JustEmptyEveryPocket

Yup, this is a Jeep forum. Perfectly normal conversation from everyone here --> "you know what this kid's toy needs? Guns! But lets make them semi-safe homebrew guns." Thinking of the kids right there.

When did rear discs replace rear drums? Would make sense if it was around the same time they went to a dual diaphragm booster. Anyways, apologies for the highjack here OP. Let us know if your wife lets you work on your jeep next week.

Did you ever put a testlight on it? You can use a homebrew testlight by soldering a couple of wires to a bulb and probing the connector that way. Like said above, a multimeter can fool you into thinking you have power when you really don't. THIS is a great video for DIY testlights. SouthMainAuto is an awesome YouTuber for auto repair. I like watching all of his videos.

@MiNi Beast I think he has something close to what you are talking about.

I have to say that I disagree with this statement. My trucks brakes (stock) were fine until a rear line ruptured in a panic stop. It still locked up my tires and got me stopped before an accident, but it was time to replace things. Since it was apart I put in the "upgrade" dual diaphragm booster from a WJ. To date I have noticed NO improvement over stock braking. If everything is working correctly the truck should lock the tires up if you put enough force on the brake pedal. If the tires lock up then adding in a better brake booster changes NOTHING. So why bother? OP - Fix the stop brake issue, but don't worry about any supposed upgrades. I agree with the above sentiments, most likely you have a bad booster. Check back and let us know whats wrong.

Personally every gas powered engine I have gets Marvel's Mystery Oil added to it. Even my 5 gallon jugs get treated with it. Never had a fuel problem either. Even year old (MMO treated) gas seems to burn just fine. Might just be snake-oil, but its cheap insurance and peace of mind for me. YMMV.

Yea, I did mine in the truck with the radiator and everything in place. I bought a cheap seal puller and cut the handle so I could get it in place. Still OP, I recommend you keep your fingers crossed and hope the seal is dry.

Made me think about replacing the crank seal while you are in there. If its weeping change it. If its dry leave it alone.

To add to OldManComanche: make sure to pull the washer as well as the center bolt, otherwise you will crank the hell out of the HB puller and wonder why its not coming off (don't ask me how I know that. Its embarrassing how long that took me to figure out.). Also make sure you get a HB install tool. Otherwise its a super simple job, all things considered. Good luck!

I'm with Pete here. Get yourself a BEW TDI and AX-15. Move the small engine forward a good bit to keep access to the tandem pump, which gives space for rear driveshaft. Diesel for torque + 1st gear + low range = crawling monster. High rpm range hp (thank you German engineering) + broad torque range + 5th gear = great pavement princess. Unique (-ish?) Great mpg compared to all other options I know of. Model your swap on THIS kit or do more of a build your own based on THIS kit.

Case in point, top three threads from "site:comancheclub.com bed removal":: Start reading!

A good first step for any comanche related questions you have is to go to Google and type in "site:comancheclub.com *what you want to find*" (without the "" and ** btw). This limits the search results to comancheclub.com. Great way to find threads directly related to your question. Sometimes the OPs even come back and put in the answers!!

That cable crosses to an 88 Comanche with 4.0L engine. Are you sure its correct for your year, engine, transmission (or transfer case)?

You actually use 3rd gear? I thought it was there for show only. Rev to 4k in 2nd gear, hop it over into 4th and cruise on . . . .

My version of this would do something like: "If you've never patted your dashboard and muttered positive encouragements, then obviously you never drove a 4 cylinder through the mountains with a strong headwind" That was a bad day . . . .

My first thought was that it is a kid's temper tantrum deterrent. "If you are gonna throw a fit you can ride in the back seat!!" In fact this design might be great for long drives with the wife.......

My 4.0L manual transmission had 4.10s in it when I got it. So you can't know for sure unless you jack up a tire and count driveshaft spins or remove the cover and count teeth.

dang, beat me to it Pete

Jack up one tire, make a mark on the tire and fender (chalk works well), make another marker on the driveshaft and pinion snout. Then rotate the tire through two full revolutions counting how many times the driveshaft spins around. This will give you a rough ratio. The only options (unless aftermarket work has been done) are 3.07, 3.55, and 4.10. Maybe 3.73 was an option but I personally have not come across that one. Or pull the cover and count teeth. This will give you the exact answer.

Anything Comanche specific is worth money. From the b-pillars and back. This includes interior trim pieces, seats/ brackets, beds, fuel tank flaps & associated pieces, beds, tailgates, tailights, rear windows, rear flares, bed covers, etc. Not telling you to go back and get it all, but it is rare and harder to find with every passing year.

I'm just guessing here, but when I changed engines in my truck (factory stick shift) I used an engine from an automatic donor. After pulling both engines I noticed the auto's crank had a huge diameter opening. Went back and checked the og engine and there was a second ... bushing? ... besides the pilot bearing in the crank. I had to pull out both pieces and change them over to the new engine. So I bet whoever swapped stuff last time didn't grab the right bushings from the original items and decided to use a lathe to turn down a hunk of brass that would work. Again, just guessing, but thats what it looks like to me.

Refer to my first post then. Buy the tank without a baffle and put in a cherokee sending unit. Done and done.

Imagine reading this early morning, before coffee, and the picture didn't load. So much violence!

For a tank I have used Spectra JP5A or JP5B, can't remember which one. One of them has the baffle in the bottom and one does not. I ordered both through Oriellys and kept the one I wanted. Technically you can still get the correct fuel pump. What you are talking about is the entire fuel pump & fuel sender combo. Four options here, as I see it: Buy the tank without the baffle in it, and use the Cherokee sending unit. No problems there, unless fuel slosh becomes an issue Buy the tank with the baffle and get the fuel pump only. Retrofit the pump into your current sending unit. Check the thread out HERE. Buy the tank with the baffle and get the fuel pump & sender unit that is Comanche correct from MTS Company. Check the thread out HERE. Go full custom and do something else awesome. That is the route I went. Personally I got tired of pulling the fuel tank because of crappy replacement pumps so I redid EVERYTHING and went with an external pump. Some like it, some hate it. Do what works best for you and your wallet.

Did you find the bolt that holds the speedo cable by the driver side control arm? If you remove it from there you can push way more of the cable up into the cab, thereby making the backside of the cluster much easier to see and get to.