of skills do you have? Welding, painting, tubing, woodworking, fiberglass, etc? What tools do you have? Sounds like you have good intentions, but may lack some skills. Before jumping into modifications its time for you to watch LOTS of YouTube videos and read LOTS of forums. Not just this one, but other jeep sites for ideas and to learn methods for modification. When on YouTube don't just look for Jeep stuff. Watch some machining, welding, fabrication, etc vids as well. I recommend everything by "South Main Auto", "Bleepin Jeep", "This Old Tony", "Mattias Wandel", and "AvE" for starters. You got some learnin' to do son!

Great thought. IMHO if the truck is still stock, bolt on modifications are the way to go. Excluding things like new floors, obviously. The following is stream of conscious and, since I'm not using my wallet to pay for any of it, might be slightly over the top. Fix all the rust. Prep it well, paint it well, and you should be good to go for a long time. Start here. Once you get your interior sorted (headliner, new carpet, sound deadening materials, speakers & wire, etc) I would recommend taking everything apart again and painting the visible plastics & dyeing the new fabrics to make a uniform color scheme. Will add quite a bit of wow factor. Recover your new seats. Possibly custom with cool fabric? While you are at it include seat heaters! What about cargo management? Bedside rail caps, bed covers, headache rack, roll bars, etc. Or a few strategically placed lights? I do a fair amount of loading and unloading junk (because its a truck, it better get used like a truck) and most of this happens after work in the dark. So some flood light LEDs for extra backup lights and one flood light for the bed area has been a great upgrade for me. A krustyballer hitch would be a good thing to add. Measure your springs for sag and possible replace them. No lift needed, just get some payload and corrected stance. Personally I would not mess with the braking system, unless you are having issues. I have gone the rear disc brakes, bigger booster, new lines, different rear proportioning system and noticed absolutely no difference in stopping power/ distance. So to me its not worth the money unless there is a specific problem you are trying to fix. These trucks really are like legos. Mix and match many things from cherokees to build exactly what you want. So figure out what you will use the truck for, then get the things to make that happen. And there is NOTHING wrong with just keeping a nice running and driving stock 2wd truck. Nice paint job, new-ish interior, some time at the car-wash and it will make for a cool looking truck that has no comparison these days.

car-part.com Why not just find exactly what you want? Freight shipping was really straight forward from what I recall and total cost for me was ~$300. For a bolt in axle already set up with 4.10 gearing, why not go this route?

I would buy a bolt at your local Ace Hardware and a couple of nuts/ washers. Weld one nut on at the appropriate length and just use it. But I am cheap and far from professional.

This sums it all up very nicely. Overall, it is NOT a big deal. Groups of insecure, misinformed, and under-prepared people are forcing it into a big deal. One of the posts here said look at the numbers: Well anyone under 60 who does not have preexisting conditions has ~1% chance of death. So the vast majority of people need to just sit back, chill, and go about life as normal. Everyone needs to realize the ultimate consequence of life ---> death. It might come from tripping down the stairs, slipping on wet concrete, a car accident, cancer, or Corona (either the beer or the virus). We all gotta go sometime, so man up and meet it head on instead of cowering and hoarding in your hidey-hole. No point in dying scared and sniveling.

Do you think left handed drill bits would remove it well? As you are drilling the pin, would it pull it out of the hole? Just curious, no personal xp with it.